Hello all!

Lotta people looking, but no on giving advice except the Iceman? Don't be shy, I really need the help. Newbie mechanic with two new problems. In the 3 pics is an oil line at the front right of the engine. In close up you can see a big 36mm nut and a smaller one that I can't get a wrench on because of the oil return tubes. Can anyone tell me how to get this off? As you are looking at the close up, do I turn the big nut left (lefty loosey?). I know it is probably obvious, but it didn't feel right turning left, and the other smaller nut turns with it. Do I need to remove the oil return line and counterhold the smaller nut? I'll also cross post the question on Pelican because my mechanic is on there alot.

Here is my second problem. The photo shows my broken exhaust stud. Quite a bit of it remains. I read something about a 2 nut technique, but I couldn't get that to work. Any ideas? Should I buy the SnapOn tool Ice mentioned earlier?

I learned alot today about how to take the barrel nuts off easily. Unfortunately, one nut too late. The photo shows the ENTIRE barrel nut hot. Yesterday I didn't stay on it long enough and only the upper half was red. With my friend Tony heating (and his daughter shooting the pics) he heated until red hot with my 8mm allen head slightly above. Then he takes off the flame and I immediately start torquing. It is amazing how all five bolts came off with so little effort. My problem was I didn't know how much was too much, but after this I took my torque wrench and figured it was about 30 N.m of pressure needed. Oh, and I used a lot of Zep last night on them. As you are heating, you usually hear a "crack" which I am guessing is the rust giving way?

Photos: The offset wrenches did the trick. No problem with respect to access to the bolts with this tool. Then we got the HE off. Next was the oil cooler. Surprise, another half quart came barreing out of the oil cooler and the three hole in the engine it mates with. And this oil was especially dirty. Not just dirty, but globular in areas like it was stuck up in there (and I changed my oil 2000 miles ago.) Last one, here is the engine upside down with my heat exchangers off.

Please let me know if you have and advice to offer (questions above.) Oh, first I pressure washed the engine before removing the HE's. It didn't really do much with the oil despite degreasing last night. AND, water got down into the exhaust manifold of the cylinder with the snapped barrel stud. Fortunately the valve was in a closed position and I vacuumed it out.

Later,

 

AFter you get the tranny casings off, you need to unbold the plates that hold the shafts to the diff housing. Those are the plates and the Wevo unit is one piece instead of two. It will make sense when you see it. Ask John W. how to tell if they are worn. My guess is some kind of play by pulling on the shafts, while still bolted to the diff housing, but I haven't found anything written.

For your head stud, the SnapOn removal tool mentioned in Wayne D's rebuild book should work.
David

 

yes a mech can get you the tools. my brother has the exactt tools you are looking for and they are awsesome , he showed them to me. I think you will have to heat cycle the stud again but if you put theis device on you should ba able to still screw it out so all is not lost. May be worth it tao have someone with more experience have a look at it for oyu even if you pay them .. could work out a LOT cheaper..

 

As usual great pics james... The two nut technique in theory should work, but only if they will "jamb together". In theis scenario you want to turn the insdie nut obviously but it does not alway work.

As far as your oil cool line goes I have never done it but lefty loosey makes sense to me. Personally I would remove all the oil return lines anyway as you have the collapseable type and put new viton o-rings in it. Worse case put a new return tube in . But maintanance of this particular area should obviously be done with the exchangers out. Once the oil return tube is off you can get at the oil cooler line. Your other choice is a "crows foot" , that might get in their ...

 

David,

Thanks, it sounds like the plates are bolted to the intermediate housinng? I will diassemble the tranny after all the engine things are taken care of. The tranny is light enough that I can bring all 3 pieces of the tranny to John W to look at for me. I'll call my friend Ognian and ask him to order the SnapOn tool for me today.

