fonz

How much should I spend in a excellent 1973.5 911t targa?
Should I choose another model to collect rather than the 73.5 targa 911T?

zzopit

A near flawless "older" 911 (69-73), as in unrestored excellence or restored to perfection may run you $20K or more. Start deducting for heavy engine work ($2000 - 9000) and body/paint/interior ($2000 - 9000) and possible stearing/suspension work ($1000 - 3000) and you will find your price. Note that it is possible to end up with a car with negative value (money pit) as the value of the repairs can quickly exceed the "for sale" price.

By "Collect" do mean garage-queen or a car to actually use (weekends & holiday)? Any 66-68 (Short Wheelbase) or 69-73 with the chrome bumpers may qualify. The later 74-77 2.7 911S, 78-83 3.0 911SCs or even the AMAZING 84-86 3.2 Carreras are now near 20-30 years old, they certainly qualify as "collectors" by the insurance industry. Added bonus is that they will unlikely depreciate in value and the prices have gone up recently.

Best pricing source I found is ebay. Look at both current and "completed" items and find a comparable car, nationwide as a benchmark.

worked for me...

Good luck

Doug&Julie

I would tend to believe an excellent 73.5 911T could be found for comfortably under $15k...with "good" ones going for around $10k. eBay is not a bad place to check them out, but most of the early cars that show up there are dogs or at best in average condition. I did see a beautiful original 73.5 911T coupe go for about $12k on there recently. I'm sorry I couldn't bid on it myself.

Like zzopit, I would want to ask what you mean by "collector" car. I'm going to guess a nice car for weekend driving? I like the "collectability" of the early cars, and to see them on the road is pretty unique. (especially here in good 'ol Cinci OH) They have a certain charm to them that's hard to be found in later models. Getting one with the CIS will make your driving life a little easier, I think, than an older MFI sample. So a '73.5 Targe would be a nice buy.

It goes without saying (so I'll say it) to be sure to get a good PPI done and with the early cars, look EVERYWHERE for rust. Spend the money on a good example and you'll be much happier than "saving" money on a duff.

Good luck!

pwd72s

I suggest you think about holding out for a car with MFI instead of a CIS car...'72 or early '73. I'm thinking they'll be more valuable as collector cars. A properly working MFI is bulletproof. Finding a wrench who understands the system is the trick. MFI gives better throttle response than carbs or CIS. Why am I such a booster of MFI? I've been loving it on my car for several decades...

adamj7

I also used ebay and traderonline.com to ballpark prices before I purchased my 75 911S.Usually good to fair car conditions. Both locations gave a comparable range. If you look on the REGIONAL classifieds of PCA.org (couldn't get into "the mart" as I was not a member at the time)you will see cars in better condition and prices that reflect the love PCA members have for them. A little research in these locations will give you a good feel for the market. Good Luck!
Adam

Jim Richards

Like pwd72s, I'm partial to MFI. An "excellent" T will probably set you back $15k, plus or minus. When I say excellent, I mean they look great cosmetically and need no significant work. There's a category beyond excellent where serious collectors play.

An early E or an S will provide you with an even more spirited car to drive. Excellent E's may go for the high teens to low $20k's, while excellent S's are in the upper $20k's (and beyond, right pwds72?).

Hope this helps...

Doug&Julie

pw72S....I envy you. I would agree that the MFI offers exceptional throttle response, and is a joy to drive once you get moving. I guess lately I've had very little chance to get my T out for a long, country kind of drive. The last time I drove it, I had to drive it to work and back. ...very slowly...stopping A LOT for lights and traffic...in 36 degree weather in the morning and 56 degree weather in the evening....ugh. It's enough to make me lose patience in the poor car. But that's why I recommend something with electronic fuel injection.

Ah...I'm just getting old an lazy I guess.

pwd72s

Doug & Julie? CIS is kind of misunderstood. It's not electronic, but is really a constant flow mechanical system. I don't think it's any more reliable or any less reliable than MFI. If your '72T has trouble in stop & go traffic with MFI? Maybe it needs to be taken through the "stop measure adjust" tuning steps. I've idled through rush hour Portland traffic in my "peaky" '72 911S with no problems...I hated the experience, every minute of it worrying when some idiot was going to bump me...but the car itself did fine, idled great, even when creeping ahead a few feet at a time for over 3 hours when only one lane of I-5 was open because of a wreck ahead. I'll never say an early car is as comfortable or sophisticated as a Boxster...but that's WHY I'm not driving a Boxster. The early car offers a feel, a "direct connection" that the later cars simply do not deliver because everything is filtered through power steering, hydraulic clutches, drive by wire throttles, etc. All of these changes are amazing in their own right, but they do "filter" the driving feel.