squeeky front end
#1
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Finally recieved delivery of my 85 911. I love it and its running great. It has 50k original miles and the suspension seems fine except for a horrible squeek that developed the second day. It has had very few miles on it in the last ten years and has probably not seen a raindrop. Well it saw lots of it on its first day in Ontario and now that it has dried it makes a terrible rubbery sound squeek when you push down on the suspension coming from the front of the car. When you drive it squeeks like crazy. Any suggestions or simple fixes because it seems to all work correctly. Its a widebody if that makes any difference. Thanks for any ideas. Doug
#2
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there are 2 bushings on each of the front A arms. The stock rubber ones typically don't squeak, but I suppose they can if they get old and hard. I had plastic ones (aftermarket replacements) on my 71 and 84, and they squeaked. I would spray a lubricant in them and the squeaking would stop - until I drove in the rain and it got washed out. These weren't daily drivers, so it would last at least 6 months or so. I suppose the real fix would be to replace the bushings.
#3
Drifting
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Originally Posted by Crimson Nape Racing
there are 2 bushings on each of the front A arms. The stock rubber ones typically don't squeak, but I suppose they can if they get old and hard. I had plastic ones (aftermarket replacements) on my 71 and 84, and they squeaked. I would spray a lubricant in them and the squeaking would stop - until I drove in the rain and it got washed out. These weren't daily drivers, so it would last at least 6 months or so. I suppose the real fix would be to replace the bushings.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by dsmyth
Finally recieved delivery of my 85 911. I love it and its running great. It has 50k original miles and the suspension seems fine except for a horrible squeek that developed the second day....
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Keith
'88 CE coupe
#7
RL Technical Advisor
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Doug:
There are two main sources of such noises:
1) Squeaking from a front torsion bar rubbing inside the A-arm. This is due to sagging rubber A-arm bushings that allow the torsion bar to move off-center and rub the inside of the A-arm. This is temporarily fixed by spraying a teflon-based lube into the tube, just behind the adjuster. The real fix is new bushings and there are several options.
2) Front sway bar bushings. Spray the same lube at both sides of the rubber bushings and that may help. The real cure is new bushings and lubricated with a teflon grease at installation.
There are two main sources of such noises:
1) Squeaking from a front torsion bar rubbing inside the A-arm. This is due to sagging rubber A-arm bushings that allow the torsion bar to move off-center and rub the inside of the A-arm. This is temporarily fixed by spraying a teflon-based lube into the tube, just behind the adjuster. The real fix is new bushings and there are several options.
2) Front sway bar bushings. Spray the same lube at both sides of the rubber bushings and that may help. The real cure is new bushings and lubricated with a teflon grease at installation.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Doug:
There are two main sources of such noises:
1) Squeaking from a front torsion bar rubbing inside the A-arm. This is due to sagging rubber A-arm bushings that allow the torsion bar to move off-center and rub the inside of the A-arm. This is temporarily fixed by spraying a teflon-based lube into the tube, just behind the adjuster. The real fix is new bushings and there are several options.
2) Front sway bar bushings. Spray the same lube at both sides of the rubber bushings and that may help. The real cure is new bushings and lubricated with a teflon grease at installation.
There are two main sources of such noises:
1) Squeaking from a front torsion bar rubbing inside the A-arm. This is due to sagging rubber A-arm bushings that allow the torsion bar to move off-center and rub the inside of the A-arm. This is temporarily fixed by spraying a teflon-based lube into the tube, just behind the adjuster. The real fix is new bushings and there are several options.
2) Front sway bar bushings. Spray the same lube at both sides of the rubber bushings and that may help. The real cure is new bushings and lubricated with a teflon grease at installation.
#9
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Originally Posted by Crimson Nape Racing
there are 2 bushings on each of the front A arms. The stock rubber ones typically don't squeak, but I suppose they can if they get old and hard. I had plastic ones (aftermarket replacements) on my 71 and 84, and they squeaked. I would spray a lubricant in them and the squeaking would stop - until I drove in the rain and it got washed out. These weren't daily drivers, so it would last at least 6 months or so. I suppose the real fix would be to replace the bushings.
+1
there are 2 bushings on each of the front A arms. The stock rubber ones typically don't squeak, but I suppose they can if they get old and hard. I had plastic ones (aftermarket replacements) on my 71 and 84, and they squeaked. I would spray a lubricant in them and the squeaking would stop - until I drove in the rain and it got washed out. These weren't daily drivers, so it would last at least 6 months or so. I suppose the real fix would be to replace the bushings.
+1
#10
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems
Doug:
There are two main sources of such noises:
1) Squeaking from a front torsion bar rubbing inside the A-arm. This is due to sagging rubber A-arm bushings that allow the torsion bar to move off-center and rub the inside of the A-arm. This is temporarily fixed by spraying a teflon-based lube into the tube, just behind the adjuster. The real fix is new bushings and there are several options.
There are two main sources of such noises:
1) Squeaking from a front torsion bar rubbing inside the A-arm. This is due to sagging rubber A-arm bushings that allow the torsion bar to move off-center and rub the inside of the A-arm. This is temporarily fixed by spraying a teflon-based lube into the tube, just behind the adjuster. The real fix is new bushings and there are several options.
I just installed the Poly-Bronze bushings from Elephant and what a difference ! Highly recommended !!
#11
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Thanks for the input as my only 911 experience was with a 964. It sounds like the polly bronze control arm fix and new sway bar bushings are the answer. Now it sounds like new wheel bearings are in order.Even with the low mileage I guess time takes its toll. Doug
#12
Burning Brakes
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I doubt that your wheel bearings need replacing at 50K miles, but the fronts are very easy to replace "while you're in there". Time sure takes its toll on bushings, etc. but in my experience, bearings & CV joints, etc. shouldn't need replacing so soon, and just need to be inspected, repacked, and adjusted if necessary.
Keith
'88 CE coupe
Keith
'88 CE coupe