OT: 2001-2003 M5 reliability
#1
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I am thinking about buying a 2003 M5 as a daily driver. Does anyone have any experience with these as far as reliability, trouble spots, etc? Thanks!
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#3
Rennlist Member
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Supposedly very reliable as far as drivetrain.
#4
Burning Brakes
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I bought a new M5 in 2000 and use it as my daily driver; 95% of my trips are under 30 miles. I have put 82k miles on it and the only problems I had were very minor. I replaced three cam position sensors at around 50k miles. The rear sway bar brackets break - they are under engineered stamped metal pieces which sell for $5.00 - so I finally replaced them with aftermarket forged metal pieces. I did my first brake job at 77k miles. Tires - $900/set - last me about 26k miles. I am still on the original battery, belts, and all bulbs. Car looks great.
So excluding oil changes and tires, on average I spend about $300/year on repairs. Not bad! My wife's Benz wagon soaks up about $1500 every two months.
I will warn you that a lot of M5 owners drive them way too hard, and in many cases, way too inexpertly. Some guys go thru clutches and brakes every 20k miles. My clutch is great at 82k and my brakes lasted 77k; I have a lot of racing experience, so I tend not to pretend to be Schummacher with my street cars. My goal was to keep the M5 for ten years, and I am sticking to the plan.
Also, the cars have a lot of nuisance OBDC codes, so if you need a reset tool, which are about $150.
Steve
00 M5
84 Carrera
98 E320
02 G500
So excluding oil changes and tires, on average I spend about $300/year on repairs. Not bad! My wife's Benz wagon soaks up about $1500 every two months.
I will warn you that a lot of M5 owners drive them way too hard, and in many cases, way too inexpertly. Some guys go thru clutches and brakes every 20k miles. My clutch is great at 82k and my brakes lasted 77k; I have a lot of racing experience, so I tend not to pretend to be Schummacher with my street cars. My goal was to keep the M5 for ten years, and I am sticking to the plan.
Also, the cars have a lot of nuisance OBDC codes, so if you need a reset tool, which are about $150.
Steve
00 M5
84 Carrera
98 E320
02 G500
#5
Three Wheelin'
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If the M5 in question is nearing 100k miles, budget for a top end rebuild. There are not tons and tons of them with that high of mileage yet, but like many BMWs they like to burn exhaust valves in the 100-120k mile range. BMW seems to have not cut their valve seats well enough from the factory, most of the ones that I've seen that we have done top-end rebuilds on (often originally b/c the head gasket(s) are leaking) I6 or V8, have at least 1 or 2 or more exhaust valves that are burnt up or pretty close to it. The seats are too wide (so they don't exert quite enough pressure) and let the valve sit a bit too far into the combustion chamber, and combustion gases can get in between the valve and seat.
Also, the M5s are known to have secondary air passages clog up, just like 993s (do a search of the 993 board here on Rennlist and on the M5 board). The valve guide material from the factory is too soft and lets carbon build up in the secondary air injection passages, eventually clogging them completely. This is a problem if you live in a state like CA where you have to pass emissions tests that check your OBDII readiness monitors. The clogged post cause a check engine light since the O2 sensors don't see the expected extra rush of air on cold start when the secondary air pump runs. Just clearing the code doesn't help either! Only true fix is to pull the heads and clear out the passages (and put in better valve guides!!!)--BMW has released a factory kit since we last did a top end on an M5 to make this easier (don't need to replace the heads unless of course they are cracked or warped or something).
OK, sorry to scare you there, but other than that the E39 M5 is as awesome car! There really is not a better all around performance/luxury car available. Great bang for the buck these days, but make sure you buy a low mileage one that's been taken care of, or one that's just had the top end done by a reputable shop. Do get a PPI and compression/leakdown tested. Also check the twin breather hoses that run along the front of the engine---these are an easy fix but every M5 I saw at the recent Bimmerfest here in town had gummy hoses that were ready to break and make a big vacuum leak. The maintenance can be a bit expensive, but that is to be expected, it's a BMW M car, not a Honda. Like all BMWs, plastic cooling components can be a problem, various sensors will go bad (MAF, cam position, ect) valve cover gaskets, P/S hoses, etc. Just catch anything like that before it gets bad. Once again I highly recommend these cars despite my warnings above; heed those and hopefully you'll find a nice car!
Oh yeah, if you want 80% of the performance for less money, consider an E39 540i 6 spd. Absolutely awesome cars!
-Chris A.
Also, the M5s are known to have secondary air passages clog up, just like 993s (do a search of the 993 board here on Rennlist and on the M5 board). The valve guide material from the factory is too soft and lets carbon build up in the secondary air injection passages, eventually clogging them completely. This is a problem if you live in a state like CA where you have to pass emissions tests that check your OBDII readiness monitors. The clogged post cause a check engine light since the O2 sensors don't see the expected extra rush of air on cold start when the secondary air pump runs. Just clearing the code doesn't help either! Only true fix is to pull the heads and clear out the passages (and put in better valve guides!!!)--BMW has released a factory kit since we last did a top end on an M5 to make this easier (don't need to replace the heads unless of course they are cracked or warped or something).
