mark911928

no post

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi Mark:

Not to worry Sir, just keep driving it until you can deal with this properly in a reasonable (not infinite) time frame.

You have 2 issues to stay ahead of;

1) Oil level. This should be easy.

2) Excessive carbon buildup. This is a little more serious as the oil consumption creates more carbon inside the engine. This increases the mechanical compression ratio and lowers the threshold of detonation.

Deal with the former by watching that oil level like a hawk and NEVER believe the oil level guage as gospel. The dipstick is THE only reliable way to know exactly how much oil you have in the system.
Deal with the latter by using Techron often, and religously. Decrease your current oil change intervals.

mark911928

Steve,

Thanks for the great, quick response.

Just a couple of questions concerning your response: Is there a type of oil (synthetic or dino) that works best for '87 3.2's w/this condition?

Why the REDUCTION in oil changes?? I currently change oil every 3,000 miles on all my cars. What value to my situation is there in decreasing the oil changes??

I'll start using the Techron immediately!

mschafer71

Mark, I have a 88 3.2 with 74000 that I have owned for almost a year. The engine is running very well except for a small oil leak at the base of the #4 cylinder. I had on and off (cold mostly) smoking and was concerned that my valve seals and/or guides were showing wear. The valves are not noisy at all and when the temp. is approaching the top of the warm up band of the temp. gauge the smoking is gone. I put techron in the car every other tank for a while and i noticed(be warned) the first tankful gave lots of smoke. I guess I got rid of some built up carbon. I think this is similar to the days when we sprayed carb cleaners down the throats of carbs and they belched clouds of gray smoke whilst cleaning the carbs. When the engine is cold and I'm going downhill with my foot of the gas i can see smoke in my side view mirror, i think this is a sign that i'm sucking oil thru the stems/or rings into the combustion chamber. I'm using 10-30W syn Mobil 1 and also have noticed using about 1 qt. per 500 miles but do drive in the upper end of the rpm range once i'm warmed up. I have'nt got a compression test lately or had my lower covers off to check for lateral valve play. Let me know how your tests go. Compression test for piston rings/valves.Remove valve covers for physical exam of lateral movement in valves and valve gap for guide wear assessment. I may also have a stud issuse that i can check when my valve covers come off. I think i may change to 20-50 Mobil 1 also. Mark

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

[quote]Originally posted by mark911928:
<strong>Steve,

Thanks for the great, quick response.

Just a couple of questions concerning your response: Is there a type of oil (synthetic or dino) that works best for '87 3.2's w/this condition?

Why the REDUCTION in oil changes?? I currently change oil every 3,000 miles on all my cars. What value to my situation is there in decreasing the oil changes??

I'll start using the Techron immediately!</strong><hr></blockquote>

Hi Mark:

My pleasure, Sir.

I'm a fan of synthetic oil in these air-cooled engines and this is what I'd use, especially with your low mileage. When you ultimately fix this right, all you should need is a top end job so I'd use & recommend a synthetic.

I recommended a reduction in INTERVAL, not fewer oil changes,.... In other words, change it more often to flush out the excessive combustion byproducts. I'd change the oil & filter every 2K until you do that valve job and install better-than-factory valve guides.

mark911928

Thanks Steve!

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

I'm beginning the changes this evening.

Really appreciate your advice and quick responses.

As I said before, fantastic board. Look forward to contributing when I can!!!

<img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />