Hi James

great pics as usual .... learning a lot just by watching your progress. I remember having similar problem as yours with the brake but I pulled out that rretaining clip on the brake line and managed to get in . Your clutch cable looked like it was good for abot 2 more presses ... how lucky was THAT !!!

Did you have much trouble getting the rotor off? I was thinking of pulling mine off this winter as the e brake shoes are giving me grief but I do not want to risk destroying perfectly good rotors.

PS the Avatar will be back ... I just thought I would mix it up a bid with a few " clasic shots" from my dumbass collection while the car is in storage ... The icon will be back when the car hits the road...hopefully this year with me in it at the time :-)

 

Ice,

Removing the rear rotors is unbelievably easy. Just 2 small bolts hold the rotor to the hub. The hard part is removing the brake caliper. I guess the wheel bolted to the hub is the main reasone the rotor stays on.

Well in case you are interested, here are more photos of my adventure today. I have got to caught up in reading the books that I wish I were going to try to completely dismantle my engine. Pistons, cylinders, split the case. But I am not. I guess my 3 big projects are to clean the engine, seal the leaks, put on the SSI's and repair the transmission. Not necessarily in that order.

Photo: Today I flipped the tranny up and removed the crossmember. I accidentally removed the entire stud on one of the bolts. Cool. 2 Photos: Here is the bottom of the tranny where it mates with the engine. Look at all that oil crap. You should be able to see if you have this, and if you do then you probably have the leak. Photo: I was cutting some wood with a table saw, turned my head and saw my tranny leaking fluid. I felt like my patient was bleeding out. I realized it was my Swepco coming out of the the breather hole. Cool.

2 Photos: I noticed that the tranny housing where it covers the clutch has two hole. This is surprising. Look at the 2 holes. One at the top and a small one near the bottom. It looks like your clutch plate, flywheel, pressure plate, fork are all exposed to the elements. Maybe this is to release heat?

2 Photos: Here is my dolly I bought today from the hardware store. I cut up some scrap wood to provide support. Then I found this strap that came with a big package delivery in the past. Perfect to keep the tranny steady.

 

Wow great shots....

" doc this patient is bleeding to death " ..then quick , get me my camera :-)

 

Eew, gross! j/k

What you're doing is what i just did, which seems to be required maint at 130k or so. I did tie rods, tensioner upgrade and elephant racing oil lines with mine (1 line was crimped). Came to about $4k in parts, so you should be under $3k total, if you don't do those. Don't worry about pulling the studs out of the tranny mount. Oh yea, replace your mounts too.

Get a new guide tube, that looks pretty worn. Don't cut the oring on it when you replace it (and the shaft seal), like I did, or you get to pull it again!

Take your time and enjoy. None of it is difficult. Just educate before doing.
David

 

Thanks David!

By the way, what is a guide tube?

 

T/O bearing guide tube, that is. Remove the 2 phillips screws and wiggle it out. The shaft seal is inside and a little oring is around the outside and leaks like crazy if cut! All of the seals will be in your tranny gasket kit.

Downside is that it's $140. I put it in when I had to fix the leak after installing the clutch and the movement was smoother with the new one. I even tried flipping it over to wear the other side, too save the money at first.

On a side note, I would also suggest the wevo bearing retainer plate. I've come to realize that my shifter movement and gear whine is probably worn plates. You know, cuz I've replaced everything else. Ugh, another pull... Gotta love the learning curve of DIY! Hope the ring and pinion are ok.

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/p...aringplate.pdf

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=136947

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=182719

David

 

David,

Are you sure your shifter movement faults aren't secondary to the shifter bushings?

 

Pretty sure. All bushings and mounts are new, so... I'm most interested in the noise that might be ring and pinion. I would want to save it before needing a mainshaft.

The conditions that Russ states in the first thread are exactly what I am experiencing. I'm going to have a prof. drive and listen to it before I pull it apart though. Not that big of a deal. 1-2 day job.

Hope this helps you get it all done in one shot, instead of five!
David

 

Hi David, do you have a photo of where the bearing retainer plate is? I'll be tearing into my transmission later and if I can, I will inspect this.

 

Well, I'm done. Here is the finished engine! Photo.

Ok, just kidding. I was at John Walker's yesterday for my blue car service. He let me roam around while I was waiting for my taxi. I saw this 3.2 engine he rebuilt. It is exactly what I had in mind for my SC. Minimal paint. Just clean, and new nuts and bolts. It gave me motivation to get moving this weekend.

Photo: Here are 3 important parts I picked up from McClendon Hardware locally. 1/2 x 3/4 inch bronze bearings. Photo: Here is a test fit on the engine's tranny bolts. 2 Photos: I bought some bolts, washers and lock washers from Home Depot. Just brought the ring adapter in with me to get the right size. Now the engine mount is in.

