Let it warm up or drive it right away?
10-05-2007, 10:17 AM
#62
Burning Brakes
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...just to throw a spanner in the works as it were, whats everyone's procedure for the reverse?
i.e. after you've been out and driven it hard for a fair bit. do you let it idle for a bit or switch it straight off - or doesn't it really matter?
i usually let it idle a bit, check the oil level manually and then top up (or not) and then switch off and put a cover over the car.
I'm often paranoid this cover will catch fire from the heat off the license plate panel and engine lid, or the cover will trap moisture with the car still hot. (maybe this is a little OT)
i.e. after you've been out and driven it hard for a fair bit. do you let it idle for a bit or switch it straight off - or doesn't it really matter?
i usually let it idle a bit, check the oil level manually and then top up (or not) and then switch off and put a cover over the car.
I'm often paranoid this cover will catch fire from the heat off the license plate panel and engine lid, or the cover will trap moisture with the car still hot. (maybe this is a little OT)
This is my exact routine....But I will also give the car a once over for bugs and grime after shutting down before putting the cover on. I am **** about my girl. Like today I wanna taker her out to pick my daughter up at school (my weekend), but we are on our second wave of lovebugs here in Florida....so it will more than likely sit this run out.
03-12-2008, 04:50 AM
#63
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: CA
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03-12-2008, 12:32 PM
#64
Addict
Things have changed with my car. I used to have a really cold dog at start up that didn't want to move. Now I have a car that is ready to go at a moments notice. what's the differance? What changed?
Kendall 90w w/lsd add. (tranny)
K&N air filter / Fabspeed air box cover
distributor cap / rotor
Fabspeed cat bypass / O2 sensor
Beru blue plug wires
Maxhpkit chip
Bosch plugs
valve adjustment
I did it all myself at a snails pace for just over a grand. Now, I have a new car that doesn't know it's cold.
Kendall 90w w/lsd add. (tranny)
K&N air filter / Fabspeed air box cover
distributor cap / rotor
Fabspeed cat bypass / O2 sensor
Beru blue plug wires
Maxhpkit chip
Bosch plugs
valve adjustment
I did it all myself at a snails pace for just over a grand. Now, I have a new car that doesn't know it's cold.
Last edited by Amber Gramps; 03-12-2008 at 02:41 PM. Reason: O2 sensor
03-14-2008, 01:18 PM
#66
Instructor
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: VT 1985 Carrera 3.2
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This is a valuable thread with lots of opinions based on experience. At the same time, and maybe I've missed them, I don't see any opinions formed on hard data. Specifically, I'm looking for an answer to GeneralTso's question that is based on experience AND unbiased, rigorously collected, objective data.
What I'm hoping for is an SAE or similarly reputable study that collected and evaluated the necessary data. Something with a controlled environment with quantifiable measurements of resulting wear. Porsche might have the budget to collect this data and maybe that is how they came up with the ~"start and drive immediately" recommendation. But I would not say that Porsche is unbiased since they may give maximum fuel economy priority over car longevity.
I have lots of respect for people who maintained and operated many air cooled Porsches over many years. And when they take time to share their knowledge here, I benefit from it mightily. So I am grateful to be able to read their advice and use it if it is the best information available. But in my opinion, the best answer to GeneralTso's question will be something like: "my experience from lots of Porsches over lots of time is... and the following SAE papers support my opinion:..."
What I'm hoping for is an SAE or similarly reputable study that collected and evaluated the necessary data. Something with a controlled environment with quantifiable measurements of resulting wear. Porsche might have the budget to collect this data and maybe that is how they came up with the ~"start and drive immediately" recommendation. But I would not say that Porsche is unbiased since they may give maximum fuel economy priority over car longevity.
I have lots of respect for people who maintained and operated many air cooled Porsches over many years. And when they take time to share their knowledge here, I benefit from it mightily. So I am grateful to be able to read their advice and use it if it is the best information available. But in my opinion, the best answer to GeneralTso's question will be something like: "my experience from lots of Porsches over lots of time is... and the following SAE papers support my opinion:..."
03-14-2008, 01:38 PM
#67
Rennlist Member
This is a valuable thread with lots of opinions based on experience. At the same time, and maybe I've missed them, I don't see any opinions formed on hard data. Specifically, I'm looking for an answer to GeneralTso's question that is based on experience AND unbiased, rigorously collected, objective data.
What I'm hoping for is an SAE or similarly reputable study that collected and evaluated the necessary data. Something with a controlled environment with quantifiable measurements of resulting wear. Porsche might have the budget to collect this data and maybe that is how they came up with the ~"start and drive immediately" recommendation. But I would not say that Porsche is unbiased since they may give maximum fuel economy priority over car longevity.
