Dumb Alignment question
#1
Instructor
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Sardis B.C. Canada
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When setting the rear toe or camber, should you unweight the rear wheels?
Seems like it might twist when you loosen the bolts...
Darrin.
Seems like it might twist when you loosen the bolts...
Darrin.
#2
Three Wheelin'
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No you do all alignment settings with the car sitting on its wheels, since you want the settings to be made at the way the car is going to be as it's driving down the road. Besides, when the weight is off the wheels they droop down and have a lot of positive camber in this position.
---Chris A.
---Chris A.
#3
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When measuring for the alignment, of course you want to be on the ground. The actual adjustments can be made unweighted.
For setting camber in the rear, I put the car up on the lift, loosen the trailing arm bolts then make my adjustments. The relationship of camber at droop and at ride height is pretty close to linear. My Car had 2 degrees negative at ride height and I wanted 2.5 negative. Up on the lift it had .7 degrees positive. I dialed that to .2 degrees positive and when I dropped it down I had the 2.5 negative I wanted.
Toe is the same. Take your measurements on the ground, then put the car up and loosen the bolts. Then measure the axle to a reference point on the chassis-I used the spring plate cover. Then you can go a little "more" or "less" toe. It's a little trial and error but you'll get it there.
I've never done it weighted, but if you do you'll need slip plates to let the wheels go to the settings you want. And I don't trust the eccentrics to hold anything once those trailing arm bolts are loose...especially if they are supporting the car.
For setting camber in the rear, I put the car up on the lift, loosen the trailing arm bolts then make my adjustments. The relationship of camber at droop and at ride height is pretty close to linear. My Car had 2 degrees negative at ride height and I wanted 2.5 negative. Up on the lift it had .7 degrees positive. I dialed that to .2 degrees positive and when I dropped it down I had the 2.5 negative I wanted.
Toe is the same. Take your measurements on the ground, then put the car up and loosen the bolts. Then measure the axle to a reference point on the chassis-I used the spring plate cover. Then you can go a little "more" or "less" toe. It's a little trial and error but you'll get it there.
I've never done it weighted, but if you do you'll need slip plates to let the wheels go to the settings you want. And I don't trust the eccentrics to hold anything once those trailing arm bolts are loose...especially if they are supporting the car.