Oil leak on 88 Carrera...
12-14-2006, 09:54 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil leak on 88 Carrera...
I believe that it is the oil pressure warning light unit or oil line thermostat.
I checked the archives on the subject and my issue sounds very similar to that of Joseph Mills (8/24/06). Oil is leaking on the exhaust collector. I have stopped driving it until the fix.
I am tempted to fix it myself, but I would like a bit of advice first:
(a) Is it difficult to remove the air filter enclosure and attached fuel box? I see a few hoses and mounting brackets that are attached to/behind these. I think there are some rear or internal enclosure bolts that need to come off. I want to be sure that I am able to get full access to the area (and not have to re-assemble/regret having started the project).
(b) Any special tools other than a 24mm deep socket?
(c) Any parts that I should order before any removals?
(d) Any other words of advice or warnings? Will the culprits be fused to the case?
(e) Best way to remove oil accumulations from the exhaust piping without using any combustibles?
My previous repair experiences taught me to have an exit strategy.
Thanks.
I checked the archives on the subject and my issue sounds very similar to that of Joseph Mills (8/24/06). Oil is leaking on the exhaust collector. I have stopped driving it until the fix.
I am tempted to fix it myself, but I would like a bit of advice first:
(a) Is it difficult to remove the air filter enclosure and attached fuel box? I see a few hoses and mounting brackets that are attached to/behind these. I think there are some rear or internal enclosure bolts that need to come off. I want to be sure that I am able to get full access to the area (and not have to re-assemble/regret having started the project).
(b) Any special tools other than a 24mm deep socket?
(c) Any parts that I should order before any removals?
(d) Any other words of advice or warnings? Will the culprits be fused to the case?
(e) Best way to remove oil accumulations from the exhaust piping without using any combustibles?
My previous repair experiences taught me to have an exit strategy.
Thanks.
12-14-2006, 11:57 PM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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oil leak
[QUOTE=tone40]I believe that it is the oil pressure warning light unit or oil line thermostat.
I checked the archives on the subject and my issue sounds very similar to that of Joseph Mills (8/24/06). Oil is leaking on the exhaust collector. I have stopped driving it until the fix.
I am tempted to fix it myself, but I would like a bit of advice first:
(a) Is it difficult to remove the air filter enclosure and attached fuel box? I see a few hoses and mounting brackets that are attached to/behind these. I think there are some rear or internal enclosure bolts that need to come off. I want to be sure that I am able to get full access to the area (and not have to re-assemble/regret having started the project).
These are not a problem. Just take your time. Especially when you re-assemble. I overlooked re-attaching a breather hose and had to remove the airbox a second time.
(b) Any special tools other than a 24mm deep socket?
I took a metal finger nail file and bent a tiny "L" shaped "hook" which worked really well for lifting up the thermostat for replacing the rubber o-ring.
(c) Any parts that I should order before any removals?
You will need a pressure switch and thermostat o-ring.
(d) Any other words of advice or warnings? Will the culprits be fused to the case?
The switch is a snap. The thermostat "plate" takes a bit of coaxing to lift out.
(e) Best way to remove oil accumulations from the exhaust piping without using any combustibles?
Gunk cleaner, hot soapy water, pressure wash & rinse at the car wash.
I'm sure others with more experience will have some additional thoughts.
It's a simple job and you will enjoy doing it. Good luck!
Joseph
88 carrera
I checked the archives on the subject and my issue sounds very similar to that of Joseph Mills (8/24/06). Oil is leaking on the exhaust collector. I have stopped driving it until the fix.
I am tempted to fix it myself, but I would like a bit of advice first:
(a) Is it difficult to remove the air filter enclosure and attached fuel box? I see a few hoses and mounting brackets that are attached to/behind these. I think there are some rear or internal enclosure bolts that need to come off. I want to be sure that I am able to get full access to the area (and not have to re-assemble/regret having started the project).
These are not a problem. Just take your time. Especially when you re-assemble. I overlooked re-attaching a breather hose and had to remove the airbox a second time.
(b) Any special tools other than a 24mm deep socket?
I took a metal finger nail file and bent a tiny "L" shaped "hook" which worked really well for lifting up the thermostat for replacing the rubber o-ring.
(c) Any parts that I should order before any removals?
You will need a pressure switch and thermostat o-ring.
(d) Any other words of advice or warnings? Will the culprits be fused to the case?
The switch is a snap. The thermostat "plate" takes a bit of coaxing to lift out.
(e) Best way to remove oil accumulations from the exhaust piping without using any combustibles?
Gunk cleaner, hot soapy water, pressure wash & rinse at the car wash.
I'm sure others with more experience will have some additional thoughts.
It's a simple job and you will enjoy doing it. Good luck!
Joseph
88 carrera
12-15-2006, 12:25 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Some follow-up questions....
What is the 24mm socket needed for? It sounds like you used your nail file instead?
If you remove the thermostat, do you have to drain the oil (assuming the engine is cold).
Are there bolts inside the airbox that need to be removed?
Thanks Joe.
If you remove the thermostat, do you have to drain the oil (assuming the engine is cold).
Are there bolts inside the airbox that need to be removed?
