Just Dave

So now after just reading that one, I will be passing on MM and continuing the search for "the freshest, best-maintained 911 you can afford" in Jack's words. What is realistic mileage for a 911 motor before it begins having issues of a more serious nature (aside from inherent design issues like head studs and tensioners?) I give the average small black Chevy 350 around 120K miles, your average Honda 200K, same for most Toyotas with Mercedes diesels from the 80's putting on 300K without trouble with regular maintenance. I don't expect 300K, or even 200K from a 911. I don't plan on hammering the car, mostly just daily driving to and from work, so all things being equal with regard to maintenance, how long can I expect a motor to last? Jack mentions getting a car "ideally with less than 80,000 miles on the clock (but more than 40,000)". Is 100K a magic number?

Peter Zimmermann

My '82 SC is at 203K miles and running as strong as new. I've replaced the cams/rockers, at 192K miles, but the heads have not yet been off. Expected mileage has everything to do with the level of maintenance, and correct operation - in other words, every car is different. That's why service/repair records are crucial - at least you'll have half the mystery cleared up!
Pete

Just Dave

Ok, well that is what I thought based on my automotive background, but figured at this point in my Porsche education, there aren't too many stupid questions I can ask.

I found a car with excellent potential to be 'The One' just yesterday but alas, as I am at the beginning of my search and figured it would take a bit of time to bone up on knowledge and the finer points of all things Porsche. Thus I am ill prepared to buy one so soon but I take solace in the saying "There is always another deal."

Is Porsche fever always so bad once one gets it? Is there a cure?

jdogporsche

Just Dave,

Two things...

1. You have children right? Can't you trade or sell for the greater Porsche good? <wink, wink>

2. There is a cure for Porsche fever. It's called death...

Jay H

Good 911's are few and far between, so if you find one that really trips your trigger and is in the condition you expect and can tolerate, pull the trigger.

You'll find that once you have a 911, one isn't enough. Be prepared to someday own two. Then three. Then Four. Etc. I'm on my 3rd 911, with two still in the garage... It's a good addiction.

Jay
90 964
84 3.2

Porsche Newbie

Oh what the hay, I'll chime in even tho I am a Newbie..well, my wallet says I am no longer one but I digress.. I bought a "cheap" porsche..you know, one of those "good deals"? I paid $8900.00 for it. It's my avatar pic. Let's see, so far what I have fixed and or replaced..first thing I had done was the valve covers changed to 930 style and I dont even recall what that bill was off hand..had the engine out and re-sealed with all new gaskets ($240.00 for gaskets, $530.00 for labor-that doesnt include any labor for pulling engine), replaced window stops both sides (targa) at $44.00 each), new heat exchanger to body hose, new A/C-heater dash panel ($400.00), dash coverlay (100.00), steering column sleeve (15.00 plus labor- this after the steering locked up on me and I had to have the car towed), more engine heater hoses, floor mats (109.00), fuel accumulator ($120.00), fuel filter, brake pads front and rear, front brake hoses (both at 18.95 each) front rotors (35.00 ea), new tires all the way around $600.00), fixed back-up lights, fixed engine bay light, in process of repairing trunk light, missing cig. lighter (yes this is $44.00 for just the insert), new engine bay sound deading/insulation pad, fuel pump check valve, fuel pump relay, fuel injector (one was sticking open- $60.00), airbox straps dry rotted and replaced (26.00), new battery (60.00), valve cover gaskets in gaskets set not adequate so I had to buy the Weltmeister versions (60.00 set), one new cam tower oil line ($18.95), pilot bearing (18.00), replaced one CV joint boot kit(boot, gasket, spcl. pliers for boot-20.00), drain and fill tranny with Swepco-$50.00, replace rear spring plate rubber bushings (64.00), new targa top handle (mine came without-$41.00), smog/air pump removed.. I havent listed any tools I have purchased.. I am sure there are other things I have forgotten.. but that's what has been done so far..runs pretty good, shifts a bit like a school bus (long throws), paint is decent, targa top in decent condition, clutch was well within specs (thanks Pete), A/C is present but not connected and or working (yet!), wheels have some scuffs and prolly need to be re-painted, the pre muffler is shot and needs replacing ($400.00 plus).. fuel sender is prolly going bad as it will read empty at times (and it isnt!).. so.. that's my story..

