plastic ramp replacement for timing chains
11-22-2001, 09:35 PM
#1
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plastic ramp replacement for timing chains
please for those that have done this already!!
I HAVE THE REAR BUMPER, MUFFLER OFF MY 87
3.2 CARRERA. IS THIS A GOOD TIME TO CHECK AND OR REPLACE THE CHAIN RAMPS? AND IF SO
HOW DEEP AM I GETTING MYSELF IN? I AM HERE SO
I THOUGHT WHY NOT, BUT PRUDENCE REARED HIS
UGLY HEAD AND I THOUGHT I HAD BETTER CONSULT
WITH THE "BOARD". ANY THOUGHTS GENTELMEN AND
ANY OTHER ISSUES TO ADDRESS SINCE "I,M HERE".
LONG WEEKEND AND "I DON,T WATCH FOOTBALL"
HOPE YOU ALL ATE AS WELL AS I!
KEITH
I HAVE THE REAR BUMPER, MUFFLER OFF MY 87
3.2 CARRERA. IS THIS A GOOD TIME TO CHECK AND OR REPLACE THE CHAIN RAMPS? AND IF SO
HOW DEEP AM I GETTING MYSELF IN? I AM HERE SO
I THOUGHT WHY NOT, BUT PRUDENCE REARED HIS
UGLY HEAD AND I THOUGHT I HAD BETTER CONSULT
WITH THE "BOARD". ANY THOUGHTS GENTELMEN AND
ANY OTHER ISSUES TO ADDRESS SINCE "I,M HERE".
LONG WEEKEND AND "I DON,T WATCH FOOTBALL"
HOPE YOU ALL ATE AS WELL AS I!
KEITH
11-22-2001, 11:03 PM
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Keith- it depends how keen you are. Certainly , getting the muffler and bumper off will ease the task somewhat. You still have to remove the rear shelf sheetmetal and all the chain cover bolts (and new gaskets/crush washers for replacement) regardless of whether they need replacing or not. Someone else will better inform you how likely that is on an 87, but I can say for sure that one of mine had snapped despite looking quite newish. To look at it you wouldn't know.....apart from that nasty noise.
I think the heat cycles cause the locating tabs to fail, and the ramps flail around a bit. A couple of mine had broken. Buy genuine parts, naturally!
To replace, you will need a set of LONG nose mechanics pliers with a 30 degree bend in the end. They need to have long handles too.
These are the best tool for holding the difficult inner ramps in place while you locate them. You need them to clamp the ramps securely while you position them, so a way of locking these is useful. I used a large cable tie and slid it up and down the handle part of the pliers to work in a similar fashion to vice grips, only far more easily manipulated. Good trick!
Find an old flat blade screwdriver and put a curved bend along its length. This will allow you to clip the other tricky ramps on from behind by levering against something solid. Be sure not to drop the old-or new ramps in the sump. Bad bad bad.
Not really too hard a job with these two tools. Probably worth it for piece of mind, but I wouldn't say go for it unless you were keen (which you should be if you are a keen DIY 911 mehanic
)
I think the heat cycles cause the locating tabs to fail, and the ramps flail around a bit. A couple of mine had broken. Buy genuine parts, naturally!
To replace, you will need a set of LONG nose mechanics pliers with a 30 degree bend in the end. They need to have long handles too.
These are the best tool for holding the difficult inner ramps in place while you locate them. You need them to clamp the ramps securely while you position them, so a way of locking these is useful. I used a large cable tie and slid it up and down the handle part of the pliers to work in a similar fashion to vice grips, only far more easily manipulated. Good trick!
Find an old flat blade screwdriver and put a curved bend along its length. This will allow you to clip the other tricky ramps on from behind by levering against something solid. Be sure not to drop the old-or new ramps in the sump. Bad bad bad.
Not really too hard a job with these two tools. Probably worth it for piece of mind, but I wouldn't say go for it unless you were keen (which you should be if you are a keen DIY 911 mehanic
)
11-23-2001, 11:54 AM
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matt,
thanks mate! the pliers you refer to, do
you have a brand name or picture. the shelf
is that the upper heat sheild? and does anyone know where the post from long ago
on this isssue is addressed? i recall that only one should be done at a time but thats about the extent of my memory. do the ramps just "snap" in place? and is there a danger
of disturbing the cam timing? does the cam have to be held stationary by some means or by just replacing one at time is that fear
eleiminated?
matt, I r&r'd in sydney while I served in
Vietnam and loved the folks down under. Still can,t get people to believe that I
saw a right hand drive HEMI charger while I was there.
goodday.
keith
thanks mate! the pliers you refer to, do
you have a brand name or picture. the shelf
is that the upper heat sheild? and does anyone know where the post from long ago
on this isssue is addressed? i recall that only one should be done at a time but thats about the extent of my memory. do the ramps just "snap" in place? and is there a danger
of disturbing the cam timing? does the cam have to be held stationary by some means or by just replacing one at time is that fear
eleiminated?
matt, I r&r'd in sydney while I served in
Vietnam and loved the folks down under. Still can,t get people to believe that I
saw a right hand drive HEMI charger while I was there.
goodday.
keith
11-23-2001, 01:14 PM
#4
the cheapest and best tools for holding the inner ramps while the bolts are run thru them are your index and middle fingers. poor man's needlenose. there probably is nothing wrong with the ramps. i would only go in there to replace a tensioner or fix a leak, and check the ramps then.
