Drove my 83 to the grocery store this morning. After coming back out, I get in the car and push the clutch in right before I start the car. I hear kind of a "pop" noise. The noise seem to come from the pedal area I think. I put the car in reverse and let out the clutch like I normally would and the travel is extremely reduced before engagement. I would guess I let off maybe an inch or two and the thing engages. Drove it home like this (not very far) and noticed that it seemed to also be a little more tricky going into 2nd on a downshift.

I honestly haven't looked under the car yet, but will this afternoon. I did a little searching on here and so far wonder about the obvious (clutch adjustment, helper spring, or maybe this stop block thing I read about that is on the pedal).

Can anyone shorten my list up here given that is was such an "all of a sudden" failure?

Thanks,
Shane

 

Look at the helper spring by the heat exchanger on the driver's side. Also check the holder bracket mounted on the transaxle itself. This was a white-metal cast bracket on mine & broke. I had a custom one from steel made, but the weld on that one broke also; I had a replacement sent out from PartsHeaven a couple of years ago before they started manufacturing aftermarket reproductions.

IIRC, the helper spring's no longer available??

Hope this helps.

 

Well,

got in a little closer to my problems. I removed the carpet and floorboard. Pushed the clutch in to the floor and watched the likage on the opposite side (by accelerator) move with it. It seems to react with the action of the pedal, so I am assuming (unless I'm missing something) that my roll pin and pedal cluster are OK. The "return spring" on the clutch pedal is also in one piece. I had my son push the pedal in and out while I looked under the car at the assy on the tranny. It seems that all the parts of that "horseshoe" and assy are moving with the clutch pedal action as well.

One other piece of info that I think is pertinent maybe from my further reading: My clutch pedal seems to be coming back up with no problems after being depressed to floor. It does not actually rest on the mechanical stop on the assy, but about a 1/4 inch from it.

Is this sounding more like a fork issue, or is there something I am still missing here?

 

I rechecked things a few minutes ago and I was wrong before. The pedal DOES NOT come back up very far at all, maybe half way. Not a lot of tension on it going down either. I may be missing something on these springs, but afraid to get under the car until I can put it on stands.

The other thing I did not notice after getting it home: I can NOT get it in any gear.

I guess I need to get under their and check for the 25mm on the assy at the tranny, and inspect the cable well for obvious signs.

 

The omega spring under the car should have three "leafs," but usually when it breaks you will also have a very heavy pedal motion. If the pressure required to push in the pedal is unchanged, the most common failure is the cable. When the cable breaks it usually will fail at the bowden tube/firewall connection, so you won't be able to see that. If you're going to attempt this repair it will go much easier if you have a proper shop manual. How many miles are on your car, and on the clutch?

 

If you determine it's the clutch cable, and someone can confirm the cable's the same 84 to 83, I have a spare (new) cable I bought awhile back - never used it, sitting on the shelf, and can overnight to you for Thurs. arrival if you need one ASAP. Not looking to dump the part or anything, but I think I saw you have an event coming up soon. Let me know if you need it. I'm on the east coast, so before 7am tomorrow would be best.

 

Pete,

I just spoke with the previous mechanic to verify the writing on my records: the clutch disc was replaced about 20k miles ago during the topend. Oh, and I have both the SC Bentley manual and Wayne Dempsey's book. I think Wayne's book said this was a "1 hour" job. If I double or triple that for inexperience, would that be about right. Also, I assume since he says 1 hour, that means no engine drop?

Fred, let me see about the compatibility and I will get back with you. I do not need it overnighted. I'll just have to dust off my truck for a week or two.

Thanks guys

 

2.5-3 hours for inexperience is just about right! Also, there are things to check in addition to merely replacing the cable. You will probably have to replace the clevis pin and its bushing, and you will have to check your pedal shaft bushings, omega spring, etc.

Tech Tip: DO NOT use an aftermarket cable! They are easy to recognize; they will say "Made in Western Germany" in white letters on the bowden tube. O.E. cables do not have that marking, and are far superior. With only 20K miles since work, I'll "assume" that your T.O. bearing and fork are OK.

FYI: All '77-86 non-Turbo 911s use the same cable.

 

Shane -
Got your email. Since you're not looking for it ASAP, it'll be easier to just have one sent out from Pelican / etc. (which is what I was going to suggest on "cost of mine" - buy one & have them ship to me & I'll overnight mine to you). Wasn't out to make a buck, just to lend a hand to a lister in need.

Not looking to be without it since I know I'll need it someday, but if it would have helped you I'd have sent it. If you change your mind / Pelican's out etc, let me know.

 

Thanks Fred... I will let you know.

Pete,

I put a block of wood behind the linkage up by the cluster and mashed on the clutch carefully - the roll pin seems to be holding OK. I guess it is time to order the cable and try that first eh?

 

Ok, I have to ask a stupid question. If the clutch cable broke, how was he able to drive the car at all, as he indicated he did?

 

Normal breakage occurs with the failure of just a few strands of the entire cable. This causes a symptom the same as radical cable stretching would, that is, clutch engagement very close to the floor. Usually the remainder of still-attached strands will allow you to limp to a safe place before they also break.

 

Looks like I have a date with my car this Saturday... I will keep you posted as to whether it was cable or not...

 

Yahoo... clutch cable was the culprit. Big thank you to Jay Freels for helping through my first one and having an extra cable on hand. My cable had about a 3/16 section of the cable that separated from the tranny side. Here are some pics....

 

Pete:

I just bought a cable from Pelican and it is said to be a Gemo brand on their website. It does have "Gemo" and "Germany" in white letters on the bowden tube. Is that the aftermarket unit you're warning us about? What is an acceptable cable? Porsche only?