Diesel or electric 911?
09-08-2008, 02:21 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The timing seems right
It is time to resurrect the search for a good electric conversion kit that fits a 911.
My engine is fine, but it would be great to find a donor car and convert it to electric; maybe one with fiberglass fenders that some here would call a "FrankenPorsche."
My engine is fine, but it would be great to find a donor car and convert it to electric; maybe one with fiberglass fenders that some here would call a "FrankenPorsche."
09-08-2008, 02:38 AM
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Sold on E-bay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...rget=Gadget_KW
1973 Porsche 911 T|Research 1973 Porsche
Porsche : 911 Item number: 120283651057
Winning bid: US $10,100.00
No payments until 2009 - new eBay MasterCard
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ended: Jul-25-08 14:00:00 PDT
Shipping: Buyer responsible for vehicle pick-up or shipping. Vehicle shipping quote is available.
Sells to: United States
Item location: Seattle, WA, United States
History: 44 bids
Winning bidder: irina2489( 358)
1973 Porsche 911 T Print Version
Title: 1973 PORSCHE 911 T Electric Conversion
Mileage: 87,837 miles
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle Information
VIN: 9113101656 | Get the Vehicle History Report
Inspection: Order an independent inspection
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Vehicle title: Clear (most titles)
Condition: Used
For sale by: Private seller
Features
Body type: Coupe Engine: Unspecified Exterior color: Silver
Transmission: Manual Fuel type: Electric Interior color: --
Description (revised)
At auction, a 1973 Porsche 911 T that I converted to electric drive. I ordered the car new on July 19, 1972, and took delivery on March 19, 1973. It was my principle transporation until 1988. I stopped driving it entirely in 1990 when it would no longer pass the emissions test. The mileage was 87480. I started the electric conversion officially in November of 1993. The car was back on the road in December of 1996. After 357 miles as an electric, the car stopped going on August 8, 1999. The batteries would no longer hold a charge. The complete story can be found on my Electric Porsche website. Details are in the Project Diary. The auction includes the original owner's manual and tool kit, a 6-volume Porsche workshop manual set for the car and documentation related to the conversion. Also included, if you want it, the battery loader (see picture on website).
The car has been sitting in my garage since it stopped and is, in my opinion, in generally good condition except for the battery racks and other areas damaged by acid leaks from the batteries. The acid does not appear to have caused serious damage, but the areas are rusty or corroded.
As part of the electric conversion, the car was repaired and restored. See the diary for all the details. I did some of this work myself. For example, the bottom of the right battery box had rusted out. I made a new bottom and inexpertly welded it in place (diary 5/26/94). I replaced the steel wheels with alloy wheels (diary 8/19/96) from a 1972 Porsche 911 that I found at a wrecking yard. I also repaired and upgraded the seats (diary 8/19/96) with parts from this same car. The body work was done by a nearby well-established and reputable body shop. Cost and access— the car had to be towed to and from— were a consideration. There were no major problems, but a number of dents were removed, I don't remember how many, and the tail pipe cutout was covered over. They also repainted the car (diary 4/17/96). I don't think the paint job was up to the Porsche standard, but it looked pretty good to me. The original paint had failed after years of sitting in a parking lot while I was at work. In my opinion, they matched the original color quite well. They also recovered the seats with covers I got from Tweeks.
Problems: I tried to get pictures to illustrate the problems. Some of the problems are discussed in the diary. Here are some highlights and things I noticed while readying the car for auction.
The brake disks are rusty. Consequently, the wheels don't roll easily. This condition was present when I started the conversion project. The local Porsche dealer told me that driving the car would remove the rust. This it did, but there was still a problem with brake drag. I have been told this was because the caliper seals on the brakes had become stiff with age. I was planning to replace the seals when the end came.
I don't believe there are any serious rust problems. There was a problem with rust inside the doors coming out through the paint. This was "fixed" when the car was repainted, but there are now two spots on the left door that look like rust. I did do some antirust work inside both doors (diary 8/15/96, 8/29/96). I also repaired a number of rust spots at various places around the car. See the diary for more information.
There are dents here and there about the car. There's a big dent on the lip of the front compartment I made when removing the battery box and rack. There's a shallow crease in the chrome bezel of the right headlight. There's a shallow dent below the letter "R" on the rear lid and another on the top of the bumper below the right-side vent grille. There are probably others.
