YES YES I have read several threads and my 101.

Yet I wish to ask you guys the following.

Prior to working on her I want to power wash each wheel well one at a time. My drive way is slanted and I cant use my HP washer in the garage.

WHEN I start the exhaust and rear bushings where do I place my jack stands and jack???????


Thanks for your help fellas

 

Sounds pretty dangerous if you or on a slanted driveway. You would put the jackstands on the rear torsion bars, but regardless if you are perpendicular or parallel to the driveway, the car would tip off the jackstand and either kill you or seriously damage your car. Seriously. No way would I do that...

To jack the car up I wouldn't do the Wayne suggestion of directly putting the jack on the sump plate. I did that, but after dropping my engine and taking off my sump plate I realized how not so good an idea that is. You are putting your entire car's rear weight on the center of the engine crankcase where you don't want to cause a leak or else it would mean a complete rebuild. And you are damaging the sump plate which has a gasket, then a metal filter, then another gasket.

I am a big believer in the jack plate into the side of the car receptacles and lift up one side at a time, and not all the way up the first lift so the car doesn't fall off the jack stand. Doug on the board showed me how to do this and I will never do it any other way again. Hope that helps. Be safe!

 

There really is no problem using the sump plate... myself, and many others do it all the time with out any negative effects.

 

I stick a hockey puck on my jack to prevent damage to the sump plate .. but hey ... what else would i use ?? :-)

 

I've heard that the sump plate can actually become bent inward from the weight, and block flow? That when my mechanic told me anyway. He recommends, using a floor jack and a hockey puck or small piece of wood or similar, jacking right behind the sump plate. When the car is up, you support with jack stands under the torsion bar tubes, and allow the weight to reat on the jackstands.

 

Just go down and do it in the street.

 

I have a Billet sump plate and so far not damage and/or leaks.

I just use a wooden board or hockey puck

I keep a hockey puck in the glovebox of each car in case a fight breaks out

John

 

Prehaps you could get some of those good looking Texas ladies to help you get your 911 up.

Seriously, be careful on a slope. I would try to park at a 90 to the grade and lift one side at a time. You can lift one side up quite high, with two wheels chocked and on the ground.

Slide show with wet T's optional.

 

been using the sump plate for over 25yrs and never ever a problem....sometimes i put a block of wood on the jack plate and sometimes I don't. Just lift slowly.

 

Ummmmm....no you wouldn't. He can't do new bushings if it's supported there.

Go to the 4 corners of the floor pan, where the embossing is curved, and strong. You'll end up setting the jackstands there with 2X4 or 1X4 pieced to "pad" them.
both your front and rear will be clear to work on the suspension. But, this should be on the level. FWIW, these are the same points I (and many others) use when we have them on our scissor lifts.

As stated above, jacking from the center of the motor is OK, there have been a lot of people using this method, again with a wood pad, and no problems.

 

I always put chock blocks under the front or rear wheels depending on what I'm doing. A 2x4 piece of white pine about a foot long is adequate. I cut a slight bevel on one side so they can slip up next to the tire tread. Then I roll the car all the way forward so there is contact with the block. Using the engine or the jacking plate is your choice, both have worked well for me. This prevents the car from rolling.

 

I was talking to my brother about this and the way he jacks the front is as follows:
Roll the car onto some 2X4's to get some headd room to remove the metal stone gaurd plate that is in between to torsion bars.

Then place the jack underneath the cross member, in the middle, and lift it high enough until you have enough clearance to place the jackstands in the corners at the back of the wheel well near the pinch welds (out of the way of the A/C & oil lines)

He has been using this method since the 70's.

John

 

Hmmm....I've never heard of anyone removing the crossmember cover to jack the car. That would turn a very simple event into a much more complex event than it needs to be. Simply jacking hgh enough from the jack point at the rear t-bars allows you to get the front wheel high enough to rest on a 4X4. Then you can get a jack at the end of the crossmember and go from there without removing anything. All this is moot, as the original question was the rear, and we're talking front here.