Photo: Here is the jack adapter for my motorcycle jack. My initial plan was to raise the engine high enough that I could slide the engine mount right into the engine stand by myself. I succeeded in getting the engine high enough, but my engine stand has a T-shaped base, and I couldn't roll the stand close enough. But I am glad I got the engine up very high, because it made it very easy to lift with 2 guys. Photo: Here are my scrap wood block stacked to elevate my engine, which was still sitting on the fiberboard base. Photo: Here I put a 4x4 on each side of the jack. In retrospect, it was not necessary to use these additional blocks because even though I was successful in getting the center of the engine mount 31 inches off the ground, I couldn't get the engine in myself.

Photo: Here is my friend Tony helping me lift the engine. It was so high off the ground, we only had to lift it slightly to get it off my jack. If I had to do it again, I would have parked the engine stand against a wall so the engine stand would not move as we were trying to insert the mount into the yoke of the stand. In fact, as we sidestepped over to the stand, instead of the mount fitting, we were tipping the stand back. So I used my right foot to hold the front of the stand down so the stand wouldn't tip.

I later realized that I was actually holding up half of a heavy Porsche engine standing on one leg! Note to self...., next time definitely lean the stand against the wall. Photo: If you look closely, we now had the engine stand straddling the jack. It was impossible to lift up the front end, so we used my car jack.

3 Photos: Here is the engine in the mount. Then we start to rotate the engine. Then the engine was flipped upside down. (yeah baby!) Look at the red balloon. This is sealing the top of the breather cover. Now it is full of oil. In fact, a ton of oil came out of the breather when the engine was upside down. I would guess 2 quarts. I am guessing it was hiding in the oil cooler? Interesting to know that even when you change your oil you still leave a bunch of the dirty stuff in there. You are just diluting it with 10 quarts of clean stuff.

 

4 Photos: Here I am using a MAAP torch to heat my heat exchanger nuts and barrel nuts. This is the tranny drain plug tool I bought. Just a 17 mm allen. Fits on a 1/2 inch ratchet. Here is what I am gonna use for my barrel nuts. They talk about buying a long 8 mm allen wrench, but I already had allen heads for my 3/8 inch ratchet. I am just using an extension and it fits into the hole of the heat exchanger perfectly. (Interestingly, the new SSI's don't have a hole for each barrel nut. Steve Weiner uses plain old copper nuts. I haven't figured out how to do that one yet.) Here is a new tool I bought from Sears today to remove the heat exchanger nuts. It is a set of deep offset boxend wrenches. Should work, but a few might be a tight fit.

Last Photos: Here is the Maap flame. And if you think this wouldn't get hot enough, here is a shot of the copper nut "red hot". From what I have read, this is the key. And you need to do four cycles or so of heating. Tomorrow I will pressure wash the underside of the engine, now that it is flipped upside down. I will do this before pulling the HE's so that I don't get water down the exhaust manifold. John told me you can pressure wash the top side too with the intake manifolds stuffed with paper towels. I am thinking of duct taping them off.

This is getting really fun...

 

James great pics as usual .

Am i missing something or is the entire engine held to the stand by those 2 studs coming through with the brass bushings over them and 2 nuts ? seams to me they wouls just snap off with the weight of the engine but are there more we just can't see ?

I tried to zoom in on your head stud nuts, they look rusted but in very good shape, Mine looks like one blob of rust, cannot tell the duff between stud and nt , was yours like that before your penetrating fluid ?

 

Hello Iceman,

No, my nuts and bolts looked like separate entities even before I hosed them down with Zep. Yes, the entire engine is supported by the two tranny bolts. Same thing if you buy the big Porsche mount. but the ring is grooved and fits into the groove of the engine mating site, and the engine is tipped upwards a little by the engine stand, so the ring provides alot of the support. The weak link is the bronze bearing setup. Actually, the washers. I could only torque them down to 20 N.m. You can start to feel the washer concave a little because the bearing and the washer is about 1/16th too big. It would have been better if I could have found something metric.

Bad news. Snapped a heat exchanger barrel nut stud yesterday. It is hard to know how much torque is too much. Now I know. The other regular copper nuts were frozen, but after 3 cycles of heating and cooling and using Zep penetrant, the nuts came off easily with little force. But the barrel nut needed more force, then snap. Two other barrel nuts turned and started to make a big squeaky sound with each partial turn, but it doesn't feel right and I think it might be the stud unscrewing out. So I stopped and gave it some more Zep overnight. The barrel nut is like a little bowl, and you can fill it with penetrating oil. I haven't checked yet, but if the bowl is empty, then the Zep would have gone down into the threads.

Looks like I am gonna have to drill out my broken head stud. There is a special tool I need to get which guides the drill tip straight down. I am gonna hose the engine down today before I try anymore stuff.

 

James don't worry if the stud comes out , that is not bad as you get to put new studs in. Also are you sure the stud snapped flush with the casing. snap on sells a stud removal tool that grips the stud tighter as you unscew it , maybe if there is enough left for the thing to grab you might be okay.

 

Actually the stud did not snap flush with the casing. It is flush with the HE flange. That might give me room to work with. Where can I get SnapOn tools? I only see their trucks. Maybe from a mechanic to place an order for me?