Hello all -

I believe I have dropped a valve seat, so am removing the heads from my '72 2.4L T engine. First time I have attempted this particular operation. Need some help:

What is the preferred way to remove the large nut holding the sprocket? It looks like a 40mm socket would fit, but then I couldn't hold the camshaft. How is it supposed to be done?

Thanks!

 

is there a bunch of holes in the socket ? If so oyu will ned a special tool to hold it by this point .

 

Yes, I believe there are holes, but they are covered by the gigantic nut holding the sprocket to the camshaft.

 

Early cams have a shaft with two flat sides, over which a special tool fits. The nut is removed using a special crowfoot (an open socket with the 1/2" drive receiver positioned on the outside)...
Pete

 

Thanks, Peter, that's what I needed to know!

 

Hey Pete if I decided to do my oil seal would I have to take the cover off both sides and set both cams or could I do just the one side I am working on ?

Thanks

 

ice: You can certainly do the one side only. The left side is easier than the right side, especially if you decide to replace the chain ramps at the same time.
Pete

 

Pete

I have hydraulic chain tensioners already and I may try this , but I was concerned what happens to the chain when I take the sproket off ...ie if it falls off the crank or other cam due to the lack of tension I'm screwed... PS it is the left side when facing the back of the car.

 

That's always the left side! Seriously, you do one side at a time - start to finish, chain box cover back on. You take the left cam loose with the engine on TDC (Z1) for cyl #1. When you use the special tools the cam will move a little when you break the nut loose, but not much. Take a good look, before you loosen the nut, at the two flat sides of the end of the cam, and use that for reference as you work. Keep it close to where it was and it won't spin from valve spring pressure. Remove the nut, the sprocet and key, the shims (which set up sprocket depth so the chain runs true), the thick spacer that only goes one way (one side is beveled) and, finally, the aluminum plate that holds the o-ring. Put the chain anywhere you can so it's not in your way. If you really want to try this I'll help, but before you buy/borrow tools you should get one chain cover off to see which cams you have. Sorry, I can't remember when Porsche switched from the big retaining nut to a bolt - and the tools needed are different for each. You should also set up your dial indicator to see where your cam is timed before starting the job. That will tell you if a PO stuck weird re-grinds, etc., in there - which is good to know.
Pete

 

Thanks Pete I will do some investigation into what I need and if I can acess the tools. I may wait until I am off the road in the winter , then I can just take my time. !