theiceman

Hey Arildso you DO still exist .... way to go .... :-)

Peter Zimmermann

Arildso: No, you can't substitute the Turbo spring, it's much larger and will not work. This is probably the point when you will need to buy a manual, or consult with a competent shop. Your stickiness could be the cable, but it's probably the shaft that holds the throwout bearing fork. The external spring can be changed without engine/trans removal, but the fork shaft, fork, and clutch all require engine removal. I've also seen problems with the throwout bearing sticking on its guide tube due to badly deteriorated grease/age. Unfortunately, your popping out of first gear symptom is usually an internal synchro problem. That said, it can also be a linkage adjustment issue, but that's highly unlikely.

arildso

iceman; Yes, I`m still alive

Peter
I will have to check some more on my return spring issue. What I find hard to understand is that when my pedal cluster bushings was worn out and the clutch sliped, my 1. gear did not pop out like it does now. So now when the clutch system is properly adjusted this is suddenly a problem.. Before I disassembled the pedal cluster I tried du adjust the release arm, gave it some more slack. It was at this point the 1. gear started to pop out...
Today, when I put in the first gear and starts to drive, I can feel a lot of "wobbling" (vibrations) with my hand before it pops out.
Need to investigate some more I think...

arildso

Hi again, i must have one desperate try to fix my first gear of poppin out.. had a conversation with an 915 "specialist" who said it wasn`t necessarily an internal synchro problem but could be a sticky throw out lever.
(I borrowed the pics form a tech thread on Pelican parts)

First of all, I got a tip on lubricating the shaft where my Throw-Out lever is mounted because it seems like there is some slowness in this. What lubrication grease should i use here, this is a very hot spot concidering the exhaust beeing so close so "normal" grease wouldn`t work i guess?
Here is a pic of the axel (on the rigth) I think should be greased up before mounting the Trow-out lever again.



Is it correct that this axle on pic below is not demountable without taking the gearbox out or is it possible to do it with the engine and gearvox mounted in the car? (Peter, I guess that is what you said but I need to be 110% sure...)


any other tips and tricks anyone will share with me before I start dismantle this throw out lever system? Hopefully I will do this this weekend, because if this doesen`t solve my first gear problem I need to rebuild my gearbox
(I do PROMISE to update this thread when I am done )

Peter Zimmermann

Correct, the shaft in pic #3 cannot be removed without first removing the engine, or removing the engine and trans and then separating the two on the floor.

arildso

Well, yesterday I tried to grease up the Throw-Out lever but it was not stuck after all... So I do have 1 mm gap now on the lever arm and adjustment bolt all the time when clutch pedal is "out"/not pressed in.
So I have decided to overhaul my gearbox... I will have an expert to do this so i guess some of my other planned upgrading projects will have to be postponed
Is there any recommendations for any upgrading I should do on my gearbox? I have turbo converted my 3,0 l engine, but only with 0,35 bar pressure so far so approx 220 Hp at the moment. Will have 250-300 Hp later, would a standard 915 gearbox handle these horsepowers?

Peter Zimmermann

Before you pull the thing apart be sure that the bottom few inches, before the bend, of your shift lever is vertical. If not, adjust, at the coupler/tunnel rod connection, to make it so. I've fixed your problem on a number of cars with only a simple adjustment.

arildso

OK, I will check this before I give up
But if the bottom part is not vertical, why is only the first gear a problem and not third and fifth?
Will check and report back

Peter Zimmermann

Possibly slightly more wear on the 1st gear synchro...

arildso

OK, now I have some pictures wich shows my shift lever

First the shift lever alignement in First gear:


Shift lever in neutral


Shift lever in second gear


Peter, you said that the bottom part should be vertical, did you mean in neutral position ?
Do the lever alignment look OK or should I try to adjust some?

To adjust the shift lever, I found this coupling )


Should I loosen the bolt on the left and pull the shaft to the right or the shaft more to left?
Is this adjustment very "sensitive" and hard to get right with a lot of "try and fail"?

(still hoping and crossing fingers...)

Peter Zimmermann

I'm sorry, yes, in neutral. It looks pretty close, if you put a little pressure against the lever it should move an equal distance from vertical toward the front and then back (there is always a little play in the lever). Your photo shows the lever leaning slightly forward of vertical, if it's far enough the lever might hit its stop before first gear is completely engaged. This would allow the gear to pop out when the clutch is released. To adjust (1) put the shifter in second (this will help control side to side movement, which you don't want), (2) loosen the clamp bolt, (3) reach forward, while watching the tunnel rod/coupler, and lightly tap the lever toward the rear of the car. When you see that the coupler adjustment has changed about 1mm to 1.5mm (this is easy to see because the coupler shaft will have a clean area) tighten the clamp bolt, select neutral, and see how much closer to vertical (use the 5th/R lockout as a reference) you are. Repeat until it looks good, tighten and test drive. Good luck!