+1. I agree. And, I have a Euro-cooler in my SC with a nifty setup.

I installed a 6.5" Spal fan on the lower-half area of the oil cooler with a remote dash switch. I also use the "remove-the-headlight, open-headlight-bucket" air cooling system on track days. The upper half of the cooler is right behind the headlight bucket, and the open headlight-bucket method allows cool air to be rammed over the top half of the oil cooler when moving on the track. On the street and in heavy traffic, I turn the fan on at 220-degrees. The temp usually drops to 180 - 200-D. after about 2 minutes. I run the fan continuously at A-X events since there's lots of sitting in the grid.

So it's possible to have "both" oil-cooler venting systems in a 911: fan + ram-air, without one interfering with the other. (Note: the headlight only comes out on track days.)

Good rap on oil chemistry, too. Nice bit of research.

 

I'm screwed, AC in my 85 euro 930 just died. Turn on fan switch and nothing, nada, zero, zip! Will have to track this down. Earlier in the week it started going intermittent on me. Sometimes it'd run sometimes not. But, on the good side, the car really likes running w/o the AC!

Current Orlando FL weather at 3:00 PM EDT:
Temp: 91 deg F (feels like 101 deg F)
UV Index: 8
Wind: SSE at 5 mph
Humidity: 56%
Pressure: 29.99 and falling
Dew Point: 74 deg F
Visibility: 6 miles

 

At least you're cooler in Orlando.

I'm very thankful the humidy is low.

Raleigh 8/9/07 3:30 PM
Temperature 104°F
Dew Point 73°F
Relative Humidity 37%
Heat Index 116°F (ouch !)
Wind West Southwest 4 mph
Pressure 29.9

Supposed to cool down to 102 tomorrow....

John

 

Castrol's good stuff. Should work fine.

 

I used Castrol for many years in my other cars, but I've read enough "not so good things" from at least one Porsche engine guru that would make me reconsider this choice on a 911.

 

For someone in need (who asked)

 

The last image gives me actual temps. Mine is an 86' and I think it's the same gauge.

Mine runs right around the second mark when warmed up. Even in 100 plus degrees it barely climbs up past 194 ( see image in previous post) and never to the middle mark.

I think you can tell if the cooling is working, the oil level gauge will come to life when the front tank is in use? I think. I know mine does this. It's been in the 80's here lately but we don't have any stop and go traffic.

 

86...: The oil level gauge comes to life before the cooler is active, but it's accurate after the cooler thermostat opens. You live in a beautiful part of the country, probably one of the very best, and your ocean breezes will take good care of your car! Don't forget, always use the dipstick, only use the gauge as a reference...

 

Murphyslaw,

Thanks for the photo.

The highest my needle reached was at 9:00.
This was during a 95 degree day andbeing stuck for about 20 minutes in stop & go traffic. I do not have a fan on my front oil cooler.

It usually stays around 8:00 (around 200) when the temps drop into the 80's under "normal" driving conditions and lower in the fall/winter.

John

 

Yep, same here, 9:00 at the highest while stuck in traffic.

 

I recently drove a 3.2 cross country from Fresno to NYC, the car was cool for most of the trip, I had a couple of hour stretch through Nevada and Utah where the temp gauge was a little bit above halfway, never hit the second line. I was pretty worried and ran the heat as much as I could to bring the temp down. I use 20w 50 mineral oil, rest of the way was always at or below the first line between 7 & 8, based of this post I feel pretty comfortable. The car went through less than half a quart of oil over 3200 miles.

 

i would put in front oil cooler (some say mazda cooler) in the front $60 value if you do it yourself.
if you go that route & the cooler is used, please have it cleaned before installing, it may
cost you $$$. keep the temp around 210 no more. it is too hot after 210.

good luck

alex

 

I removed the fan and shroud from the front of the fender oil cooler. I also closed off all the gaps between the cooler and body parts.

Temperature is significantly improved (max. 215 degrees in stop and go traffic), even though I acknowledge that part of it is due to the lower ambient temperatures this season. It also appears that the fan assembly blocks off a lot of the convection surface area and air flow.

I had the fan tested and disassembled. It is fried! The fan blades were badly rubbing the shroud, so the fan overheated. The plastic motor brush supports were melted. The fan is not re-buidable. I am not sure how long it has been like this. Maybe during the PO era?

I intend to substitute a Spal fan as Black Pearl described. Cost ~$90 delivered with pigtail adapter. I want to be sure that the temperatures stay down when the heat of summer comes around again.

I would like to use the OEM fan, but a new one is ~$400.

 

Uh oh... According to this thrad my temps are way too high. On 90degree + days my temp is up to 275-300! On regular temp days like 0-75degree days its like 220-260. Either way its too damn hott! guess ill be replacing that trombone cooler and undenting my oil lines this winter

 

Could also be that your gauge is not entirely accurate. A far shot but it might be worth to investigate before you start doing all that work.