11-24-2001, 08:46 AM
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Hello
How about a simple check from all wires and hoses and when was the last time you checked your distributor and put a drop oil in the shaft under the finger ? Also check your cam tower oil lines as they normaly get leaky in 30-50 000 mls intervalls.
And did you ever polished a muffler ? many hours work turning blue after you hit the throttle several minutes. This will keep you busy the next decade
Grüsse
How about a simple check from all wires and hoses and when was the last time you checked your distributor and put a drop oil in the shaft under the finger ? Also check your cam tower oil lines as they normaly get leaky in 30-50 000 mls intervalls.
And did you ever polished a muffler ? many hours work turning blue after you hit the throttle several minutes. This will keep you busy the next decade
Grüsse
11-24-2001, 12:21 PM
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ROLAND,
NICE TO HEAR FROM YOU! THE "FINGER"? DO YOU
MEAN THE DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR? AS FAR AS THE CAM TOWERS, I TAKE IT YOU MEAN THE OIL SUPPLY
LINES FOR THE HYDRAULIC TENSIONERS WHERE THEY GO FROM METAL TO FLEXIBLE HOSE AND AS FAR AS THE MUFFLER, I,M REPLACING THE B&B TWIN EXIT WITH A BURSCH SINGLE EXIT THAT SHOULD FIT THE STOCK SINGLE EXIT LOWER VALANCE I,M PUTTING ON TO REPLACE THE FIBERGLASS REARBUMPER/FENDER EXTENSION/LOWER
VALANCE COMBINATION. YOU SENT ME A POST
MONTHS AGO ABOUT A SLANT NOSE WITH FIBERGLASS
COMPONENTS, COULDN,T BE A FACTORY SLANT, SO
I,VE GATHERED UP ALL THE REAL PORSCHE STEEL
PARTS AND WHEN I,M DONE IT WILL INDEED LOOK
LIKE A FACTORY JOB. THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONTRIBUTION!!
KEITH
NICE TO HEAR FROM YOU! THE "FINGER"? DO YOU
MEAN THE DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR? AS FAR AS THE CAM TOWERS, I TAKE IT YOU MEAN THE OIL SUPPLY
LINES FOR THE HYDRAULIC TENSIONERS WHERE THEY GO FROM METAL TO FLEXIBLE HOSE AND AS FAR AS THE MUFFLER, I,M REPLACING THE B&B TWIN EXIT WITH A BURSCH SINGLE EXIT THAT SHOULD FIT THE STOCK SINGLE EXIT LOWER VALANCE I,M PUTTING ON TO REPLACE THE FIBERGLASS REARBUMPER/FENDER EXTENSION/LOWER
VALANCE COMBINATION. YOU SENT ME A POST
MONTHS AGO ABOUT A SLANT NOSE WITH FIBERGLASS
COMPONENTS, COULDN,T BE A FACTORY SLANT, SO
I,VE GATHERED UP ALL THE REAL PORSCHE STEEL
PARTS AND WHEN I,M DONE IT WILL INDEED LOOK
LIKE A FACTORY JOB. THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONTRIBUTION!!
KEITH
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11-25-2001, 06:57 PM
#8
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How did you get on with this Keith?
I've been away from my pc for the weekend. Mr Walker is right about fingers being the cheapest, but he probably has strong, slim professional fingers, not like my stubby ivory white'weekend use only' versions
The pliers you can probably find most tool places. I think I bought mine from K Mart for $7 US or something. Easy decision, that one!
Great polishing suggestion Roland. I have a stainless aftermarket muffler that does a similar blue-ing trick. I found it dissapeared instantly when I accidentally wiped it with a rag containing rust killer (a phosphoric acid version). Just don't quote me on that one though- I'd hate to be held at fault if anyone dissolves a brand new Dansk...
BTW, the phrase was nearly correct: Gidday instead of Good day. I'm pleased you enjoyed yourself down here. Most of us are friendly, happy people. Something about the weather and being upside down I guess!
I've been away from my pc for the weekend. Mr Walker is right about fingers being the cheapest, but he probably has strong, slim professional fingers, not like my stubby ivory white'weekend use only' versions
The pliers you can probably find most tool places. I think I bought mine from K Mart for $7 US or something. Easy decision, that one!
Great polishing suggestion Roland
. I have a stainless aftermarket muffler that does a similar blue-ing trick. I found it dissapeared instantly when I accidentally wiped it with a rag containing rust killer (a phosphoric acid version). Just don't quote me on that one though- I'd hate to be held at fault if anyone dissolves a brand new Dansk...BTW, the phrase was nearly correct: Gidday instead of Good day. I'm pleased you enjoyed yourself down here. Most of us are friendly, happy people. Something about the weather and being upside down I guess!