My best advice to you is to get a catalog from www.automotion.com and you can see specific prices for parts you may eventually have to replace/upgrade. It can be an eye opener if nothing else and an education. I also use pelicanparts.com quite a bit for parts.. good luck but go into it with eyes wide open, oh and yer wallet too.. dont mean to sound like pessimist..I love driving that car esp. when it hits about 3000rpm..let us know what you do..

Just Dave

I agree, I SHOULD pull the trigger on this one car, however I love my wife and kids and the roof over my head and pulling $10K outta savings as opposed to accruing it elsewhere for this specific purpose would defeat the notion that I am married and live in a house. I would quickly be single and living in the Porsche. So I fear this one will go to another home while I wait and prepare for mine to come along.

- Just Dave

Just Dave

Porsche Newbie - Thank you for your run down. It sounds like a lot of minor things that needed to be addressed which I am hoping to avoid but one never knows until one makes the purchase. I am sure not everything you listed would have been caught in a PPI, but I hope to hedge my bets by getting a PPI and getting the best maintained car for the money at the time I buy. I will get the catalog you mention and start parts price checking on Pelicanparts.com to ready myself for any potential repairs.

- Just David

Mike Murphy

Dave, I bought my first 911 1 month ago. I used to work on old Chevys (1949 truck, 1968 Nova SS). I researched quite a bit before I bought my 1988 Targa. Glad I did, but then after buying it, I found that all the blowers in the car didn't work. You see, you can't be 100% covered when it's your first time. But you seem like the type who will be covered on the critical stuff, the important stuff.

Find the newest car in your price range, make sure it checks out (PPI + History + CarFax + your own checklist) and buy it. You will find - as I have - that working on these cars is easy and the knowledge sharing is phenomenal.

Just Dave

I am actually not looking for the newest car in my price range, but I am looking for the cleanest, most solid, well maintained (with records) car for my money. I have limited myself to 911 models between 1975 and 1983 as they have motors I can actually work on. I find later models to be more complex in ways I don't want to deal with. I hear what you are saying though, get the PPI, history and CarFax and get the major stuff looked at. I can deal with minor things, I just want to ensure the rust issue and drive train are well addressed. I can replace a **** or swap out a window regulator. I just don't want to crack a case or pull any heads. Congrats on your car by the way, I am happy for you.

- Dave

Paul K

Dave,
I feel your pain- I'm still waiting to buy my first 911. Tempting though it is to buy a 10k car, I'm going to hold off and buy a Carrera Targa when I can afford to put at least $17k into it. Anyhow, have you heard of/read Steve Wilkinson's 'The Gold-plated Porsche'? PM me and I'll mail you mine- good read.

Cheers,

Paul.

Just Dave

Another question for you all: Are 911T models worth examining? I don't know anything about the 2.2 motors. I will search for info here in the forums but if someone wants to chime in with a sentence or two I'd appreciate it. Thing to remember, I'm looking for a balanced car, not the fastest on the block so even though the motor is smaller and perhaps less powerful than a 3.0 in an 911SC, it still may peg the fun'o'meter for driving.

Just Dave

And another question: Is this a valid VIN - 9117211314. And if so, can someone CarFax it for me? I haven't signed up for CarFax yet and someone mentioned that someone here might be able to do it. I don't want to abuse the privilege though.

- Dave

Porsche Newbie

dave please do yourself a favor, order Pete's book. I have no vested interest in it, you will learn about each model and potential flaws of same. Worth it's weight in gold. Secondly, Carfax doesnt go back prior to 1983 I believe. I KNOW for a fact it doesnt for my '78.. solid repair records/history is better than a carfax anyway..

Jay H

Long hood cars are a hoot to drive. However, that market is exploding and decent cars can be well above $20k now with mint stuff in the $25k to $50k range. As a potential new owner, I'd still recommend sticking with a much newer SC or Carrera and maybe a 2.7 liter car (with a fresh motor). There is quite a lot of bang for the buck in the '74 to '89 cars yet if you find the right deal.