Ice,

Yes, I am planning on replacing all 4 oil return tubes. I have collapsible now, but they don't seem to want to collapse anymore, even after I removed the circlip with snap ring pliers. I have a crows foot set. Not sure if it came with one big enough, but that is a great idea. I would have to heat the aluminum casing and hope the loctite melts. Aluminum doesn't get red when hot. The only way a mechanic could do this if they came to my house. My 81sc is a little incapcitated at the moment. I could probably get Ognian to do it. I would be intimidated to ask John.

Gotta go to work. Two heart attacks last night, all doing well. But my patient at home needs a better doctor.

 

probably 2 guys who took the porsche to the shop to have done what you are doing .. and got the bill .. lets hope there " Troponin I " results were negative...

Ice

 

Actually, their troponins are up if they are having heart attacks. Well, they are alive and well, and so my adventure continues. Many thanks to Rex and Walt on Pelican for explaining to me what to do with the oil line dilemna. 5 Photos: First I removed the nearby oil return tube. Gotta do it sometime. I got to use my fred flintstone wrenches again. 32mm on the little guy and 36mm on the big guy. I braced the little one and turned the big one counterclockwise. Off cam the line. It will be replace with a new line that goes to the front of the engine, not the rear, because of my new SSI install. 2 Photos: Here is the oil line adapter after I removed it. You can see some green stuff. I picked at it with a screwdriver and it is hard as plastic. At first I was thinking this is a seal, but then I see some green stuff in the hole so it must be loctite or some other sealant. I'll check before reinstallation because I wouldn't want a leak here.

2 Photos: That was only 30 min, so I decided to take the valve covers. I had better light on the right side, so I started there. When I loosened the bolts, clear fluid dripped out. I was thinking, man that is some clean oil. But it was water. Don't pressure wash the engine. It doesn't do much except get water where it shouldn't be. (Much better luck with a toothbrush, scotchbrite and brake cleaner.) Last Two: When I got the upper cover off, which was lower now because the engine is upside down, what seemed like a ton of oil came out. I am a big believer in frequent oil changes now. It isn't really an oil change, but a dilution of dirty oil with clean stuff. So here is the engine with one side's covers off, and what my engine looks like now with all 4 oil return lines out. Lot of fun today! Just an hour. I'll let the oil drain out and do the other side tomorrow.

 

Actaully I was hoping it was negative and they just had indigestion... :-)

as usual pictures look good and you are progresing well. I imagine the pile of parts that used to be your engine is growing.
I see you are unning into the age old question .. where do I stop ?

I would really be interested to see your list of replaced parts when you are done. I imagine you are pretty well there. Just cleaning and resealing to do. Oh by the way i was talking to a guy on the weekend who broke a stud like you did. he said he heated and just used a small pipe wrench and it screwed right out ! food for thought I guess.

 

Can't stop.

Must not stop.

Won't stop...... until the engine is one single broken exhaust stud sitting in the middle of my garage floor.

You are right, I think I am getting close with the disassembly. Then it will be cleaning and valve adjustment, then reseal. I will repaint a few things, but mostly going for the clean look. I still need to tackle the CIS.

Today I will stop by Ognian and pick up my rebuilt rear calipers. He will loan me an 8mm SnapOn type removal tool. My plan is to heat the stud red hot, then remove. My friend John in the cath lab told me if I overheat the aluminun base, I could melt or warp it.

Now we don't want to do that!

 

Wow James I am amazed how clean your car is around the valve covers. Mine is a mess in this area. i think I may have something else leaking in the area. Looks like you have lots of stud to grab on to . Is the tool you are going to borow the stud extractor ? if so you should show a pic so people can see it . It is a really cool lookin device. If you get it cherry I am sure it will come out.

What do you have left to do ? I am sure it is a ton of clening and of course assembly is the reverse of removal..

BTW did youjust buy one big engine resealing kit with everything you need or did you get all the pieces seperately ?
enjoying the pics as always.

