My paintscratch.com experience
08-13-2007, 03:13 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
My paintscratch.com experience
Well, 24 years started catching up with my 83 Ruby Red cabriolet. And then I picked up a serious scratch somewhere - maddening... a 6 inch long booger that went through to the primer!
I bit the bullit and decided to try paintscratch.com. I oredred their full repair kit including spray can and paint pen. The first batch was mailed to me and my excitement dimmed when it turned out to be way to light - more of a purple color. I soon found out from many who replied to me that this seems to be fairly common and the second batch was almost always perfect. To paintscratch.com's credit, they are very easy to deal with. I simply sent a small piece of metal back with the paint sprayed on from what they sent and 10 days later, I had a new batch of paint.
Got the new batch of paint in today...
The new paint seems to be spot on. It really is kind of weird in a way... I had a lot of people reply to say the second attempt was good. Not sure why that happens, or how often for that matter - I am sure we are a mere fraction of their customer base!
Anyway, very happy with the new batch! I will post pictures later on... that is if I can find a spot I have not touched up yet. The front part of my hood was starting to get really chipped up. After I got going, it was hard to stop, but I want to try to take a before shot. I still need to apply the clear, followed by wetsand and buff. I also need to respray my headlight trim rings.
Question for the paint experts. I think I know the answer but would like a confirmation before I get carried away (grandpa is no longer watching over my shoulder!). I planned to wetsand the areas of touch up with 1000. Then rubbing compound and polish, etc... I have a lot of touch up on the front of the hood. I am a little sheepish about wetsanding the whole area, or even the whole hood. I think it is OK to do this, but please tell me if I am right or wrong, or should do somsthing different. I would hate to go from OK to a lot worse...
One note from my experience is this: I will not do the paint pens again! I do not working with them, and the worst part is that they tend to drop paint every once in a while when you least expect it. Very frustrating and potentially irreversible if in the wrong spot! I will stick with the little "brush-in-a-bottle" for future jobs. It could very well be my technique used that caused the problem, but I cannot see any other way to use them, except like I did.
Thanks...
I bit the bullit and decided to try paintscratch.com. I oredred their full repair kit including spray can and paint pen. The first batch was mailed to me and my excitement dimmed when it turned out to be way to light - more of a purple color. I soon found out from many who replied to me that this seems to be fairly common and the second batch was almost always perfect. To paintscratch.com's credit, they are very easy to deal with. I simply sent a small piece of metal back with the paint sprayed on from what they sent and 10 days later, I had a new batch of paint.
Got the new batch of paint in today...
The new paint seems to be spot on. It really is kind of weird in a way... I had a lot of people reply to say the second attempt was good. Not sure why that happens, or how often for that matter - I am sure we are a mere fraction of their customer base!
Anyway, very happy with the new batch! I will post pictures later on... that is if I can find a spot I have not touched up yet. The front part of my hood was starting to get really chipped up. After I got going, it was hard to stop, but I want to try to take a before shot. I still need to apply the clear, followed by wetsand and buff. I also need to respray my headlight trim rings.
Question for the paint experts. I think I know the answer but would like a confirmation before I get carried away (grandpa is no longer watching over my shoulder!). I planned to wetsand the areas of touch up with 1000. Then rubbing compound and polish, etc... I have a lot of touch up on the front of the hood. I am a little sheepish about wetsanding the whole area, or even the whole hood. I think it is OK to do this, but please tell me if I am right or wrong, or should do somsthing different. I would hate to go from OK to a lot worse...
One note from my experience is this: I will not do the paint pens again! I do not working with them, and the worst part is that they tend to drop paint every once in a while when you least expect it. Very frustrating and potentially irreversible if in the wrong spot! I will stick with the little "brush-in-a-bottle" for future jobs. It could very well be my technique used that caused the problem, but I cannot see any other way to use them, except like I did.
Thanks...
08-13-2007, 07:08 PM
#2
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Ahhhh...
1000 Grit wet and Dry, while it seems very fine to the touch, is probably more "aggressive" than you want for true "Wet Sanding"
I have used 1000 grit, and found that it removes more paint than I wanted and too fast!
