LOS ANGELES BODY SHOP REC? Fender Roll
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LOS ANGELES BODY SHOP REC? Fender Roll
I am planning on putting 16x7s in the front of my 88. I understand that I need to have the fenders rolled to prevent any possible rubbing (when wheel is turned sharply and suspension is compressed). I have a very mint paint job so I want to make certain that whomever does the job does it carefully. Anyone know a good shop in LA?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
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seronde
I run 16x7 on my SC with non-rolled fenders, and have tracked it many times... Never has the tire rubbed. But I'm only running 215mm tires on the front. If you're running wider, then it may be an issue...
TonyG
I run 16x7 on my SC with non-rolled fenders, and have tracked it many times... Never has the tire rubbed. But I'm only running 215mm tires on the front. If you're running wider, then it may be an issue...
TonyG
#3
Each car is slightly different. Some may not have any clearance issues. Others may only rub on one side or the other.
Instead of rolling, I would suggest reducing the width of the lip as necessary with a high speed sanding disk. While rolling will achieve the desired end effect, it will also create a narrow, u-shape space that will tend to accumulate dirt and moisture. Moisture leads to corrosion (rust), even with galvanized metal. Rolling can also crack the paint if you're not careful. Many use a heat gun to soften the paint during this process. YMMV.
Identify the rub area(s), remove tire/wheel assy., then apply masking tape over the area. Mark the new edge line with a Sharpie pen, then go at it with the sanding wheel. Move around so any one area doesn't overheat and bubble the paint. Blend the cut areas into the existing metal. Lay wet towels on the fender to draw heat away from the grind area. Finish bare metal with a brush layer of primer and touchup paint. Wear eye and/or face protection. You or a shop can do it in an afternoon.
BTW, as Tony suggests, it may not rub, especially at stock ride height. Typical front tire size is 205/55-16. Not sure what size Tony uses on his car (215/?)
FWIW,
Sherwood
Instead of rolling, I would suggest reducing the width of the lip as necessary with a high speed sanding disk. While rolling will achieve the desired end effect, it will also create a narrow, u-shape space that will tend to accumulate dirt and moisture. Moisture leads to corrosion (rust), even with galvanized metal. Rolling can also crack the paint if you're not careful. Many use a heat gun to soften the paint during this process. YMMV.
Identify the rub area(s), remove tire/wheel assy., then apply masking tape over the area. Mark the new edge line with a Sharpie pen, then go at it with the sanding wheel. Move around so any one area doesn't overheat and bubble the paint. Blend the cut areas into the existing metal. Lay wet towels on the fender to draw heat away from the grind area. Finish bare metal with a brush layer of primer and touchup paint. Wear eye and/or face protection. You or a shop can do it in an afternoon.
BTW, as Tony suggests, it may not rub, especially at stock ride height. Typical front tire size is 205/55-16. Not sure what size Tony uses on his car (215/?)
FWIW,
Sherwood
#4
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Running 7x16 Fuchs on the front of an SC or later body will not cause you any rubbing if you run 205/55s. As this is the most typical fitment, I wouldn't worry about it at all. If you go to 225/50s, however, you do have a good chance of rubbing, typically the driver's side.
Edward
Edward
#5
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I ran 205s on my 7x16 factory Fuchs and ran into a contact issue on just the front left. I ultimately rolled the fenders a little. I used silver duct tape on the paint, then SLOWLY went at it with something like a wooden softball bat. Patience is the key. I HIGHLY recommend against sanding as you will be grinding off your protective galvanized surface in a very harsh area,--your FENDERS! (Even if you put paint back on them). You don't have to remove material, just move it a bit.
Dan
Dan
#6
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dont do it yourself, pay and have it done right with the fender rolling tool and a heat gun to keep the paint from cracking. go to EF1 Motorsports in Long Beach. He does a great job He is a friend of mine and I have sent many of my customers there. He charges $50 a a corner. Click on the link to see the setup.
EF1 Motorsports
EF1 Motorsports
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seronde,
I don't have my Porsche yet, but some shops recommended to me in town are Dutch Treat Porsche, Callas Rennsport, Precision Tech Motorsports (13368 W Washington Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90066), Otto's in Venice and James Import Motor Service.
I don't have my Porsche yet, but some shops recommended to me in town are Dutch Treat Porsche, Callas Rennsport, Precision Tech Motorsports (13368 W Washington Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90066), Otto's in Venice and James Import Motor Service.
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#8
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seronde
Rolling fenders is no big deal. We do it on super high dollar cars all the time.
Heat gun (on low heat) and a baseball bat with a protective cloth making lots of very small movements.
It's a trivial job. You can do it yourself easily if need be.
I'd wait until you have rubbing, then look to see where the rubbing is occuring. Then you will know where to emphasize your fender rolling efforts.
If you're unsure, you can come by our shop and I'll show you how to do it. We're in Studio City.
TonyG
Rolling fenders is no big deal. We do it on super high dollar cars all the time.
Heat gun (on low heat) and a baseball bat with a protective cloth making lots of very small movements.
It's a trivial job. You can do it yourself easily if need be.
I'd wait until you have rubbing, then look to see where the rubbing is occuring. Then you will know where to emphasize your fender rolling efforts.
If you're unsure, you can come by our shop and I'll show you how to do it. We're in Studio City.
TonyG