tone40

I followed the Bentley manual directions yesterday. I adjusted the cable and the manual adjuster (through the brake rotor).

The parking brake does not fully stop the car when set.

The travel on the hand lever seems satisfactory. The manual says to move the adjuster until the shoes stop the rotor movement, then back off 4 clicks. If my shoes are worn more than average should I have backed off only 2 or 6 clicks?


My 88 has ~123K miles. How long do the shoes normally last?

der Mond

My '87 at 118K miles would barely be stopped with the handle pulled really tight. Upon removal of the rotors (not too hard a process) I found that on the right side the shoes were worn to nothing and one of the shoes had disconnected itself at one end. I think that e-brakes are rarely inspected and often neglected. I opted for new rotors and shoes and now the adjustent process in the Bently Manual produces the results it's supposed to. Just changing out the shoes is not too hard. Take the rotors off and take a look.

der Mond

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...el/e-brake.htm

tone40

When I get the time, I will revamp the whole rear brake system (pads, rotors, hardware, caliper bolts, springs, etc.). Brake pads still have adequate thickness. Rotors are not at the minimum yet (.9010 vs .8900 min.).

The shoes are totally shot! The hardware is still intact, but any hand brake adjustment does not hold the car one bit. The parking brake drum surface is scored and even has some stress cracks across the drum width (3 on the driver side, 2 on the passenger side. Even though I circled 4 on one of the photos.). The rotor surfaces do not show any defects from these inside cracks.

Do I need any special tools to R & R the shoes? I do not have a spring compressor and I done 240Z shoes before without the use of one.

I will have to park the car in gear in lieu of using the parking brake for a while. Hopefully, not too long a duration.

KC911

I replaced all of my e-brake hardware a few years ago (a while you're in there project), and it's pretty straight forward (w/ no special tools required). However, if I backed off 4 clicks, it was too much, so as I recall, I ended up backing off just a click or two. Which reminds me...I need to adjust mine since they've worn just a bit since then.

Keith
'88 CE coupe

gunlover05

I have the same problem...I recently tried adjusting them and could only get the passengers side to work out right...i tried and tried on the drivers side to no avail...i haven't pulled the rotors, but I am pretty sure that the drivers side shoes are worn completely out...i'm sure that someone has driven the car with the ebrake up many times and worn them out...who the dumbass is that did this a bunch I don't know ...wish it had a buzzer or something more obvious than that little light off to the side...

theiceman

I just did this recently and was a good weekend project.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=brake

I will add a couple of pics from before ..

I found also that 2 clicks was enough. I actually found it more important to adjust axial play so when inspecting through the lever holes the bar was parallel, After I got that everything was fine. The tricky part is when you are playing with te axial play don't get it so loose that the spring plates don't fall off the actuator, or you are taking it off again.

The one tool I did find usefull was a pair of needle nose vice grips for doing the sptings. I set them to the right distance , pushed the cap in and used a pair of needle nose pliers to turn the tiny retainer.

theiceman

it's less of a buzzer and more like a grinding sound ... :-)

der Mond

I agree, it's not a hard job and not all that expensive, considering. Nice helpful pics, Iceman.