I switched up to 2000 grit (which feels pretty close to copy paper, but obviously is a little tougher!) and found that much better for a light wet sand job on a finish coat of black that I had applied to a Fuchs center section. Then go for a polish with Meguiars Glaze, which is in fact a fine polishing compound in liquid form...3M makes a very similar product that most body shops use for final finish.
Final step is the Wax of your choice, and then stand back and admire your work!
Oh, just a tip... when wet sanding, put the paper around a foam block of some sort that will help you follow the contours of the metal, and not "float" or dig in anywhere... let the wet paper do the work, and keep in mind that you are trying to "just " touch the surface evenly and not really remove any significant amount of it! Don't let a film of old paint crud build up on the paper... keep it freshly wet and very clean during the process! Good luck, and yes, photos of the results are expected!!!
1000 Grit wet and Dry, while it seems very fine to the touch, is probably more "aggressive" than you want for true "Wet Sanding"
I have used 1000 grit, and found that it removes more paint than I wanted and too fast!
I switched up to 2000 grit (which feels pretty close to copy paper, but obviously is a little tougher!) and found that much better for a light wet sand job on a finish coat of black that I had applied to a Fuchs center section. Then go for a polish with Meguiars Glaze, which is in fact a fine polishing compound in liquid form...3M makes a very similar product that most body shops use for final finish.
Final step is the Wax of your choice, and then stand back and admire your work!
Oh, just a tip... when wet sanding, put the paper around a foam block of some sort that will help you follow the contours of the metal, and not "float" or dig in anywhere... let the wet paper do the work, and keep in mind that you are trying to "just " touch the surface evenly and not really remove any significant amount of it! Don't let a film of old paint crud build up on the paper... keep it freshly wet and very clean during the process! Good luck, and yes, photos of the results are expected!!!
08-13-2007, 07:39 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips 1986951. I had read something earlier today about going to a 2000 grit as well. In fact, the article suggested a Meguiars 2000 grit sanding block. I pretty much use all Meguiars (habit from Dad). I hope it tuns out decent. The scratch on the rear drivers side is the one that worries me the most. I was thinking about taping off just around the area that has paint applied to keep my work more localized on that scratch, but I also wonder if this would be too focused.
I will probably get the meguiars block and really take her good and slow with plenty of soapy water and hope for the best.
Pics will follow...
I will probably get the meguiars block and really take her good and slow with plenty of soapy water and hope for the best.
Pics will follow...
08-13-2007, 11:47 PM
#4
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I should have mentioned my "formula" for the "wet' part of wet sanding!
I use a one quart spray bottle, like you can buy at a supermarket for general purpose spraying of water... the Better Half uses one to dampen laundry before ironing...
Put in 3 to 5 DROPS of Dawn Liquid Dish Soap... NO more! You are using the dish soap as a water wetter, not to clean dirty dishes! Then I add a tablespoon of White Distilled Vinegar... acidifies the solution, and seems to help prevent the old paint from clumping together as you sand...finally, fill with lukewarm water, and gently agitate the entire bottle... Let any foam settle before spraying ON THE PAPER... a lot of spray on the paint really doesn't help... you are trying to keep the paper luibricated and CLEAN!!! I also use the spray on a clean cotton cloth to remove residue on the paint surface, so that I can clearly see the area I am working...
I have heard of the Meguiars Sanding Blocks, but have never used them... let us know what you think! Worst case is you can probably wrap regular 2000 wet and dry paper around a block and use it in that fashion... BTW, I can't emphasize enough that you are not really trying to remove material here... we are talking in micro millimeters...way less than the thickness of a human hair! So no force is really applied to the verticle surface; just enough horizontally to keep the paper moving lightly over the area...
The scratch on your RR Metallic is going to be a very difficult repair, simply because you can't tell how the metal flake in your touchup paint is going to lie, and it very likely will not lie in the direction that the original paint flake lies, leaving a distinct and noticeable difference. Make sure to clean the scratch area very well with Isopropyl Alcohol before taping up the area...
Using the masking tape (painters yellow or at least 3M Blue) is a good idea, and if you have the skill for it, cover the scratch with a single piece, and then use an razor knife (Xacto) to remove just the tape over the bare area... yes, it will be very very difficult, but a super sharp blade, a bright work light and a good eye and you can do it! Then use this "Template" to fill in the scratch... Let the paint set, and see as it dries, if you have filled it deep enough... If not, you will need a second coat, which generally needs to be applied with in 20 minutes of the first coat.
