heating problem & something electrical
11-17-2006, 06:04 PM
#16
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Awesome! I will be checking it out. It appears to me from my reading and expert analysis (yeah right) that I have some sort of power issue to the blower. Actually both blowers. I hear nothing from either one, the fresh air or the heater. My fresh air blower worked until about a week ago. I don't think that I have ever heard the heater blower work. I am looking forward to getting this fixed so I don't have to keep wiping my windshield with a towel!
11-17-2006, 06:09 PM
#17
Team Owner
I am sure you will fix it with the post you made above, good T/S steps. too bad I am in meetings all weekend or I would drive downa and give you a hand. I think my 78 has 2 microswitches , one behind each lever on the floor. I can't see both being out as they would have to be connected in Parallel to function , my money is on the relay or fuse if you don't have power to the connector.
Good luck.
Good luck.
11-17-2006, 11:57 PM
#18
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so I did all that Jeremy said, and the blower on the top of the motor works. I seem to have disconnected the plastic hose from the thing. It blows better now and it is still weak. Think that is the way it is going to be.
Also, I found out with my system the other night because the controls reminded me of my old BMW. The center lever was the switch to let fresh air in at a ratio rate that the car is traveling. I accidently put the bottom red lever all the way to the right, and then I also put the center lever to the right. As I traveled down the road the heat wasn't as hot, but it came out stronger as I went faster! So that may help when traveling down the road.
So all in all, I found everything works correctly, but I had it wrongly tuned and out of whack. As for the electrical part, everything is fine, I just think since the idle drops pretty low and bounces is the problem I have. Not sure how to fix it, but it goes away after a bit. I think the dimming is caused by the fact when the lights are on and the engine is killed the lights turn to parking. I think that is my problem.
Also, I found out with my system the other night because the controls reminded me of my old BMW. The center lever was the switch to let fresh air in at a ratio rate that the car is traveling. I accidently put the bottom red lever all the way to the right, and then I also put the center lever to the right. As I traveled down the road the heat wasn't as hot, but it came out stronger as I went faster! So that may help when traveling down the road.
So all in all, I found everything works correctly, but I had it wrongly tuned and out of whack. As for the electrical part, everything is fine, I just think since the idle drops pretty low and bounces is the problem I have. Not sure how to fix it, but it goes away after a bit. I think the dimming is caused by the fact when the lights are on and the engine is killed the lights turn to parking. I think that is my problem.
11-18-2006, 01:12 AM
#19
Ooh Jeremy gettin down wit da car...
If you PM me your address I could come over. I am working this weekend in Federal Way and Auburn (on call). I would like to see what you are doing.
How about we redo your brakes after Thanksgiving. I did my fronts, and I think I got the rears down now. It would take some down time though. Just long enough to get your front and rear calipers rebuilt. Ognian can do them cheap. New rubber brake lines, new rotors, new brake fluid, and then you are set (and safe!)
If you PM me your address I could come over. I am working this weekend in Federal Way and Auburn (on call). I would like to see what you are doing.
How about we redo your brakes after Thanksgiving. I did my fronts, and I think I got the rears down now. It would take some down time though. Just long enough to get your front and rear calipers rebuilt. Ognian can do them cheap. New rubber brake lines, new rotors, new brake fluid, and then you are set (and safe!)
11-18-2006, 06:21 PM
#20
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Sounds like fun! I sent you a PM, so hopefully we will be able to get together this weekend at some point. I am starting to think that the blower motor (the motor in the back) is dead. I unplugged the wires from the motor and hooked up a 12 volt battery charger to it to see if that would make it run. It did not. Nothing happened. My question is this.
A. Should this work?
B. If not, how do I push 12 volts to the blower motor to test it?
I am moving on to the fresh air blower now which is also not working. Very frustrating, but hopefully I will be able to figure it all out. I checked the plug that goes into the front of the fresh air blower with a continuity tester and it lit up indicating it was "hot". When I turn the key on and slide the lever all the way to the right however, nothing happens. Ugh...I will keep working on it.
