need advice on 911SC purchase
#1
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I currently own a 944S and have owned a 911 in the past.I really was not looking for another 911 but came across what appears to be a nice car.The car is a 1983-911SC with 96k miles,all original paint and clean interior.I have spoken to the owner,he is the 3rd,and has all records since new.The car has had the headstuds replaced and while the cylinders were off a new set of rings installed.It also has new cam chains,rails but no Carrera tensioners.It also has had the clutch,pressure plate and synchros replaced.I have spoken to the shop that did the work and they said that all this work has been performed and the car is in great shape.Also many little things have been done like a Mocal cooler has been added and just a lot of little maint. items have been performed.I am looking at the car this weekend,the price is under $14,000.00,what do you think?Thanks <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#7
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Well I went to look at the car today,the owner was not there but his wife was so she unlocked the car for me.The car has 96k miles like stated earlier,the interior is clean except both front seats are ripped,but the dash has no cracks and door vinyl,armrests etc. are in very good shape.The car has the sunroof delete option,which I like.The AC compressor and condensor have been removed but I spoke to the owner and he said he will pay to have it installed and recharged.The glove compartment was full of repair receipts dating back to the original invoice from when the car was purchased in South Florida.The heads have not been touched but the cylinder studs have been replaced plus rings.I am going to take the car for a spin early next week and see how it runs.Thanks for the replys,I really appreciate it. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
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#8
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Sounds like a good car. I think that NOT having a cylinder head rebuild is a plus, because most (nearly all) shops butcher the heads. I would consider it an advantage to be able to control this work. Also, at 96,000 miles, you surely have some meaningful wear in the exhaust guides, but you'll probably be able to run the car quite a while before you need to take the engine apart again.
My only caution would be that you'd better budget a couple of grand to get the a/c up to Florida standards. Even if the owner installs the compressor and gives the car a freon charge, it won't last for long. Also, are the seats torn along the stitching, or has the upholstery material given out? Torn stitching is relatively cheap and easy to fix. Recovering seats is another grand plus.
Your purchase price should reflect these things, in my opinion
My only caution would be that you'd better budget a couple of grand to get the a/c up to Florida standards. Even if the owner installs the compressor and gives the car a freon charge, it won't last for long. Also, are the seats torn along the stitching, or has the upholstery material given out? Torn stitching is relatively cheap and easy to fix. Recovering seats is another grand plus.
Your purchase price should reflect these things, in my opinion
#9
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Thanks for the input guys,to Toms point I will be listening for valve rattle when I go hear the car run,and the passenger seat is just seams coming apart,the drivers side it is seams and the material has split,I would cover with a seat cover short term.I agree with the AC comment,but then I have not talked to many people that are thrilled with the pre 1990 cars regarding AC performance,so I don't know what to expect.I will post the results of the test drive. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#10
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Well I went and drove the car and it drove great!!When I arrived the car was under the cover,I met the owner and we went and uncovered the car.I had him raise the engine cover and I felt the engine to make sure it was cold,which it was.I had the owner start the car,it fired right up,idled great and no smoke or valve clatter,it sounded perfect.We then went for a test drive and everything felt fine and tight,the steering,brakes,clutch and shifting felt just like I remember from my 1974-911S.The owner assured me he will have the AC fixed before I buy,I think I am going to buy it,what do you guys think?Thanks for the help guys. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#11
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You really should get a full pre-purchase inspection done by an independent mechanic but, at the very least, GET A COMPRESSION TEST DONE. If you're down a cylinder, that bargain SC will start looking like a nightmare (with rebuilds in the ~$8-10,000 range). It'll be the best $200-300 you'll ever spend.
#12
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Recommend you do a good check out. Below link has a good check list:
<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/tec...1_checklist.txt" target="_blank">http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/tec...1_checklist.txt</a>
I caught a lot of stuff using this that wasn't by the Porsche shop that did my PPI...
Recommend you be very specific on what you want inspected if you get a PPI. I wasn't and got back a lame PPI from a Porsche place in Richmond. If you follow the Pelican list you can catch most of the stuff. About the only thing you can't tell for sure is what kind of shape the motor is in. Driving should give a good feel for the engine, trans and brakes but a good shop ought to be able to tell you more.