 

Failed to get the stud out. 3 Photos: Ognian lent me his removal tool. He guesed I would need an 8 mm tool. I think it is what Wayne's book is calling a collet removal tool. But is was not the threaded type. It seemed to fit initially. As you turn the tool counterclockwise on the shaft, it grips the stud. Then I applied force with a socket wrench handle. Then it gives way. The tool basically mashed down all of the threads, and so the stud is a little skinnier now. Ognian told me not to heat the stud red hot, so I didn't. It is possible I have the wrong size tool. I later read that the stud is an M8x50mm size. The SnapOn tool in Wayne's book is threaded, but the one I used wasn't. The current tool just spins on the stud instead of gripping it. Well, at least the stud isn't broken off.

Here is my next problem. Through the exhaust side valve heads (where the valve cover was attached) you can peer in and see the camshafts. My cam lobes looked worn to various degrees. The first 2 photos show cylinder 4's cam lobe. You can see pitting. Wayne's rebuild book says this can be repaired with welding and regrinding. Then cylinder 5 and 6 cam lobes looked very very dark in color. I don't know if this is because 5 and 6 cam lobes were already repaired and reground.

Then the last 3 photos show the cam lobes on the other side for cylinders 1,2 3. They are all shiny chrome colored like cyl 4, but they look stained and I hope this isn't what Wayne calls "bearing wear".

Removing camshafts wasn't part of my plan. I don't know if I should just leave these be or not. I am hoping Steve W or Peter Z will see this and comment. If not, I may open a separate thread hoping to catch their eyes.

 

ah! I see that Maserati v8 peaking out to say hello, who might be the owner of such an italian masterpiece?

 

It is my buddy's car. He used to take it to the track. It is his daily driver!

 

aw god my nieghbor owns one as well, super sweet, I love everything about the styling, just wish I wasnt 17 making only $12 an hour

 

Hi Guys.
Well at the advice of Pete and Steve as well as John Dougherty on Pelican, I am hell bent on removing these cams and rockers. Just for kicks I removed my sump plate. I wanted to replace these gaskets. Here is a photo what it looks like inside. Next photo, I removed my tensioner oil lines. Looks like my RoW 930/10 engine had the tensioner update. 2 Photos: Tensioner covers came off. They were stuck on good. I think the previous mechanic used loctite or something to keep them on. First one was difficult. There was a little ledge that I could use a screwdriver and soft mallet to loosen things up a bit. I used a screwdriver to separate the cover from the housing. I was very careful not to injure any of the mating surfaces so I don't get a leak later. When the cover came off, I was surprised at how large the nut is on the camshaft. In 3 dimensions it is actually a thick nut. Doesn't look so thick in the books. Second cover I used a little heat with the torch. Not much, but cover came off much easier. Photo: Tools arrived after a week. Finally!

Photo: Here is my first attempt. I failed and thought about it a few days. I had my sears jack handles as breaker bars. My mistake: I tried to stabilize the nut and turn the central cam counterclockwise. The cam is actually the screw. I read the books wrong, or they aren't described very well. 2 Photos: Second attempt tonight. I stabilized the cam with a small breaker bar. I used a piece of 4x4 on the garage floor to provide clockwise tension on the central cam. Then I was able to keep the 46mm crowsfoot firmly on the nut with my right hand, and used the entire length of my jack handle and pushed counterclockwise with my left hand. Too easy! I am now wondering how I will do the right side later. Photo: Victory, nut off. Photo: Here is my spark plug as a sprocket lockpin removal tool (saved 32 bucks).

Last photo: I forgot to mention I loosened all the valve adjustment screws as told to in the books. I think that's so you don't accidentally push a valve onto a piston head.

Now I am stuck. In Wayne's book it says to remove the sprocket, but not sure how to do that just yet. I think I will have to remove the tensioner. On call this weekend. Intervened on a 40 y.o. with a big MI. Doing well now. Life is too short. Do what you want to do!