I have lots of respect for people who maintained and operated many air cooled Porsches over many years. And when they take time to share their knowledge here, I benefit from it mightily. So I am grateful to be able to read their advice and use it if it is the best information available. But in my opinion, the best answer to GeneralTso's question will be something like: "my experience from lots of Porsches over lots of time is... and the following SAE papers support my opinion:..."
What I'm hoping for is an SAE or similarly reputable study that collected and evaluated the necessary data. Something with a controlled environment with quantifiable measurements of resulting wear. Porsche might have the budget to collect this data and maybe that is how they came up with the ~"start and drive immediately" recommendation. But I would not say that Porsche is unbiased since they may give maximum fuel economy priority over car longevity.
I have lots of respect for people who maintained and operated many air cooled Porsches over many years. And when they take time to share their knowledge here, I benefit from it mightily. So I am grateful to be able to read their advice and use it if it is the best information available. But in my opinion, the best answer to GeneralTso's question will be something like: "my experience from lots of Porsches over lots of time is... and the following SAE papers support my opinion:..."
03-14-2008, 02:05 PM
#68
Rennlist Member
I don't use a cover on my car, but if I did, I'd wait until the car cooled just a bit before putting the cover over the engine compartment, but that's just me. No "idle down" required unless you have a 930, and have really been pushing it, then the conventional wisdom is to let the turbo cool just a bit before shutting down.
Keith
'88 CE coupe
Keith
'88 CE coupe
03-14-2008, 02:49 PM
#69
Drifting
After I pull into the garage I do not engage the handbrake (hot rotors) and just leave it in gear after I turn off the motor.
Then I prop open the decklid to let the heat escape, extends the life of the wiring and hoses.
John
Then I prop open the decklid to let the heat escape, extends the life of the wiring and hoses.
John
03-14-2008, 03:49 PM
#70
Rennlist Member
I have seen some classic cars built with an electric pre-oiler and electric water pumps (along with electric cooling fans) that turn on for 1-2 minutes after the engine is shut off. The pre-oiler supposedly prevents sludge (BS in my view), and claims to eliminate hot spots on the pistons/valves after shut off. It's true that most of the time, the water-cooled engines do get warmer after you shut it off, but I can't believe that it would make a huge difference on long-term ownership.
A pre-oiler for pre-startup is another story, though...
A pre-oiler for pre-startup is another story, though...
03-14-2008, 06:05 PM
#71
The real question is what level of proof do you require.
The level of proof of such a study is extremely expensive. Unless you have several $100,000 bills to toss into the kitty, I think you are doomed to go thru life without that knowledge.
The level of proof of such a study is extremely expensive. Unless you have several $100,000 bills to toss into the kitty, I think you are doomed to go thru life without that knowledge.
03-14-2008, 08:03 PM
#72
Instructor
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randywebb,
I don't want to put 1/1000 of that in the kitty so I probably am SOL. : )
Seriously though, if the ideal information doesn't exist, then I'm willing to bet that the next best thing is already in this thread. And that is fine with me. At the same time, I still think it is okay to ask the question.
I don't want to put 1/1000 of that in the kitty so I probably am SOL. : )
Seriously though, if the ideal information doesn't exist, then I'm willing to bet that the next best thing is already in this thread. And that is fine with me. At the same time, I still think it is okay to ask the question.
03-14-2008, 09:01 PM
#73
Burning Brakes
My CIS never seems rich after warm up, and my final rev is for the double-clutch into first gear as I pull into my driveway.
I idle through the neighborhoods to my house trying to look as innocent as a 44 year old kid can look while concealing an evil grin.
On the warmup side; I don't touch the throttle until the car has idled 35-45 seconds as I back out of my garage and into the street. Then I practice using the absolute least throttle possible up to 3000 RPM in each gear for a couple miles. My exhaust is so loud that I avoid using much throttle anytime there is a pedestrian or neighborhood in sight. The next few miles I take it to around 4000 RPMs on light throttle until the temp passes the 170 mark.
I cringe when I have to stop on a steep incline while the oil is still cold. Unfortunately in my efforts to ease out with very little throttle I've stalled on more of these takeoffs than I should. When I stall I feel terrible for a few minutes. Once the shame passes it motivates me to practice more often.
I idle through the neighborhoods to my house trying to look as innocent as a 44 year old kid can look while concealing an evil grin.
On the warmup side; I don't touch the throttle until the car has idled 35-45 seconds as I back out of my garage and into the street. Then I practice using the absolute least throttle possible up to 3000 RPM in each gear for a couple miles. My exhaust is so loud that I avoid using much throttle anytime there is a pedestrian or neighborhood in sight. The next few miles I take it to around 4000 RPMs on light throttle until the temp passes the 170 mark.
I cringe when I have to stop on a steep incline while the oil is still cold. Unfortunately in my efforts to ease out with very little throttle I've stalled on more of these takeoffs than I should. When I stall I feel terrible for a few minutes. Once the shame passes it motivates me to practice more often.
