84_Carrera

Well, here's an odd thing.

I replaced the old solid rotors with 4 drilled ones, cadmium plated. Have used similar on other vehicles. I disassembled the parking brake setup on the driver's side (because I thought the shoes looked well-worn; turns out they're fine compared to the new ones I had overnighted, grrr). I adjusted the pass side. Both grab solidly at 4 clicks up on the lever.

I replaced the half-worn rear pads with new PBRs (Pelican's 'Metal Masters'); I kept the down 1/4 PBR fronts I'd swapped in previously.

I installed rear speedbleeders, kept the fronts for now (kit came with 2 sizes, I needed 4x the same on mine, dunno if that's normal). 2 more bleeders are on the way in now.

Rotors were cleaned well prior to install. Prior to swap, I could lock the brakes at will, super-firm pedal. Currently, it feels like I'm riding on a cushion of air, pedal feel if firm, but almost feels like it's binding. I have contact showing on the rotors all around, the fronts look like there's a couple of thin grooves where the pad may have been worn by a piece of sand, etc. on the old setup.

I was confident with the 1st bleed, but after feeling the pedal, have gone back in & re-bled, tapping the calipers to try & free any sticking bubbles. Everything's good, no leaks. Reservoir's full.

Thoughts? Air in Master? Pads not bedded sufficiently? Glazed? Thanks guys.

84_Carrera

Follow-Up:
2nd run, felt better, not great. Rotor temps after 25 minutes normal around-town driving:

LF 120°
LR 105°
RR 110°
RF 103°

Driver8

Fred,

You need to bed in the pads. Here is what I do when I install new pads. Take car up to 4000 RPM in fourth gear and left foot brake while keeping a constant throttle postition and pull the car down to 3000 RPM. Release brake and allow to car to slowly climb back up to 4000 RPM and repeat the process. Once you get that awful smell (do this with the windows down) repeat the process one last time and your done.

Aaron

84_Carrera

Aaron -
Did this in 2nd for about 1/2 mile 1st run out. Will continue (Tuesday? when weather permits). As for windows down, that's why the Cab was made in the first place, right?

Thanks for the feedback.

I stand corrected, these are my first cad-plated, the others I've used were all zinc-washed per the records I found.

Amber Gramps

fred I have to admit to doing brake jobs for every car I have owned and that every relative has ever owned. I'm talking chevy, ford, and nissan mostly.....ya gotta heat em up first. Aaron is dead on. remember the pictures.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Fred:

As noted, one must bed any brake pad to realize their full frictional capabilities.

I'm no fan of Metalmasters (or whatever they call themselves these days) due to lack of grip compared to many other alternatives.

Mintex, Pagid, & Ferodo are much better,............

84_Carrera

Thanks for the feedback guys, so much appreciated.

Steve, if you have a preferred pad in mind for my street application, please let me know what the difference to my recent order would be so I can get you paid on the new item, & send them along with the other stuff. Thanks!

Learning as I'm going. As for bedding in, geez, never had to do this much bedding before, whew, I'm tired.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Personally, I would use Mintex pads for a street car. They are much better than OEM Textars, less $$ than Ferodo or Pagid and work really nicely for what you will be doing,....

LOL,..Everything is more complicated than the old days, for sure,...

r911

a few tricks - do F calipers alone so the Rears will have good bite; once bedded, do the rears

- bevel pad edges to help w/squeal

- measure rotor thickness & runout while doing this & inspect the hoses -- squeeze them in several places & be sure they are firm -- prob. best to toss them after 5 years

- decide among the following criteria - friction vs. heat (a curve); noise, dust, cost, and initial bite -- you can't get all at once, so think hard about how you will drive

84_Carrera

Thanks for the hints Randy.

1) Dust is a consideration but not at the expense of stopping. Having both is nice however.

2) Squeal - heck, I used to run Wilwood A-spec pads before on the track car. Metal on Metal. Seriously though, I'd prefer a little quieter on the street car. Of course, plain rotors for the Wilwoods were cheap compared to the pads, and the A-specs would eat through the rotors before eating up the pads...

3) Rotors are brand new, not turned. It's probably something that I should look into with the 911 rotors being so much, but I came from a car where new rotors were $30-$50 my cost from the dealer, so $15 per rotor turning them just didn't have the lustre of a reasonable option, making 2 trips to the machine shop or parts store.

4) Lines are 2 years old, braideds (yeah yeah, I know the whole thing about braided vs. non, etc.). They stay.

I took the car out at lunch (had to bring the dog to the vet anyway), did quite a bit of bedding on the way back to work. Initial bite's still pretty blah, but seems to drag the car down nicely after. Before it was always "lock 'em" on aggressive braking, so maybe this is actually how it's supposed to be.

jdogporsche

Hi Fred! Of course I am repeating what everone else is saying, but yeah, you have to bed them for quite a bit in order to get them really gripping. When James (SeattlePorsche) and I did my brakes a few months ago I was unsure if they really felt as strong as they should have, but over a bit of time, they now grip like a champ!

rbcsaver

Fred,
This link should help you.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
regards,
Steve

r911

be sure to let Steve know those preferences - dunno if that will change him off of the Mintex tho.