This past winter, I replaced the trombone-style loop oil cooler in my SC (3 L) with the 28 tube brass oil cooler. The result has been dramatic for street/highway driving - especially with the high temps we've been having here in the east (Phila area). Rarely has the temp gone above 210. On the track, however, it's a different story. Just came back from a 3 day DE event at the Glen, and it didn't take much to get up to 250 degrees(high temps/hot track). During my 4 hour trek driving home at speeds 'a little' over those posted, the temp may have reached 220 - certainly not much more than that. Since I plan to do at least one more DE event before the end of summer, does anyone have any suggestions as to cost-effective alternatives to going the full-blown oil cooler route? I average 6-8 DE days a year. Has anyone tried the following, and with what results: removed their RH parking light; used the air scoop that goes on the front right fender; tried the vented sump plate advertised in PANO? (I know the "cool collar" has been discussed previously.

Thank you in advance!

 

Something like this with a B&B cooler behind it will cure all of you oil temperature problems

 

John,

I went through various options, as described in the article on 911 engine cooling on tech. rennlist.com. I think you're going to find that you have to go with a more active cooling solution, either in front like the picture Bill posted or I've posted the RUF option I used (which maintains the stock bumper with a PU lower valance and oil cooler, which worked very well). I'm not sure your how the brass tube cooler will respond to more airflow, as opposed to a radiator-style cooler which requires airflow to cool.



Let us know what you do!

 

Probably have to go with at least a radiator style cooler in the wheel well and there is a reason that these folks go to a center mounted RS style cooler. I still have the 28 row brass tube cooler running way hot on the track and cool on the street no matter what the ambient. I cut out the underside of the bumper, significantly more then the Carrera cut out, boxed in the cooler (so no air can get around it), cut out the back of the head light bezel and removed the trim so all air flows around the light through the holes, and finally moved the turn signal to where the side marker light was and left the opening in the front. Still two needle widths above the top white mark on the temp scale. Next move is to install the 41 row Mocal radiator cooler in the wheel well location. Maybe I should just move to the center front, since I already removed the AC compressor maybe I should remove the whole thing.
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

A good option is the <a href="http://www.elephantracing.com" target="_blank">Elephant Racing Finned Oil Lines</a>.

These lines are finned to dissipate heat and are an easy swap for your existing lines between thermostat and fender. On a configuration like you have, peak temps will drop about 20F with these lines.

 

I would like to see a post from someone who has used the Elephant Racing finned lines. They make a lot of sense, let's hope they work as well as it appears they should.

Like Bill, I tried almost every iteration, from Turbatrol cooler, to 87 Carrera cooler with a manual fan option with fog light removed, right front turn signal removed, the front bumper notched on the right hand side, the car still ran hot. I finally settled on the 934 type front valance with a front mounted radiator. This approach did the trick and the car ran cool on the street, and especially at the track. In the high California desert in July (90 degrees F +)at Willow Springs, after 20 minutes on the track, maybe 220 F at the maximum.

Problem: It is not cheap. The front fibreglass valance is about $300 before paint, the oil cooler can be up to $800, depending on the brand you select. This solution works, the rest generally don't, it is as simple as that. Be

 

I've got a Turbatrol, and a Carrera cooler, with abs ducting, chopped battery boxes, and additional vents cut in the foglight spots.



It works, but a front bumper cooler is more sensible.

 

Chuck,

Your's looks like an interesting solution - and seems logical. I visited your website and saw that you sell the lines as sets and individually. You stated that these lines would reduce my temps 20 degrees...is it reasonable to assume (ALWAYS a dangerous word *G*) that using only one line would drop my temps 10 degrees?

Anyone try the "Compact Oil Cooler" shown in the Tweeks catalog? Similar premise-only replacing the "S" hose from the oil tank to the engine cooler with a 13" aluminum unit with a 3" fin diameter that allegedly lowers temps 15 degrees. I'm wondering how effective this is as a heat sink, and with its location in the rear wheel well how effective would the air flow be?

As usual, thanks in advance.

 

John, i have had the compact cooler on my car for almost a year now and even though we have had a rather cool summer this year in so cal i have noted an average of 15 degree reduction in oil temps in all kinds of driving. The compact cooler has over 500 square inches of surface area that is in a location that has a great deal of air passing through . I believe a good bang for your cooling buck and an easy installation. Available from Tweeks, Pelicanparts.com and soon Performance Products or just e-mail me and i will send you one.
Jerry

 

John,

In this case your assumptions are safe. 10 degrees is a reasonable expectation on your car from a single line.

The Elephant Racing finned oil lines provide about 2500 sq inches of surface area for the pair and hang in the air stream under the car. And they are on the controlled side of the thermostat so they don't extend the warm-up period.

 

By the by... has anyone installed the Pelican´s "Oil Cooler Air Scoop"? Does it work? How much temperature does it take away? ... or is it just better to "trim the bumper" for the air hole?

 

Carlos, i make the scoop so you can take what i say as slightly slanted . The scoop is designed to increase the airflow over just a hole in the bumper and also to bring in cooler air than what comes under the valance. Tests on my 78SC have shown on average a 7 degree reduction in oil temps, at highway speeds.{as one brain trust bbs'er put it " the scoop only works if your driving"--duh
Jerry

 

Hi,

doing some work on my old VW Mk1 Golf noticed that it has oil cooler ( air cooled ) in the front engine bay.
It looks about the right size to fit in the 911 front wheel arch.

Has anyone used one of these as a secondary oil cooler - thought it might be a cheaper option to the aftermarket coolers offered just for Porsches?

 

I think the problem with the cooler from the vw would be that the lines were too small. If the lines aren't adequate (-16AN I want to say, but I can't remember for sure) kjen it can cause serious problems. I would guess that an oil cooler from almost any other car would be too small except I know some people use the cooler from late model RX7's.

 

-16 is the correct AN equivelant to the factory metric size, though many people use -12 to economize at the cost of flow capacity. People who use the RX7 cooler weld in larger fittings since the stock ones are too small.