A. Should this work?
B. If not, how do I push 12 volts to the blower motor to test it?
I am moving on to the fresh air blower now which is also not working. Very frustrating, but hopefully I will be able to figure it all out. I checked the plug that goes into the front of the fresh air blower with a continuity tester and it lit up indicating it was "hot". When I turn the key on and slide the lever all the way to the right however, nothing happens. Ugh...I will keep working on it.
11-18-2006, 06:59 PM
#21
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I borrowed this from the pelican forum:
Credit goes to Randy Webb
Senior Member
Registered: Nov 2004
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Oregun
Posts: 7975
Ventilation System Operation
There have been several questions about this recently, so I thought I would post the Official Factory Explanation:
Subject: RE: Heat Control FAQ for Pooschey
Q: I just bought a Pooschey 911 and can't figure out how to make the heater work -- or the fresh air either. Can you help me?
A: Sure, I can help you. The ventilation system requires that you operate 4 levers to make it work. 3 of the levers are on the dash, and the other is between the seats on newer Pooscheys there are 2 levers between the seats).
The top lever on the dash actually does several different things (remember, it is a fiendish German device, just like the rest of the car). Pushing it to the middle opens the dust ports leading to the windshield (see below for operation of fogging machine and oil mist spray device). Pushing it to the
right past the middle also activates the rattling noise-maker device. There are three loudness levels to choose from. Pushing the lever all the way to the left is used to jam the cable so unauthorized personnel cannot operate
any of the devices above. The lever also enables the automatic heat exchanger signalling device -- when opening it spews rust particles on the windshield, you should replace the heat exchangers. Also, if opening it causes you to immediately turn blue or purple (not just hair, but skin
color) and become unconscious, you (or your estate) should definitely replace the heat exchangers.
The second lever from the top controls the lights on the White House Xmas tree. Move it to the middle to turn on the lights, and all the way to the right to fire 4500 Megatons of Nukes at Iraq.
The bottom lever on the dash is used to replace the windshield when it becomes scratched or pitted with rock chips. It also determines how much hot air goes to your feet as opposed to your head. For example, let's say the engine is completely warmed up and the hot air is burning your feet. If it's a cold day, you can flip the lever to the other side and shoot hot air onto the windshield so it cracks and shatters. Then call your insurance company (you do have insurance, don't you?)
The lever between the seats controls the oil mist spray device. When the engine is warmed up, this lever allows you to blow oil mist into the passenger cabin. Using the top dash lever lets you select whether you want the oil mist to coat the inside of the windshield or to just circulate around your feet. On a newer Pooschey, you have 2 levers on the floor
between the seats. The left hand lever lets you open the left side vents which are aimed so they burn the feet of the person in the right hand seat, and the right hand lever lets you open the right side vents which are aimed so they burn the feet of the person in the left hand seat. Of course, each
lever will also burn just the tops of the feet of the person in the other seat. If you are driving in the rain (or even stopped in the rain after the car has broken down), these levers also let you spray a fog of water vapor on the windshield, so no one can see in or out of the car -- sort of like privacy glass.
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Credit goes to Randy Webb
Senior Member
Registered: Nov 2004
Location: Greater Metropolitan Nimrod, Oregun
Posts: 7975
Ventilation System Operation
There have been several questions about this recently, so I thought I would post the Official Factory Explanation:
Subject: RE: Heat Control FAQ for Pooschey
Q: I just bought a Pooschey 911 and can't figure out how to make the heater work -- or the fresh air either. Can you help me?
A: Sure, I can help you. The ventilation system requires that you operate 4 levers to make it work. 3 of the levers are on the dash, and the other is between the seats on newer Pooscheys there are 2 levers between the seats).
The top lever on the dash actually does several different things (remember, it is a fiendish German device, just like the rest of the car). Pushing it to the middle opens the dust ports leading to the windshield (see below for operation of fogging machine and oil mist spray device). Pushing it to the
right past the middle also activates the rattling noise-maker device. There are three loudness levels to choose from. Pushing the lever all the way to the left is used to jam the cable so unauthorized personnel cannot operate
any of the devices above. The lever also enables the automatic heat exchanger signalling device -- when opening it spews rust particles on the windshield, you should replace the heat exchangers. Also, if opening it causes you to immediately turn blue or purple (not just hair, but skin
color) and become unconscious, you (or your estate) should definitely replace the heat exchangers.
