theiceman

Ed

what are you putting in, raceware studs ? I have seen them advertised in excellence but not sure if they are good.

Ed Hughes

I think that ARP has a better rep than the Racewares, but I'm going to go steel, I think. I can save $150 or so from the cost of a set of ARP's, ($495/set) and the steel seem to work well. I've got ARP rod bolts going in, however...well worth the $225/set.

theiceman

Do you get the steel ones from the dealer?

Ed Hughes

You can, but any of the aftermarket suppliers have'em too. I think it's a 993 part number, IIRC.

Ed Hughes

A little bit of an update.....

I got the head studs out today. I was a little apprehensive about this, due to some tales of woe encountered by others when removing them. But, they came out pretty easily for me. I used an inexpensive stud removal "collet" with three fingers that grab onto the 10mm threaded portion of the stud. Then, using a Mapp torch, I applied heat to the stud and to the case where the stud threads in. This melts the Loctite, and in the aspect of heating the case, it expands a bit allowing the studs to be unscrewed. I think the problem most people have had is not waiting until enough heat has been applied to do its job, and then they torque on the studs prematurely, breaking them. It only takes about 45-60 seconds to heat enough, based on what I did, and you see pretty quickly whether the studs are ready to turn. Next step: splitting the case.

theiceman

Great work and pics Ed


looks like you decided to replace all the studs..never a bad idea.

purplehaze.

Kudos for your patience, Ed! You were rewarded with no broken bolts. Nice.

Thanks for posting the pics. I didn't know about the MAPP gas or your clever collet tool. I'm sure I'll be using them both at a later dae. I used steel as well and they're working out just fine.

Great work!

Ed Hughes

My thoughts exactly.

Pedro356C

I'm drooling over the pics...thanks for sharing!

Ed Hughes

Well, it is now official. I've disassembled a 911 engine.

No surprises under the connecting rod bearings. They all looked good, as did all of the journals of the crankshaft. I did reload my parts washer with fresh solvent and started doing some cleaning too. That is going to be a loooonnnnnngggg job.

Eric Kessel

Looks great. I assume you put the cigar cutter to good use after removing the rods?

Ed Hughes

Yes, I had a nice Habano fired up to go with the Mojito sitting off to the side in the pic of the cams...smoke while you work. Removing the rods was actually the cleannest job I'd dont on the engine in a while.

BrokenE

Hey Ed,

Sorry I could not make it to the track here in Houston. How was the general mood of the Porsche camp towards Ferrari...re: the Sebring incident?

Excellent tips and tricks on your rebuild. A couple of questions: What's your goal with the reuild? Do the ARP studs have any advantage besides higher tensile strength than std steel? What pistons/rings are you puting in? Any head upgrades?

Ed Hughes

I think the attitude is that there are plenty more races this season...

The goal is a strong engine. I ran about 230 HP previously, I'll pick up a few more with an improved intake manifold and cams I think the studs really have their place in higher RPM engines. I don't think there is any case where the steel studs have failed in a normally aspirated engine like mine.

I'm hoping to reuse my pistons. The heads will get a 3 angle valve job and racing springs. I'll also be using ARP rod bolts. So, hopefully the engine will be more resistant to over-revs.

SeanR

Got an update for us?