hello !

I'm looking very seriously to buy a 1969T. I will make my decision next week. The car look perfect. it's a 1 owner car. 79K miles on the motor and the guy spent over 35K last year to put the car in a very nice shape. I don't really know the quality of this model year but i really like the style. Can somebody give me advice regarding that car. 9.5/10 for outside(body , paint), and also 10/10 for inside. (Perfect seat, dash carpet). What should i pay for this car.

thank you.

 

If it's as nice as you say, then this car could sell for anywhere between $25,000 and $40,000 depending on it's mechanical condition. "T's" are desireable for their driveability.

These are solid, robust cars that have extremely high appeal right now in the marketplace. I'm not sure I'd subject one of these cars to daily driving chores or track use if it's cosmetically nice. However, it's an old performance car and will take some cash to keep in nice condition.

These cars are insanely fun to drive. You can't buy anything new that duplicates how these sound and feel.

What is your intended use for such a car?

Good Luck,

Jay
90 964, 84 3.2

 

There is a few questions that quickly come to mind: Do you do your own work? Is there a good shop or dealership that specializes in older porsches? How deep is your wallet?
I've just completed the second pre-purchase inspection for a client of mine on a couple older 911's....the first, a 68'S; was advertized as a recent restoration from Florida...my client already bought it and I spent 5 hours "picking " it apart.The car was a piece of garbage. The restoration was done ,in my opinion; extremely poor.This was a car that is very rare and was never offically imported into the U.S. at all.Well...to make a real long story short...the engine was running on only 5 clyinders,had only 30 pounds compression in that hole. The bodywork on this vehicle was also no where near the quality you would expect for a classic rare vehicle.My "hti list" was almost 5 full pages long and provided the potential owner with enough information to make an educated decision. Well needless to say, I had the car sent back and my client had a little war with the seller...but eventually came to an agreement. The car, by the way sold for 42,000.00$.
The second car I just gave the ok to purchase is a 1970"S" 2.2 ltr. MFI. About the same milage as yours...all original body...slight bubbles in a few areas.the suspension and drivetrain are in outstanding condition as well as the floorpans.Just remember a little rule I tell everyone who buys a used car from anyone...expect to spend at least a thousand dollars above your purchase price to get the "bugs" out of her.
As the seller of this car said to me when I was inspecting the car,"you can hear these cars rot out while they sit if you listen hard enough".
The car's price started at 45K $...and eventually went for 42.5K $. Was it worth it? If you really like that body style...this car was a decent buy.
Just get a pre-purchase iinspection done from an independent so at least you have some ammo to haggle the price. I hope this helps. Russ

 

PPI, PPI, PPI.

 

Thank you very much for your help. For sure i will do the PPI. I just bought the book from Peter Zimmerman , and i took a few note. I can't make a mistake. It's a big investment for me and i need to choose the right car. I will use it only when it's good wheater, around 2500-3000K miles per year. I did the same with my 1975 Targa right now and i hope to keep these car as long as i can. The guy who want to sell me this car is a 70 year old men. He bought this car brand new in 69. I want to take car of it like he did.

Can someone told me about the weber carburator????
Is it difficult to adjust...a friend of mine told me that the better system is MFI. Very more simple...is that true????

What do you think about only 110 horsepower in this car. It's the lowes 911 Hp for the early 911.
Do you think it will be boring to drive. I have no idea about the power of 110 Hp.

Thank again for your help.

 

If you're buying this car for strictly speed, then maybe a more modern car is necessary.

Keep in mind these are very light cars as compared to modern cars. Power to weight ratios are helped out quite a bit since there is little weight present (again, compared to modern cars).

However, these cars are all about feel. 110 hp won't break any records, but you'll still have fun driving it. You MUST drive this car to see if you are O.K. with the lower power levels in these older cars. I bet you'll still like it...!

Jay

 

Yes, definitely get a PPI from a good Porsche specialist!

As for the Webers, get a book on how to adjust them, it's not so bad. It is imperitive to run clean gas through them, use several inline filters! The idle jets clog really easily! The bores for the shafts for the throttle butterflies can and will wear out, allowing more air to leak past the butterflies than should. This manifests itself in a fluttering sound almost like rocker/valve noise when you first open the throttles, and will go away if you hold the butterfly shaft down w/ your hand. Many people will simply set the idle lower to compensate, but the only true fix is replacement, and good used Webers are hard to find. If yours are in good shape and tuned properly, they are excellent, with great throttle response and sound! If your carbs are worn out and you're willing to bite a $3k+ bullet, PMO carburetors are amazing! They completely reengineered the Weber design, eliminating all the design flaws including the throttle shaft bore issue. We have put in a few sets so far and they are simply fantastic, and Richard @ PMO is so knowledgeable that if you tell him what kind of engine you're running (displacement, compression, cams, etc) he will jet them pretty damn close to what you need, and we have usually been able to bolt em on, do some minor adjustment and the car runs like a champ! A great investment!