The second lever from the top controls the lights on the White House Xmas tree. Move it to the middle to turn on the lights, and all the way to the right to fire 4500 Megatons of Nukes at Iraq.
The bottom lever on the dash is used to replace the windshield when it becomes scratched or pitted with rock chips. It also determines how much hot air goes to your feet as opposed to your head. For example, let's say the engine is completely warmed up and the hot air is burning your feet. If it's a cold day, you can flip the lever to the other side and shoot hot air onto the windshield so it cracks and shatters. Then call your insurance company (you do have insurance, don't you?)
The lever between the seats controls the oil mist spray device. When the engine is warmed up, this lever allows you to blow oil mist into the passenger cabin. Using the top dash lever lets you select whether you want the oil mist to coat the inside of the windshield or to just circulate around your feet. On a newer Pooschey, you have 2 levers on the floor
between the seats. The left hand lever lets you open the left side vents which are aimed so they burn the feet of the person in the right hand seat, and the right hand lever lets you open the right side vents which are aimed so they burn the feet of the person in the left hand seat. Of course, each
lever will also burn just the tops of the feet of the person in the other seat. If you are driving in the rain (or even stopped in the rain after the car has broken down), these levers also let you spray a fog of water vapor on the windshield, so no one can see in or out of the car -- sort of like privacy glass.
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11-19-2006, 06:18 PM
#22
Team Owner
rentadate : .. the blower is better for heat as you go faster because it is the main engine blower that is providing the bulk of the air ( the alternator fan ) and of course you are generating more heat than at idle. The engine bay blower is merely to provide air movement at idle and low rpm as the main fan just is not spooled up enough.
Jeremy : it would be a lot easier to just my youself a cheap voltmeter at a hardware or car store. They are not expensive and is an invaluable T/S tool. just set it to VDC and stick the probes in the socket. You will instantly know if you have power. worst case borrow one .. at least ask for one for christmas....
Jeremy : it would be a lot easier to just my youself a cheap voltmeter at a hardware or car store. They are not expensive and is an invaluable T/S tool. just set it to VDC and stick the probes in the socket. You will instantly know if you have power. worst case borrow one .. at least ask for one for christmas....
01-17-2007, 12:51 PM
#23
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so here's the funny part. The blower in the rear fell apart while I was driving down the road in -12F weather the other day. It made the wierdest noise, and I thought I ran over a chunk of ice or something. Then I started hearing rattling noises in the engine area. Took the motor out yesterday, (cause it warmed up to 30), and found that the motor had literally exploded inside the metal housing.
Replacing it: $455.00 from the local guy. Blah.
Posted new post because I couldn't find this one. Looked around, looks like I can get a grainger replacement motor with some fun fabrication out of sheetmetal/old skillet. Can work well I guess.
One problem. People keep saying I can delete this thing and use the footwell blowers.
1.) No idea what it looks like to say wether I do or not.
2.) Fogging issues in the weather like wet snow/rain.
I need something to at least get the fog off my windshield. I've used this anti fog crap on the windshield, works alright. Not good for less than 30F days. Any ideas?
Can I bypass the fan, and add a new fan thing under the dash that will make it defog better?
Replacing it: $455.00 from the local guy. Blah.
Posted new post because I couldn't find this one. Looked around, looks like I can get a grainger replacement motor with some fun fabrication out of sheetmetal/old skillet. Can work well I guess.
One problem. People keep saying I can delete this thing and use the footwell blowers.
1.) No idea what it looks like to say wether I do or not.
2.) Fogging issues in the weather like wet snow/rain.
I need something to at least get the fog off my windshield. I've used this anti fog crap on the windshield, works alright. Not good for less than 30F days. Any ideas?
Can I bypass the fan, and add a new fan thing under the dash that will make it defog better?
