Jay Gratton

I bet that paint can be saved. Take care of the guts of the car first (engine, brakes, tranny, etc.). But something fun you could start doing is buffing and polishing the paint to see what you can get back. I think you'll be happy with the results. Get some agressive poslish and start playing around and see what you can get.

jdogporsche

Yes, from the look of your pics, your paint will be just fine. You can most likely easily buff out the oxidation. I have a place I have taken mine to up here in Washington, and it is simply amazing what they can buff out.

jdogporsche

Yep...I will today hopefully.

NoVaGator

the white spots on the hood are "droppings" from a garage ceiling...apparently, it was that white powdery substance that you sometime see leaching out of wet concrete.

it suspect it was either very base or very acid...the white "stains" go quite deep.....we'll see how just how deep...I got a Porter Cable orbital and the necessary compounds.

I have a older 4Runner than has very oxidized paint which has never mattered since it's just a hunting truck - but I'm going to use that paint as my laboratory to get the hang of this orbital.

rentadate

I don't use orbitals for buffing things on. I use a regular multi-speed polisher/grinder. I swapped out the grinding plate for a 3M polishing pad that paint places use. I also use 3M on their restoration compounds. Pay a little $ up front but it turns out better. I admit I haven't used it on my targa due to: a.) no clear coat at a mile high and b.) its getting ground down to the metal and rebuilt on the 26th, so I could care less at this point. Back when I had my BMW that I myself painted in my TEC class of senior year, I used that thing when the car was freshly painted to "smooth" out any imperfections. worked great. Try that.

I mostly used the rubbing compound then I moved on to the finesse-it compound. After that, we used some kind of "special" (not that I think it made any difference), wax of some kind. I can't remember the stuff, but it came in an orange canister.

Also if you use a machine, be sure to tape and paper over any places you don't want compound, cause that stuff is a bitch to get off.

Amber Gramps

she looks great! now is when you remember that stock is good. the sterio may be loose wires. just clear out a spot in the garage and do one little thing at a time. don't rip it all apart. q-tips and fantastic is all that is required to restore this one. go slow. resist the temptation to "upgrade", that isn't all it's cracked up to be.

a new K&N air filter and fab speed airbox never hurts.

rgrimm

Don't neglect the Fuchs. If the anodizing will clean up, a simple spray of the black will do wonders. Rustoleum 7777 if I recall. If your hand is steady, you can even paint the crests with some Testors.

NoVaGator

So I took the PC to a small section:



This is only one pass with Poorboy's SSR 2.5 and a clay bar.

I think this will be just fine

Ed Hughes

Pelican isn't the only place to shop, thank goodness. Zim's, Performance Products, http://www.gprparts.com/ are all worth checking out. Prices can be all over the map, part to part, so a wise shopper will know what he's looking for and what market value is.

theiceman

The PC buffer is outstanding , now it is just a matter of pads and chemicals

good luck ..

2002M3Drew

If the wheels still have their anodized-finish lip intact, try plain old vasoline before anything else more severe...wakes them right up. (Clean them conventionally first, then apply coat of vasoline...wait vernight and buff off with clean terry.) If the black is faded or chipped up, satin black is great (Wurth, NAPA, whatever).

For the paint, after cleaning and claying the finish, try 3M Finesse-It 2 with a random orbital. The oxidation should come right off. I'd then top with Meguires Mirror Glaze #9, and finally Zymol Carbon Wax.

If you didn't have Gene do the brake fluid, I'd do that ASAP as well. I'd use ATE Type 200 (basically super blue w/out the blue dye). Flush the system good. If pads and rotors are worn, replace as well. While in there, check brake lines. If you end up doing rotors, new wheel bearings in front will be part of the deal (I'd recommend those anyway...cheap on a 911).

Replace air filter with new (stock) one. no need for K&N or anything like that.

Since it is an '88, check tires for wear and/or dryrot.

Enjoy the car! Once you get that red beauty all shined up for summer, it will be hard to stop driving it! Good luck!

NoVaGator

That's the plan...

this Poorboy's stuff has been working pretty well...I'm going to use their SSR 1 next, and then one of their waxes.

also part of the plan....depending on how the rotors measure, I'll replace them. And if I'm taking them off, I'll do bearings too. I have the lines, pads and caliper rebuild kit sitting on my shop bench. All I need is time, and a bunch of it.

I did the transmission fluid with M1 last night.

done

They need replacement for sure. They have plenty of tread, but dryrot too. If I can't resurrect the wheels, I'm going to send them to whasthisface in Cali for refinishing. I'll have new tires mounted after that.

thanks!

NoVaGator

Oh, on the wheel lips....anyone use Neverdull with good results?

ron mcatee

novagator, I used Neverdull on my polished lips and it worked OK. I think it would be ok to use it on Anodized lips, but try it in an isolated area of the wheel to see what it does.