As for MFI, it is also a great system and works great, if all the components are in good shape! If not, it is expensive to rebuild the injection pump, and is time-consuming to set up from scratch. All of the linkages (there are many) have to be exactly the correct length and angle, no binding, etc. In fact, there is a factory set of protractors to make sure the angles for all the throttle body linkages are correct! (although these are only necessary when setting up from scratch, I think my shop has only used em a half dozen times in the close to 40 years it's been open!) But, the nice thing about MFI is that once it is set up and tuned correctly, it will run nicely for a long time w/ very little fiddling. The throttle response/sound are similar to the Webers and the gas mileage is a bit better since a more precise amount of fuel is being injected. Not to mention, the MFI system is simply fascinating and cool, the injection pump is like a mechanical brain! Also the RS/RSR and 935s and 917s, etc all used this system, very cool! However, the MFI didn't work very well on the '72-early 73 2.4 Ts, since the cams were so mild they always had a flat spot, and you'd have to run em pretty damn rich to minimize this . . . . also if you make any changes to the engine, even a free flow exhaust, you need to change the space cam inside the injection pump and retune, otherwise it'll run horribly; MFI cars are very sensitive. So to summarize, if your carbs are worn out, find good used ones or switch to PMOs; converting to MFI would be really cool, but would be really expensive, more so than the PMOs and the parts are tricky to find.

Oh yeah, of course 110 hp won't make for a super fast car, but it does not matter: early 911s are incredibly fun to drive, even the Ts! When they are running correctly, the throttle response and the sound are amazing and you will have a big smile on your face at all times. Even though it is down 50 hp, the T is actually more driveable around town than the S. All of the S's hp is up high, as in 5000 rpm and up! Up until then it isn't any faster than the T.

Anyway good luck, I hope this car turns out to be nice!

---Chris A.

 

Chris is so right on the fact that these early cars are an absolute hoot to drive. You won't care if it's got 110 hp or 160 hp, it'll be fun no matter what. Every time I jump in my brother's '70T, I'm laughin' like a little kid from the sounds and feel. A couple of hard runs up through the gears and you'll be hooked. It's incredible!

 

i really appreciate all your help. I will take in consideration your tips!
Hope the transaction will be find. I have and appointment to see the car next thusday.
If the PPI is correct, i close it.

For the 110HP, i know is not a lot of power, but is not a problem, i'm not looking for fast car. I want good sound , good driving feeling on quiet road, that it. I just don't want to be overpass by a 49 cc scooter!!!

 

Peter Mogan's book "Original Porsche 911" lists a 0-62 mph time for the 1968 and 1969 911 T as 8.3 seconds (take a 1/10th or two off for the 0-60 mph time). The top speed is 124 mph.

Weight is listed as 1075 kg which is about 2370 pounds.

 

Inspection for RUST is a major concern on these early cars. My 69 T was a rust bucket that most people would have stripped for parts and crushed. I had to make a "rotisseri" and weld-in nearly every replacement panel that is currently made for them. But for me, I WANTED a "project car" and it's sort of a personal challenge to save an old car and put this basket case back on the road. It will be finished by Spring but it has taken me ...5 years!!

Inspections by people knowledgable in WHERE these cars rust is critical. Spend the money up front to have a pre-purchase inspection. You will be way ahead!

 

I can't really add much (Chris's post is excellent!) except to say that the "T" can really deliver years of fun provided that the car is rust-free, which must be confirmed by somebody who knows and loves the older 911s. Long hood 911s have experienced huge gains in value over the last couple of years, and to find one that has been well cared for, and technically correct, is becoming a rare find. David Kinney's "Cars That Matter" pegs your car, in #2 condition, at a value of $25,800 (coupe), more for a Targa. Check their website at www.carsthatmatter.com. PPI, PPI, PPI!
Pete

 

Hello Pete!

Can you tell me the value for a number 1 condition. I just want to see the difference between both 1 and 2. For a number 1 condition....is it only a showroom car or it could be a driver car in top condition????

 

Kinney refers to a #1 car as "one of the best in the world." "Groomed to the tire treads," is another term that he uses to describe concour winning cars, in other words, they don't get driven any more, they're a proper color and finished with materials that are "correct and superbly fitted." Check out his website - lot's of info including a detailed outline of their #4 through #1 categories.
Pete