I would recommend you do the visual and specify to the shop to check:
Engine: Compression or leak down (about $90-150). Potential sources of oil leaks. NVA you probably want an emissions test done, should tell you how well the thing is tuned as well (i.e. running lean/rich). You may want the valve covers removed to check on head studs (about $160). Check condition of exhaust system and heater system.
Transmission/Drive train: Driving should tell all... Only thing a shop can do is look for leaks. Have them check the CV joints for cracked boots and play.
Brakes: I should have specified to check calipers and rotors. Rotors - can they be ground or need replaced w/next pad change? Pad's - how much wear/life?
Electrical: Looking back I would have had them test the alt.
Also specify if you want an estimate for items found that need repair. Having a shop's dollar figures behind you can help you bargain to your price.
I added some of my own stuff to the Pelican check list (more specific on electrical and other stuff). If you want a copy PM me with your E-mail address and I will shoot it to you.
I spent $160 on my PPI and all I got back that was worth anything was the compression test (which should run about $60...). Again, be specific.
Good luck, sounds like a nice car.
Gordo
<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/tec...1_checklist.txt" target="_blank">http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/tec...1_checklist.txt</a>
I caught a lot of stuff using this that wasn't by the Porsche shop that did my PPI...
Recommend you be very specific on what you want inspected if you get a PPI. I wasn't and got back a lame PPI from a Porsche place in Richmond. If you follow the Pelican list you can catch most of the stuff. About the only thing you can't tell for sure is what kind of shape the motor is in. Driving should give a good feel for the engine, trans and brakes but a good shop ought to be able to tell you more.
I would recommend you do the visual and specify to the shop to check:
Engine: Compression or leak down (about $90-150). Potential sources of oil leaks. NVA you probably want an emissions test done, should tell you how well the thing is tuned as well (i.e. running lean/rich). You may want the valve covers removed to check on head studs (about $160). Check condition of exhaust system and heater system.
Transmission/Drive train: Driving should tell all... Only thing a shop can do is look for leaks. Have them check the CV joints for cracked boots and play.
Brakes: I should have specified to check calipers and rotors. Rotors - can they be ground or need replaced w/next pad change? Pad's - how much wear/life?
Electrical: Looking back I would have had them test the alt.
Also specify if you want an estimate for items found that need repair. Having a shop's dollar figures behind you can help you bargain to your price.
I added some of my own stuff to the Pelican check list (more specific on electrical and other stuff). If you want a copy PM me with your E-mail address and I will shoot it to you.
I spent $160 on my PPI and all I got back that was worth anything was the compression test (which should run about $60...). Again, be specific.
Good luck, sounds like a nice car.
Gordo
#13
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Sunroof delete is very rare in US cars. It is much more common on Euro 911s so I would check to see if it is a Euro. A Euro will bring a lower price and have a higher horsepower - win win in my book.
-Chris
-Chris
#14
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Well here is a update on this car,I have looked at a couple of other cars but something keeps pulling me back to this 1983-911SC,so I am having a PPI done tomorrow.This car seems to be screaming to me to buy it,it looks good,drives good,so we will see what the PPI says.I have received a clean Carfax report on the car,just one more piece of the puzzle.I have a verbal agreement with the owner on the price pending the inspection.And yes it is a US sunroof delete car according to the vin #,pretty rare.I will post the results of the PPI.Stay tuned. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#15
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Well I had the PPI done this morning by the shop that I use and the report was excellent.The worst thing they found was a leaking hose from the oil tank and a little leaking from the tranny,thats about it.The compression numbers were 175 lbs. for 5 cylinders and 170 in the 6th,not bad at all!!!They said they new the previous owner and he was very meticulous about maintaining the car,so I bought it.I will be picking the car up next week,I can't wait.Thanks to all that gave me advice,I really appreciate it.I now am the proud owner of a 1983-911SC and a 1987-944S. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
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Superdave312 (08-30-2020)