Once the scratch is filled, and the paint has "set", but still has some elasticity to it, you need to carefully peel back the "Mask"... use the very tip of the Xacto blade to get under the mask and when you peel, pull it back very slowly and at as tight to the surface as you can without marring the new paint. If the repair starts to pull out of the scratch, you may need to carefully loosen the edge between the paint and the tape with the blade.
If you get lucky, and have filled the scratch just enough, you can wait for the paint to cure, and then gently buff it down with a bit of the "Glaze" on a cotton rag, and it will be a great 5 footer! I personally have not had any luck trying to wet sand metallic touchup paint, and then buff out the area... it always comes out looking too shiny due to getting too much metallic up to the surface... But you can always try and see how it works for you!
Porsche even supplies the Clear Coat to put over the base coat metallic touchup paint, but again, it never works to my satisfaction... always seems to leave a too shiny "Blob" over the new paint...Which reminds me... I think Porsche still supplies the Touchup paint "Kit" for you color check with Jeff at Sunset Imports in Beaverton, OR. "porscheparts@sunsetimports.com" About $10.00 per Kit...
I use a one quart spray bottle, like you can buy at a supermarket for general purpose spraying of water... the Better Half uses one to dampen laundry before ironing...
Put in 3 to 5 DROPS of Dawn Liquid Dish Soap... NO more! You are using the dish soap as a water wetter, not to clean dirty dishes! Then I add a tablespoon of White Distilled Vinegar... acidifies the solution, and seems to help prevent the old paint from clumping together as you sand...finally, fill with lukewarm water, and gently agitate the entire bottle... Let any foam settle before spraying ON THE PAPER... a lot of spray on the paint really doesn't help... you are trying to keep the paper luibricated and CLEAN!!! I also use the spray on a clean cotton cloth to remove residue on the paint surface, so that I can clearly see the area I am working...
I have heard of the Meguiars Sanding Blocks, but have never used them... let us know what you think! Worst case is you can probably wrap regular 2000 wet and dry paper around a block and use it in that fashion... BTW, I can't emphasize enough that you are not really trying to remove material here... we are talking in micro millimeters...way less than the thickness of a human hair! So no force is really applied to the verticle surface; just enough horizontally to keep the paper moving lightly over the area...
The scratch on your RR Metallic is going to be a very difficult repair, simply because you can't tell how the metal flake in your touchup paint is going to lie, and it very likely will not lie in the direction that the original paint flake lies, leaving a distinct and noticeable difference. Make sure to clean the scratch area very well with Isopropyl Alcohol before taping up the area...
Using the masking tape (painters yellow or at least 3M Blue) is a good idea, and if you have the skill for it, cover the scratch with a single piece, and then use an razor knife (Xacto) to remove just the tape over the bare area... yes, it will be very very difficult, but a super sharp blade, a bright work light and a good eye and you can do it! Then use this "Template" to fill in the scratch... Let the paint set, and see as it dries, if you have filled it deep enough... If not, you will need a second coat, which generally needs to be applied with in 20 minutes of the first coat.
Once the scratch is filled, and the paint has "set", but still has some elasticity to it, you need to carefully peel back the "Mask"... use the very tip of the Xacto blade to get under the mask and when you peel, pull it back very slowly and at as tight to the surface as you can without marring the new paint. If the repair starts to pull out of the scratch, you may need to carefully loosen the edge between the paint and the tape with the blade.
If you get lucky, and have filled the scratch just enough, you can wait for the paint to cure, and then gently buff it down with a bit of the "Glaze" on a cotton rag, and it will be a great 5 footer! I personally have not had any luck trying to wet sand metallic touchup paint, and then buff out the area... it always comes out looking too shiny due to getting too much metallic up to the surface... But you can always try and see how it works for you!
Porsche even supplies the Clear Coat to put over the base coat metallic touchup paint, but again, it never works to my satisfaction... always seems to leave a too shiny "Blob" over the new paint...Which reminds me... I think Porsche still supplies the Touchup paint "Kit" for you color check with Jeff at Sunset Imports in Beaverton, OR. "porscheparts@sunsetimports.com" About $10.00 per Kit...