11-25-2001, 10:27 PM
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MATT,
I,M AFRAID MR. ANDERSON TALKED ME OUT OF THE
RAMP R+R, SO I HAD TO BE CONTENT WITH INSTALLING A NEW BLAUPUNKT RADIO/CD PLAYER IN
MY WIFES HONDA. I DID ROUND UP ALL THE FIBERGLASS PARTS AND THE B+B MUFFLER FROM THE
SLANT NOSE, TAKE SOME PHOTOS AND PUT-EM ON
EBAY, WHICH AT LEAST COULD OF MADE IT A PRODUCTIVE WEEKEND.
LIKE I SAID MY VISIT WAS DURING THE VIETNAM
ERA AND I STAYED A BIT "PINTED"!! DAMN GOOD
BEER!
KEITH
I,M AFRAID MR. ANDERSON TALKED ME OUT OF THE
RAMP R+R, SO I HAD TO BE CONTENT WITH INSTALLING A NEW BLAUPUNKT RADIO/CD PLAYER IN
MY WIFES HONDA. I DID ROUND UP ALL THE FIBERGLASS PARTS AND THE B+B MUFFLER FROM THE
SLANT NOSE, TAKE SOME PHOTOS AND PUT-EM ON
EBAY, WHICH AT LEAST COULD OF MADE IT A PRODUCTIVE WEEKEND.
LIKE I SAID MY VISIT WAS DURING THE VIETNAM
ERA AND I STAYED A BIT "PINTED"!! DAMN GOOD
BEER!
KEITH
11-26-2001, 03:54 AM
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Hello
Yes I was refering to the distributor rotor.
In germany we have the word finger for a simple rotor while using the distributor rotor for devices witch will cut at certain rev the ignition off.
If you remove the finger you will find the hollow shaft has a little pad sticked into. This pad receives one big trop motoroil each service. This oil will lube the inner shaft and fullcrumwightsystem.
Abnd yes you guesed it right i was refering to the oilines for the tensioners. The short rubber hoses get leaky with aging especially if you drive with to hot oil.
I never had seen one burst but sometimes they can start to leak very fast. You will see smoke in the mirror and your oiltemperature go up before something turns into blue metall.
They are both very simple to swap except you have a AC then you will hit into a extra hour removing the lower AC supportbrace.
The site I mailed to you was http://www.flachbau.com/home.htm and is only about factory cars from the 90´s. Most datas on that site where supplied with a little help from a Porsche nut ( and factory employe ) but I´m not sure if they only cover factory cars ( hadn´t been there to long ). Yet if you have any special needs I can try to give aid.
To remove the "coloring" you just get some "Avesta" from your local weld suppley and then you thin it ( very hazardos ) and apply it. Wait several secounds and wash it off with lots of water. Then have a very fine dish sponge on hand and scrub the color out. Only tp do if the exhaust is out as overhad working is to risky. It will not come back to the perfect stainless luster. There will always be a very slight yellow tone. Just like comparing nickled to chromed parts. To compensate that just use slight blue colored glases
Grüsse
I understand "Bid pinted". Bit is a german brewery ( short from Bitburger Pils belonging to the Coca Cola company ) so how this comes from Nam ?
Yes I was refering to the distributor rotor.
In germany we have the word finger for a simple rotor while using the distributor rotor for devices witch will cut at certain rev the ignition off.
If you remove the finger you will find the hollow shaft has a little pad sticked into. This pad receives one big trop motoroil each service. This oil will lube the inner shaft and fullcrumwightsystem.
Abnd yes you guesed it right i was refering to the oilines for the tensioners. The short rubber hoses get leaky with aging especially if you drive with to hot oil.
I never had seen one burst but sometimes they can start to leak very fast. You will see smoke in the mirror and your oiltemperature go up before something turns into blue metall.
They are both very simple to swap except you have a AC then you will hit into a extra hour removing the lower AC supportbrace.
The site I mailed to you was http://www.flachbau.com/home.htm and is only about factory cars from the 90´s. Most datas on that site where supplied with a little help from a Porsche nut ( and factory employe ) but I´m not sure if they only cover factory cars ( hadn´t been there to long ). Yet if you have any special needs I can try to give aid.
To remove the "coloring" you just get some "Avesta" from your local weld suppley and then you thin it ( very hazardos ) and apply it. Wait several secounds and wash it off with lots of water. Then have a very fine dish sponge on hand and scrub the color out. Only tp do if the exhaust is out as overhad working is to risky. It will not come back to the perfect stainless luster. There will always be a very slight yellow tone. Just like comparing nickled to chromed parts. To compensate that just use slight blue colored glases
Grüsse
I understand "Bid pinted". Bit is a german brewery ( short from Bitburger Pils belonging to the Coca Cola company ) so how this comes from Nam ?