OK, sorry to scare you there, but other than that the E39 M5 is as awesome car! There really is not a better all around performance/luxury car available. Great bang for the buck these days, but make sure you buy a low mileage one that's been taken care of, or one that's just had the top end done by a reputable shop. Do get a PPI and compression/leakdown tested. Also check the twin breather hoses that run along the front of the engine---these are an easy fix but every M5 I saw at the recent Bimmerfest here in town had gummy hoses that were ready to break and make a big vacuum leak. The maintenance can be a bit expensive, but that is to be expected, it's a BMW M car, not a Honda. Like all BMWs, plastic cooling components can be a problem, various sensors will go bad (MAF, cam position, ect) valve cover gaskets, P/S hoses, etc. Just catch anything like that before it gets bad. Once again I highly recommend these cars despite my warnings above; heed those and hopefully you'll find a nice car!
Oh yeah, if you want 80% of the performance for less money, consider an E39 540i 6 spd. Absolutely awesome cars!
-Chris A.
#6
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Droops83
Oh yeah, if you want 80% of the performance for less money, consider an E39 540i 6 spd. Absolutely awesome cars!
-Chris A.
-Chris A.
BTW, I used to race a high dollar, highly prepped '66 Shelby GT350, and I guarantee my stock M5 can do lower lap times.
Steve
#7
Drifting
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Heres a good checklist link for the E39 5 series model.
http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?...d=27&Itemid=55
I'm contemplating getting a BMW as a DD but I'm undecided on getting an E30, E36 or 5 series.
John
http://edgemotorworks.com/index.php?...d=27&Itemid=55
I'm contemplating getting a BMW as a DD but I'm undecided on getting an E30, E36 or 5 series.
John
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#9
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I don't know danoberer. It takes guts to come on the Rennlist 911 forum and post an "off topic" question about a sedan... Boy - you must be crazy!
Just kidding danster- best of luck with the 997S Cabrio choice versus the M5. You know my opinion - polar silver is the only color for a P-Cab! And if you get the M5, you will still be thinking about the 997S (and not the other way around).
-Blake
Just kidding danster- best of luck with the 997S Cabrio choice versus the M5. You know my opinion - polar silver is the only color for a P-Cab! And if you get the M5, you will still be thinking about the 997S (and not the other way around).
-Blake
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#10
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Originally Posted by mstupp
FWIW, I used to own a 1993 M5 and all around, it was the best car I've ever owned. I wish I had kept it. The sound of that engine was magnificent, like a symphony on wheels.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by mstupp
FWIW, I used to own a 1993 M5 and all around, it was the best car I've ever owned. I wish I had kept it. The sound of that engine was magnificent, like a symphony on wheels.
And when I looked at a real GT3 at the local BMW/Porsche dealership, thinking I would trade the M5 in on it, the service writer took me aside and said I would be making a big mistake. Took his advice.
Steve
00 M5
02 G500
84 Carrera Targa
64 356C
#13
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I have owned a 2002 325CiC (new) and a 2005 X3 (new). Cost of ownership on both cars was extremely low... I was very pleased with the reliability.
Did BMW have any reliability problems with the 5 series or M5? I had not heard anything to that effect...
Thanks,
-B
Did BMW have any reliability problems with the 5 series or M5? I had not heard anything to that effect...
Thanks,
-B
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#14
Rennlist Member
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Originally Posted by 94Speedster
I have owned a 2002 325CiC (new) and a 2005 X3 (new). Cost of ownership on both cars was extremely low... I was very pleased with the reliability.
Did BMW have any reliability problems with the 5 series or M5? I had not heard anything to that effect...
Thanks,
-B![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Did BMW have any reliability problems with the 5 series or M5? I had not heard anything to that effect...
Thanks,
-B
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#15
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by 94Speedster
I have owned a 2002 325CiC (new) and a 2005 X3 (new). Cost of ownership on both cars was extremely low... I was very pleased with the reliability.
Did BMW have any reliability problems with the 5 series or M5? I had not heard anything to that effect...
Thanks,
-B![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Did BMW have any reliability problems with the 5 series or M5? I had not heard anything to that effect...
Thanks,
-B
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Other issues tend to be stuff like control arm bushings, rear ball joints on E39s, leaky power steering hoses, valve cover gaskets, and of course electrical stuff/check engine lights, etc since BMWs are relatively complicated cars and tend to have many computers/modules/sensors onboard . . . . oh yeah and the automatic transmission cars, you DO need to change the ATF; "lifetime fill" means the lifetime of the transmission, which is in the 90-100k mile range if you never change the fluid, not of the car. If you change the ATF every 60k, it is kindof expensive but the tranny will last much longer.
However, don't let all this scare you, if you find a well maintained example, and understand that a BMW is a high performance automobile and not a Honda and budget some money for future repairs (and can afford to run one!) and fix anything BEFORE it becomes a big problem, you will be amazed at how competent of a car it is. I still like Porsches best and I work on those mostly, but I like BMWs too, and will definitely have some sort of M car as a family sedan if/when I need one!
--Chris A.