Alignment Problems
06-02-2007, 01:46 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Alignment Problems
A local mechanic I trust is not able to get my ’87 into Porsche recommended normal alignment specs, let alone what a trusted source suggested some time back:
Front camber - 1/2 degree neg.
Front toe - zero
Front caster - as close to 6 degrees as you can get
Rear camber - 1 degree neg.
Rear toe - zero
I replaced front wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods (turbo), sway bar bushings and Bilstein HD strut inserts into the Boge struts. Replaced rear shocks, sway bar bushings and spring plate bushings (Weltmeister Neatrix) and reset ride height by indexing torsion bars and tweaking the spring plate eccentrics. He says caster is too low in front, the right side is worse, and rear toe is 5/16” off resulting in a pull to the right. The car drove well until we reset ride height, but it was too high after replacing the shocks. We used the ground-to-fender lip method, 25.5” front and 25” rear. Any ideas of what to try next would be appreciated.
Front camber - 1/2 degree neg.
Front toe - zero
Front caster - as close to 6 degrees as you can get
Rear camber - 1 degree neg.
Rear toe - zero
I replaced front wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods (turbo), sway bar bushings and Bilstein HD strut inserts into the Boge struts. Replaced rear shocks, sway bar bushings and spring plate bushings (Weltmeister Neatrix) and reset ride height by indexing torsion bars and tweaking the spring plate eccentrics. He says caster is too low in front, the right side is worse, and rear toe is 5/16” off resulting in a pull to the right. The car drove well until we reset ride height, but it was too high after replacing the shocks. We used the ground-to-fender lip method, 25.5” front and 25” rear. Any ideas of what to try next would be appreciated.
06-03-2007, 02:29 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
I had a problem like yours and we finally found the car had somehow gotten twisted a little. Never was hit or damaged. The only thing that could have occurred was while I autocrossed, the stresses popped it out. I was always very aggressive & competitive with the car. We were able to get three corners in, but one was always out of tolerance. We finally had to tie it down with chains to the floor like is done when a frame needs straightening. After working over four hours, we finally got it to pop in and made the final adjustments. This may not be your problem, but it is deja vu for me. Good Luck!!.
06-03-2007, 04:18 PM
#6
Is the 5/16 on one side or both? Find out the toe for each rear wheel.
Regarding caster, get as much as possible then make them match. If you only get 5 on one side and 5.5 on the other, set them both to 5.
I don't care much for the rear alignment eccentrics. I like to to remove the adjusters entirely and move the trailing arm by hand. The car is jacked up at this point with no weight on the wheels.
Does this guy do torsion bar 911 alignments often, like a few every year?
Regarding caster, get as much as possible then make them match. If you only get 5 on one side and 5.5 on the other, set them both to 5.
I don't care much for the rear alignment eccentrics. I like to to remove the adjusters entirely and move the trailing arm by hand. The car is jacked up at this point with no weight on the wheels.
Does this guy do torsion bar 911 alignments often, like a few every year?
06-04-2007, 02:14 AM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Spider, I have suspected that the frame may need tweaking so in a painful kind of way your response is encouraging. The guy who worked on my car never did a 911 before. I don't have any options in Fairbanks and am now looking to Anchorage.
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06-04-2007, 01:38 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Der mond, I would suggest finding someone who has done Porsche's before because they are not forgiving. Gotta know where to pull that monocoque body to get it straight. Once you know the car is straight, the rest falls into place. Good Luck.