Thanks Joe.
12-16-2006, 03:14 PM
#6
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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oil leak
[QUOTE=tone40]What is the 24mm socket needed for?
Sorry... I've been away for awhile.
The 24mm deep socket is for removing your oil pressure switch.
It sounds like you used your nail file instead?
With a small mirror, you will see an oval shaped plate (#35), next to the oil pressure switch (45). Remove the two bolts holding the plate. Study the diagram that Jerry posted for you. You will see that beneath the plate is attached the thermostat with the o-ring. It is a snug fit. The nail file is used to grab underneath the plate to help start the removal of the plate and thermostat (all one piece).
Take notice of the orientation of the thermo when you remove it and make sure to place it back the same way. Coat the o-ring with oil. I used a rubber mallet to gently tap the thermo back into the case.
If you remove the thermostat, do you have to drain the oil (assuming the engine is cold).
You don't need to drain the oil at all. But you do want to clean the area around the switch and thermostat. You don't want anything falling into those holes when they are open.
Are there bolts inside the airbox that need to be removed?
There are several bolts to remove (see Jerry's diagram). And as I recall, all I removed to gain access to the switch & thermo was the air box (and nothing else).
If I missed anything, hopefully someone with more experience than I will chime in.
Let us know how it goes!
Joseph
Sorry... I've been away for awhile.
The 24mm deep socket is for removing your oil pressure switch.
It sounds like you used your nail file instead?
With a small mirror, you will see an oval shaped plate (#35), next to the oil pressure switch (45). Remove the two bolts holding the plate. Study the diagram that Jerry posted for you. You will see that beneath the plate is attached the thermostat with the o-ring. It is a snug fit. The nail file is used to grab underneath the plate to help start the removal of the plate and thermostat (all one piece).
Take notice of the orientation of the thermo when you remove it and make sure to place it back the same way. Coat the o-ring with oil. I used a rubber mallet to gently tap the thermo back into the case.
If you remove the thermostat, do you have to drain the oil (assuming the engine is cold).
You don't need to drain the oil at all. But you do want to clean the area around the switch and thermostat. You don't want anything falling into those holes when they are open.
Are there bolts inside the airbox that need to be removed?
There are several bolts to remove (see Jerry's diagram). And as I recall, all I removed to gain access to the switch & thermo was the air box (and nothing else).
If I missed anything, hopefully someone with more experience than I will chime in.
Let us know how it goes!
Joseph
01-03-2007, 03:49 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I tackled this job yesterday. I encountered no real problems. The oil pressure switch was pretty tight, but I got it off with a little coaxing. I torqued all components to spec. I did not remove the thermostat and o-ring because the pressure switch appeared to be the oil leak culprit. I cleaned the engine top and underside as best as I could, so I will re-check in a few days that nothing else is leaking.
A few things of note: (a) I found it much easier to remove the mass air flow box and air filter housing as a unit rather than individually. It makes the re-assembly of the filter box interior bolts a bit easier. Tyhe MAF box easily comes loose from the air box 90 degree bend hose. (b) I cleaned out the MAF bore thoroughly. It had a bit of gunk inside. (c) I found a disconnected vacuum line behind the area of the air filter housing, next to the cooling duct/shroud and adjacent to the EFI fuel rail (Did it come off during my work or was it already off?). The ~1/8" diameter hose connects to the air valve (In PET illustration 107-00 pages 1 and 2, #30 & #31). Is this the same unit as described in the Bentley manual as the "pressure damper", part of the fuel management system (connects to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail). The small connecting hose came from near the center of the engine top (near the throttle housing?). Anyways, the small hose friction fits into another hose that connects to the top of the air valve. The friction fit was not very tight, so I added duct tape in several places. Unfortunately, the hose clamps at my disposal were too big.
Well anyway, the car runs incredibly better than pre-repair. So far, no visible leaks or smoking. I am knocking on wood as I speak.
Does someone know the function of the air valve? I am also curious if anyone else had the same disconnected hose in their experience.
A few things of note: (a) I found it much easier to remove the mass air flow box and air filter housing as a unit rather than individually. It makes the re-assembly of the filter box interior bolts a bit easier. Tyhe MAF box easily comes loose from the air box 90 degree bend hose. (b) I cleaned out the MAF bore thoroughly. It had a bit of gunk inside. (c) I found a disconnected vacuum line behind the area of the air filter housing, next to the cooling duct/shroud and adjacent to the EFI fuel rail (Did it come off during my work or was it already off?). The ~1/8" diameter hose connects to the air valve (In PET illustration 107-00 pages 1 and 2, #30 & #31). Is this the same unit as described in the Bentley manual as the "pressure damper", part of the fuel management system (connects to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail). The small connecting hose came from near the center of the engine top (near the throttle housing?). Anyways, the small hose friction fits into another hose that connects to the top of the air valve. The friction fit was not very tight, so I added duct tape in several places. Unfortunately, the hose clamps at my disposal were too big.
Well anyway, the car runs incredibly better than pre-repair. So far, no visible leaks or smoking. I am knocking on wood as I speak.
Does someone know the function of the air valve? I am also curious if anyone else had the same disconnected hose in their experience.
