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3.0 vs 3.2 Power Difference????

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Old 07-12-2007, 10:37 AM
  #16  
Slantnose!
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Seems to me, 2.7's, 3.0's & 3.2's all are about the same.
3.6's are where the difference really becomes bigger/more noticable.
Old 07-12-2007, 10:53 AM
  #17  
Gary R.
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Wasn't the original poster was talking about racing? This pertains to PCA Club Racing so YMMV-
On the race track 2.7's do well on short, tight tracks but can't stay with the faster 3.0L drivers regardless. Forget the 2.7's on long tracks. 3.2L's carry extra weight and are locked into a 6200 RPM redline by their chip (NOT alterable in PCA Stock Class) and get generally whomped by 3.0L cars that are free to rev well past 7K. In F the most successful combo is a Euro SC (3.0) as modified as rules allow. All just MHO of course.
Old 07-12-2007, 05:52 PM
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g-50cab
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Originally Posted by Gary R.
Wasn't the original poster was talking about racing? This pertains to PCA Club Racing so YMMV-
On the race track 2.7's do well on short, tight tracks but can't stay with the faster 3.0L drivers regardless. Forget the 2.7's on long tracks. 3.2L's carry extra weight and are locked into a 6200 RPM redline by their chip (NOT alterable in PCA Stock Class) and get generally whomped by 3.0L cars that are free to rev well past 7K. In F the most successful combo is a Euro SC (3.0) as modified as rules allow. All just MHO of course.
Actually Gary - the original post was:

Originally Posted by Craig Trask
How much faster is a 3.2 over the 3.0?

If the 3.0 car was 175 lighter and recently rebuilt with top-of-the-line ARP stuff, would it be close?

Thanks,

Craig
Your answers have been racing centric - which I have learned from - I didn't realize the euro 3.2's were in the same group as the 3.6's - I'll take a 3.6 if I am racing -

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as the original question - yes, they should be close, given cars with similiar conditions and with the SC loosing a couple of lbs. As far as ARP stuff - you will get little purformance gain - just more piece of mind that it will hold itself togther at the higher RPM ranges.
Old 07-12-2007, 07:00 PM
  #19  
Craig T.
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Originally Posted by g-50cab
Actually Gary - the original post was:



Your answers have been racing centric - which I have learned from - I didn't realize the euro 3.2's were in the same group as the 3.6's - I'll take a 3.6 if I am racing -
Gary is very perceptive. Although my original post was ambiguous, I was referring specifically to speed on the track.

I have a 86 3.2 that I was going to build into a POC JP class car (PCA “F” I think). I came across a fully sorted 78 SC for MUCH less than the cost of bringing my 86 to JP spec. The SC isn’t pretty, but I know its history and the quality of the work. It’s dialed in

The SC puts me in “I”, so I won’t be competing with 3.2 cars ("J" ), but I didn’t want to give up any “thrill factor”. My only other competitive track time has been in a “mostly stock” 993TT. I know the SC will be slower than the TT, but I won’t have the nightmare of denial from my insurance adjuster when I weld it to a wall. That’s worth at least 10 seconds at Willow Springs and 200 hp.
Old 07-13-2007, 02:20 PM
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Cory M
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Are you going to be racing it or just TT in the POC?
Old 07-13-2007, 02:30 PM
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Gary R.
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That's why I have two cars. For DE or anything not following class rules I have my 930 "do whatever I want to it and be legal" and for PCA G class club racing I have my 78 SC built to specs. Craig - (you most likely are well aware) you have to read the rules very carefully for whatever class you will be shooting for. Does the "dialed in" SC have a POC, PCA, or NASA log book? If so it is already set for that class and you would have to get it scruted for any other club series (new logbooks)..
Old 07-13-2007, 04:05 PM
  #22  
Craig T.
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I've been out for a couple years recovering from a neck surgery. The POC will require me to go through the ranks again. That means a few short track days until signed off, then a full year of TTs. I might get the STS pencil-whipped as I had my TT license before the neck injury. I'd like to go to W2W racing, but I need to see how the neck holds up first.
Old 07-13-2007, 05:15 PM
  #23  
Cory M
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If you had TT license before it shouldn't take too much to get the STS signed off, probably just a check out ride.

I asked about TT vs. race because the class system is different. Each POC race class is made of of several TT classes. So, if your ultimate goal was racing it would be wise to see which race class your TT car was in, then scan event results online and see how many cars are in that class, the times the run, etc. Should you decide to race you don't want to end up in a class with no competitors to race against or with a car that is way too slow for your race class.

There are a few nice built POC 911 racecars for sale right now, easiest way to get back on the track is to buy rather than build (usually cheaper too). Boxster Spec is another class that is growing fast and looks like a lot of fun.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

- Cory
Old 07-14-2007, 03:59 PM
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BReyes
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"How much faster is a 3.2 over the 3.0?

If the 3.0 car was 175 lighter and recently rebuilt with top-of-the-line ARP stuff, would it be close?

Thanks,

Craig"



I have owned both 83 SC cab and 87 Carrera targa. I dont know if what was mentioned above regarding US means California smog regulations legal, ie overcome in early mid yr cars (Edit :backdating). I had(have) SSI, 2 into 1, chip. 16" Pirellies. Weight removed on both, even to the extent of removing AC. Top end work essential. Head studs imperative. You would be surprised how much you can find to remove and it significantly helps performance. Consider both Euro spec. The 3.2 can kick some ... .

Its all about the driver. The yes the wrench is VIP.
Old 07-17-2007, 11:42 AM
  #25  
Cory M
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have you seen this car? Set up for V4, remove the leading edge rear wing and run it in JP:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=345162
Old 07-20-2007, 03:07 PM
  #26  
PC2
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Originally Posted by Cory M
There are a few nice built POC 911 race cars for sale right now, easiest way to get back on the track is to buy rather than build (usually cheaper too).
+1 on what Cory said.



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