theiceman

I remember once trying to get an axle nut off held on with 250lbs of torque 20 years ago and there was no way I was getting it off. I just put the wrench on it and backed up the car slowly when the wrench hit the ground the car started to go up , then there was a loud bang, my budy said a small puff of smoke came from the nut and I could take it off with my fingers ... some times desperate times call for desperate measures.....

dsmith

i've never ever, ever not been able to remove a lug nut with a breaker bar??? very strange. even if stripped it would break off the stud pretty easily. only suggestion is to get a longer bar!

one more, get a shop to loosen and retighten. probably won't charge you, if you go to where you buy tires.

Oshin11

I'll try a longer bar, as for going to where I get my tires, that is impossible since all the pipelines are disconnected and the reason I am trying to get the wheel off is because I need to in order to reach a pipe I am trying to remove.

Amber Gramps

oshin, you have multiple project going and I can't keep up. the wheel off is for the oil line, not the tie rod? I hope you don't have to remove the engine to change the channel on the radio.

Oshin11

yea doug, this thread turned into something else.....I am trying to remove the tired for the oil line, but I will do the same procedure for the tire rod.....the parts should be arriving together soon. I got the wheel off, despite some nasty noises coming from my breaker bar. You can see the two oil lines, I am having a ton of trouble getting them apart because they are not so snug with that bracket. Will WD-40 help? I covered the brake area with lots of cloth so the WD-40 doesnt spill into that area. Look at that nasty tie rod end! Anyways main question, will WD-40 help it come off? I have no torch for heat methods.

Marc Shaw

I bought a few lengths of cheap steel straight exhaust tubing and use it on my 1/2" socket driver to extend it out up to 6'.....nothing can withstand this!

Marc

Amber Gramps

are you now trying to remove the flex line from the hard line? if so, two crows feet or open ended tools should work. line them up close together and squeeze the heck out of them. or...place the wrench on the hard line flush with the fender wall pointing down, and the wrench on the flex line a notch off next to the other one and push it into the fender. may need to use feet but don't roll your fender in the process.

ya know, your oil lines don't look all that bad..........

Oshin11

Yea doug, those two werent the bad ones. They were jut 24 dollars each so I figured I should replace all the rubber parts while I am at it.

Amber Gramps

have you done any shopping at performance products, you said something about parts coming in....they have almost everything and are just off the 405 at rosco. (yes, by pimp my ride)

Oshin11

no i get all my parts from pelican. so anyone got an answer to my WD-40 question?

Marc Shaw

You'd be better off using something like LiquidWrench because, as far as penetrating oils go, WD40 is weak.

Marc

Amber Gramps

WD-40 does everything you ask it to do. it is diesel fuel in a can. you can get rid of rust one second and fire up your engine with it the next...(this coming from a guy that just blew up his rusty chevy)

Amber Gramps

help me out here. is it the bracket you want the WD-40 to work on or the hoses? use force, it works.

KC911

WD stands for (water displacement), and it's not a good penetrant (although it might help sometimes). Try PB Blaster, Wurth's Rost Off, etc. for better results. Oshin, I don't understand why you're messing with the oil lines either. Since you're learning as you go (nothing wrong with that), I suggest you keep your project simple (i.e. don't open your braking system by replacing hoses, unless you're ready to do it "'right") and focus on the ball joint replacement for now. Take it from someone who had their garage queen laying almost completely in pieces once upon a time..."while you're in there"..... As suggested, get some sections of pipe to fit over your breaker bar, and leverage will usually win.

Keith
'88 CE coupe

theiceman

1. forget the wd 40 get pb blaster or any rust disolver. But that is not your problem. Need leverage.
2. for the ite rods I have had great success with a small puller. hook it under conrol arm and push against the tie rod end. I like this method as you do not risk bending and jamming the control arm ( little risk anyway. )
3. If you are leaving you sway bar in place you may not be able to drop the tie rod enough to use as a wrench so you may need some big *** vice grips ...

that is all...