axhoaxho

Greetings,

There is this 1989 Carerra (140K miles) for sale locally. The dealer sells it for the owner. The asking price is $26,900.

During the PPI, it found that Cylinder 5 has worn-out value guide, and the engine burns about 1 quake of oil every 400-500 miles.

A top-end rebuilt is suggested, and I am told to mentally prepare for around $5K (lucky if less).

I showed the PPI report to the owner, and he is willing to lower the price to $23,500.

The car's exterior is 9.5/10. Interior is 9.5/10. Every control works, A/C cold. Two owners car, all service records from day one.

It is a beautiful car (minus the worn value guide). Should I walk or buy?

With best regards,

pl

i feel the price is a little high. but i am in east coast, don't know if there any price gap between here and there.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi:

Just my opinion of course but the pictures show an exceptional example of these really solid cars and if all it needs is a proper valve job, I'd do it.

This is predicated on a PPI that shows no issues with the transmission, shocks or things like that. Tires are always a wear item so thats not a consideration when assessing a used car of any kind. I always install a new clutch kit, oil presssure sender, and thermostat O-ring when the engine is out, too.

pl

Steve the tech , just for my information, how much does a valve guide job cost on those 911? assuming the rate is $90/hour

mborkow

i'm in the market at the moment as well, and i think the price is a little on the high side, but not unreasonable. if you could get another 10% out of the seller that would be great.

g-50cab

$21 or 22k car tops - even in the NE. Wait a few months when it starts getting cold and that will drop to 20-21k

GothingNC

Somone just sold a nice 993 in my area for just a few grand more with no issues.

I think it's way to high since it needs a top end rebuild and from what I here the costs add up for the "while your in there" items.

Nice looking car in the pictures though.

rscredon

Nice looking car, but I'd have to agree that the price is still on the high side with the valve guide issue. I would think $20k would be a fair counter offer.

RyanPerrella

I too think its high, great looking car dont get me wrong but if its due for a top end overhaul which mileage alone would suggest so then 23.5K I think is reaching, on the sellers part.

axhoaxho

Thanks everyone for the replies and inputs

It helps to bring me down to the reality. You guys are correct, after $23.5K purchase price, tax&licences, and $5K top-end-rebuilt; it will be over $30K (too expensive). What was I thinking?

In addition, I still need to get the car to the shop for the top-end-rebuilt, instead of start enjoying driving it. And who knows what else might need to repair/replace when the engine is out...

Big thanks! With best regards,
- Alex.

umfan866

Alex,

I am also in the Bay Area and looking for a nice 87-89. PM me we can keep
each other posted. I saw that car too, but that dealer is priced WAY too high
if it NEEDS a top-end. A good top end will cost you 6-9k around here. For that
price (with the top-end included ) you could buy a garage queen with super
low miles. Frankly I know of a nice 88 3.2 coupe locally that I can get for 16k and
it has 148k miles and no documented top-end as of yet... and I am hesitating
majorly on that car because it if it needs the top-end tommorow I am in it for
like 22-25k. The best thing is to find a 3.2 G-50 that JUST had a recent top-end
done, somewhere in the range of 15-20k purchase price. That is what I am on the
lookout for. Again PM me or email me at mhecht <at> sonic.net and we can help
each other out..I know good sites for finding cars...

axhoaxho

You are absolutely correct. In the Bay Area, it is not uncommon for a shop to quote 6-9K for a good top end rebuild.

I know my shop and its owner well. During the PPI, he mentioned that the reason why the 3.2L has common value guide worn out problem because -- Porsche updated the value seal (I might remember the term wrong?) from 3.0L to 3.2L.

He said, in the old 3.0L, the seal material was not so good, so the oil leaks to the value guide (about 1/4 quake per 1K mile). Interestingly, the leak actually allows oil to lubricate the value guide, and prolong the life of the value guide from wearing out.

In the 3.2L, the seal was good, no oil leaks to the value guide to lubricate it, thus the value guide wears out faster.

When he does a top-end-rebuild on the 3.2L, he would actually put the older value seal in the engine. He said it is a good trade-off, burning (and adding) 1/4 quake of oil per 1K mile to prolong the life of the value guide.

I learn something new everyday. And again, a good PPI is the best money spent when buying a used P-car

With best regards,
- Alex.

jwilberdog

for the mileage and the issues...I totally agree with everyone on the board. Prices are actually going up for g-50 cars and '89's are nice to have BUT, IMO go for one with less miles and problems for that money.

You CAN find coupes for low to mid 20's with less than 100k and records...you just have to keep looking. I am in So Cal by the way

Brett San Diego

Axhoaxho,

I tend to agree with Steve W. The pics show an apparently very clean interior (straight door panels and pockets). Can't see the seat wear, however. But, you yourself say it's a 9.5/10 interior and exterior. If I reviewed the full records that you say it has, and the indication is that the owner was very conscientious and always fixed problems and kept up maintenance, I would seriously consider spending now on this car rather than having a chance of spending later on a less well-kept car. If you get the top end done now, you ought to be able to rest easy for a very, very long time regarding engine issues. There's value in that. And, maybe you can realistically put off the work for a year or so if you need to financially. All it's doing is burning some oil. I might be wrong, but I don't think the engine will suffer from allowing it to burn a little extra oil for a bit longer as long as the consumption is not way excessive. (Someone could correct me on this.) You'll have to judge that.

I tend to value cosmetics a lot. I can fix a lot of mechanical things myself, but paint and body and interior repair is mostly beyond my DIY realm. I would buy a nicer looking car that needed mechanical work before a cosmetic dog that ran beautifully. And, this one looks nice.

Personally, I would try for a couple thousand more off (because you always should) but still seriously consider the car if the seller was firm. But I don't know your budget. Whatever you do, don't spend your entire budget just to get the car in your garage. Keep 10-15% of your budget in the bank for normal reconditioning and any unexpected repairs.

Overall if the cosmetic condition is really exceptional, I think the seller is justified in asking a premium over the average car with over 100,000 miles.

Good luck with your search,
Brett

pl

fyi
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WOW-O...QQcmdZViewItem