There are also shallow scratches here and there in the paint. There are some dings too. I didn't see any serious ones. I got four pictures of some typical ones, but they didn't photograph well.
While replacing the cowl seals, I did some damage to the paint in two spots on the left fender (diary 8/17/96) and on the right fender (diary 8/27/96) where the fenders join the body near the windshield. The spots have been touched up. The seals were replaced because the body shop had painted over the originals.
The exterior chrome has suffered varying degrees of deterioration.
Little work was done on the interior. The pop-out door pockets have been "repaired" and work properly (diary 8/21/96, 8/31/96), but their chrome trim and "leather" covering are gone. The ceiling liner has stains near the rear window. There's a hole in the floor mat to the right of the gas pedal. The driver's side front floor mat is doubled. A new mat lies atop the "repaired" original mat. There's some adhesive in between. There's some corrosion on the seat rails. The right seatbelt is missing the plastic "retainer" that keeps it from winding up too far.
The pneumatic struts don't hold the front lid up even though they were replaced to fix this problem (diary 8/10/96). They also make funny sounds when in motion.
The internal stop of the right door is broken (diary 8/29/96). The door opens "too" far. The latch is sluggish and has to be squeezed hard to open the door.
The windshield-mounted rear view mirror fell off one day. The mount was later reattached (diary 11/26/96), but the adhesive used wasn't black like the original. I don't remember the details.
In 2003, I attempted to remove the the battery racks for clean up and repair. The front rack came out, but the right front attachment bolt and rivet nut is now missing. On the rear rack, the rivet nuts of the rear outside bolts did not hold so the bolts were drilled out. The four allen-head flathead bolts at the rear inside of the rack could not be removed. Attempts to drill them out failed. I don't remember, but I think the engine compartment rack came out without problems. The diary is not clear.
One oddity: The door locks were replaced long ago so there are two keys. A red key for the doors and a black one for the ignition.
The car is sold as is without warranty or guarantee of serviceability. Buyer acknowledges that the electric conversion modifications were done by a non-expert in both design and execution and accepts any liability consequential to the use of the modifications.
Payment Terms: A deposit of $1,000 is required by PayPal within 48 hours of close of auction. Final payment is required within 7 days of close of auction. PayPal is preferred. Bank wire transfer is also acceptable. Cash, in person, at my bank, is acceptable. No other form of payment will be accepted.
That's it. Additional pictures, as well as the ones below, can be found here in full resolution. The diary, as a single file, is here. Look at the pictures. Read the diary. Contact me if you have any questions. Thanks for looking!
1973 Porsche 911 T|Research 1973 Porsche
Porsche : 911 Item number: 120283651057
Winning bid: US $10,100.00
No payments until 2009 - new eBay MasterCard
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ended: Jul-25-08 14:00:00 PDT
Shipping: Buyer responsible for vehicle pick-up or shipping. Vehicle shipping quote is available.
Sells to: United States
Item location: Seattle, WA, United States
History: 44 bids
Winning bidder: irina2489( 358)
1973 Porsche 911 T Print Version
Title: 1973 PORSCHE 911 T Electric Conversion
Mileage: 87,837 miles
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle Information
VIN: 9113101656 | Get the Vehicle History Report
Inspection: Order an independent inspection
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Vehicle title: Clear (most titles)
Condition: Used
For sale by: Private seller
Features
Body type: Coupe Engine: Unspecified Exterior color: Silver
Transmission: Manual Fuel type: Electric Interior color: --
Description (revised)
At auction, a 1973 Porsche 911 T that I converted to electric drive. I ordered the car new on July 19, 1972, and took delivery on March 19, 1973. It was my principle transporation until 1988. I stopped driving it entirely in 1990 when it would no longer pass the emissions test. The mileage was 87480. I started the electric conversion officially in November of 1993. The car was back on the road in December of 1996. After 357 miles as an electric, the car stopped going on August 8, 1999. The batteries would no longer hold a charge. The complete story can be found on my Electric Porsche website. Details are in the Project Diary. The auction includes the original owner's manual and tool kit, a 6-volume Porsche workshop manual set for the car and documentation related to the conversion. Also included, if you want it, the battery loader (see picture on website).
The car has been sitting in my garage since it stopped and is, in my opinion, in generally good condition except for the battery racks and other areas damaged by acid leaks from the batteries. The acid does not appear to have caused serious damage, but the areas are rusty or corroded.
