What camber does everyone run?
06-26-2006, 09:50 PM
#17
Meantime I echo Pete's statement how the he!! do you get that much front camber?
I have wallowed out the bolt holes. I have even cut off the inside of the stock plates.....talk to us!
I have wallowed out the bolt holes. I have even cut off the inside of the stock plates.....talk to us!
06-27-2006, 06:58 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann
hmd: How the heck did you get 3 degrees negative on the front of your car?
Pete
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12-21-2006, 10:43 AM
#21
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I have been struggling to get negative camber on the rear of my car while keeping the toe in line. It looks like I should be able to get more than the -.8 I have now. What should a stock car be able get for rear camber and toe? My car is a pure track car but has a stock set up.
12-21-2006, 12:24 PM
#22
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Keith,
You should be able to get at an easy -2+ degrees at the rear on a stock car. I have an 82 as a track car as well, and was able to get -2.5 without doing anything but turning the bolts. Getting more camber from a stock front end is more difficult. I had maxed out at -1.7, but with some judicious elongation of bolt holes in the strrut mount area, I was able to coax -2 from all stock pieces (OE except bilstein struts, that is). I suppose one day I will go to sphericals, but for now I am doing just fine and the car is very neutral set up as is. I can't remember what toe was, but the car is rock-solid stable at speed and doesn't eat tires at all. Hope this helps you.
Edward
You should be able to get at an easy -2+ degrees at the rear on a stock car. I have an 82 as a track car as well, and was able to get -2.5 without doing anything but turning the bolts. Getting more camber from a stock front end is more difficult. I had maxed out at -1.7, but with some judicious elongation of bolt holes in the strrut mount area, I was able to coax -2 from all stock pieces (OE except bilstein struts, that is). I suppose one day I will go to sphericals, but for now I am doing just fine and the car is very neutral set up as is. I can't remember what toe was, but the car is rock-solid stable at speed and doesn't eat tires at all. Hope this helps you.
Edward
12-21-2006, 12:43 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann
Ian: Good post with the chart! I even run my car slightly more "tame" than you, and find that it's extremely predictable and consistent. I like - .5 front, - 1.0 rear. What I find makes the biggest difference is the toe, which I run in a toe OUT setting of 1/32" each side. This gives a great combo of good tire wear, overall balance, and great turn in at higher speeds. I've found that excessive camber on a car with street/stock t-bars and sway bars becomes too twitchy (for my liking).
hmd: How the heck did you get 3 degrees negative on the front of your car?
Pete
hmd: How the heck did you get 3 degrees negative on the front of your car?
Pete
1.) Pirelli PZero Nero M+S ($404)
2.) Michelin Pilot Sport AS ($616)
12-21-2006, 01:16 PM
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Edward,
Thank you, I don't know if I have a bent car or trailing arm/s. I am having a new (used) trailing arm installed to see if that helps. The car was a handfull under braking and we found the toe way out of whack. Now we can't get the negative camber.??? Hopefully the trailing arm will do the trick.
Thank you, I don't know if I have a bent car or trailing arm/s. I am having a new (used) trailing arm installed to see if that helps. The car was a handfull under braking and we found the toe way out of whack. Now we can't get the negative camber.??? Hopefully the trailing arm will do the trick.
12-21-2006, 02:37 PM
#26
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Keith
I would be really interested in what you find. That rear trailing arm on an oversteer if it clipped a curb would definitely give you lots of positive camber , but that thing is pretty beefy. I had your issue exactly but I was able to dial it out and got about -1.5degrees.
I would be really interested in what you find. That rear trailing arm on an oversteer if it clipped a curb would definitely give you lots of positive camber , but that thing is pretty beefy. I had your issue exactly but I was able to dial it out and got about -1.5degrees.
01-17-2007, 02:51 PM
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UPDATE:
My car is back to normal. The right side or passenger side trailing arm was bent. I had both trailing arms replaced and I am able to easily get -2.5 degrees on the rear now.
There was nothing visually wrong with the trailing arms they were just tweeked at some point. No doubt a hard life. The car is a dedicated track machine.
My car is back to normal. The right side or passenger side trailing arm was bent. I had both trailing arms replaced and I am able to easily get -2.5 degrees on the rear now.
There was nothing visually wrong with the trailing arms they were just tweeked at some point. No doubt a hard life. The car is a dedicated track machine.
01-17-2007, 03:12 PM
#29
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Keith: Good news! The hardest part of replacement is not being able to see anything wrong with the old one. My shop replaced a few over the years, they were either broken in half (ouch!) or looked OK. I think a factory jig exists to check them, but I've never seen one. It seems like Aase Brothers had one...
Pete
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