As part of the electric conversion, the car was repaired and restored. See the diary for all the details. I did some of this work myself. For example, the bottom of the right battery box had rusted out. I made a new bottom and inexpertly welded it in place (diary 5/26/94). I replaced the steel wheels with alloy wheels (diary 8/19/96) from a 1972 Porsche 911 that I found at a wrecking yard. I also repaired and upgraded the seats (diary 8/19/96) with parts from this same car. The body work was done by a nearby well-established and reputable body shop. Cost and access— the car had to be towed to and from— were a consideration. There were no major problems, but a number of dents were removed, I don't remember how many, and the tail pipe cutout was covered over. They also repainted the car (diary 4/17/96). I don't think the paint job was up to the Porsche standard, but it looked pretty good to me. The original paint had failed after years of sitting in a parking lot while I was at work. In my opinion, they matched the original color quite well. They also recovered the seats with covers I got from Tweeks.
Problems: I tried to get pictures to illustrate the problems. Some of the problems are discussed in the diary. Here are some highlights and things I noticed while readying the car for auction.
The brake disks are rusty. Consequently, the wheels don't roll easily. This condition was present when I started the conversion project. The local Porsche dealer told me that driving the car would remove the rust. This it did, but there was still a problem with brake drag. I have been told this was because the caliper seals on the brakes had become stiff with age. I was planning to replace the seals when the end came.
I don't believe there are any serious rust problems. There was a problem with rust inside the doors coming out through the paint. This was "fixed" when the car was repainted, but there are now two spots on the left door that look like rust. I did do some antirust work inside both doors (diary 8/15/96, 8/29/96). I also repaired a number of rust spots at various places around the car. See the diary for more information.
There are dents here and there about the car. There's a big dent on the lip of the front compartment I made when removing the battery box and rack. There's a shallow crease in the chrome bezel of the right headlight. There's a shallow dent below the letter "R" on the rear lid and another on the top of the bumper below the right-side vent grille. There are probably others.
There are also shallow scratches here and there in the paint. There are some dings too. I didn't see any serious ones. I got four pictures of some typical ones, but they didn't photograph well.
While replacing the cowl seals, I did some damage to the paint in two spots on the left fender (diary 8/17/96) and on the right fender (diary 8/27/96) where the fenders join the body near the windshield. The spots have been touched up. The seals were replaced because the body shop had painted over the originals.
The exterior chrome has suffered varying degrees of deterioration.
Little work was done on the interior. The pop-out door pockets have been "repaired" and work properly (diary 8/21/96, 8/31/96), but their chrome trim and "leather" covering are gone. The ceiling liner has stains near the rear window. There's a hole in the floor mat to the right of the gas pedal. The driver's side front floor mat is doubled. A new mat lies atop the "repaired" original mat. There's some adhesive in between. There's some corrosion on the seat rails. The right seatbelt is missing the plastic "retainer" that keeps it from winding up too far.
The pneumatic struts don't hold the front lid up even though they were replaced to fix this problem (diary 8/10/96). They also make funny sounds when in motion.
The internal stop of the right door is broken (diary 8/29/96). The door opens "too" far. The latch is sluggish and has to be squeezed hard to open the door.
The windshield-mounted rear view mirror fell off one day. The mount was later reattached (diary 11/26/96), but the adhesive used wasn't black like the original. I don't remember the details.
In 2003, I attempted to remove the the battery racks for clean up and repair. The front rack came out, but the right front attachment bolt and rivet nut is now missing. On the rear rack, the rivet nuts of the rear outside bolts did not hold so the bolts were drilled out. The four allen-head flathead bolts at the rear inside of the rack could not be removed. Attempts to drill them out failed. I don't remember, but I think the engine compartment rack came out without problems. The diary is not clear.
One oddity: The door locks were replaced long ago so there are two keys. A red key for the doors and a black one for the ignition.
The car is sold as is without warranty or guarantee of serviceability. Buyer acknowledges that the electric conversion modifications were done by a non-expert in both design and execution and accepts any liability consequential to the use of the modifications.
Payment Terms: A deposit of $1,000 is required by PayPal within 48 hours of close of auction. Final payment is required within 7 days of close of auction. PayPal is preferred. Bank wire transfer is also acceptable. Cash, in person, at my bank, is acceptable. No other form of payment will be accepted.
That's it. Additional pictures, as well as the ones below, can be found here in full resolution. The diary, as a single file, is here. Look at the pictures. Read the diary. Contact me if you have any questions. Thanks for looking!
