Porsche in a box - help in evaluating a restoration? ( long)
05-01-2006, 03:49 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Porsche in a box - help in evaluating a restoration? ( long)
I'm looking to add a 911 to the family as a project car - and am prepared to take on a reasonable challenge: Keeping 'reasonable' in mind, I have three cars in mind .... and here's the quick story on one. Any advice as to the cost and extent of this recovery operation would be appreciated.
The car is a 1970 911 coupe, no sunroof ( long wheel base) that has been stripped. All rust removed and new panels welded in. With cleaning up and sealing the glass channels, replacing one front fender( damaged in storage), and bolting on doors and hoods, the tub should be ready for paint.
The suspension points were upgraded to take a 2.7l running gear, and the car has been tracked a few times with a 2.7l & Bilstein set up. The Bilsteins are still there as is the rest of the suspension from when the 2.7l was installed. Power is a 2.2l E engine claimed to be tight and ready to go teamed with a "heavy duty' 5-sp ( don't yet know if this is a later 901 or 915)
All the interior, glass, seals, trim, etc has been boxed up for a few years - and everything is claimed to be complete and in good condition.
So, that's the picture: the car is too far away to just drop in for a look - if I go the distance, it will be with a truck and a commitment to bring it home.
Other than paint, what am I likely to need to reassemble this classic and allow it to run again? .... and at what cost? I will farm out the final paint, but will turn the wrenches on the rest. The objective is to make a fun driver - not a concours restoration. TIA
The car is a 1970 911 coupe, no sunroof ( long wheel base) that has been stripped. All rust removed and new panels welded in. With cleaning up and sealing the glass channels, replacing one front fender( damaged in storage), and bolting on doors and hoods, the tub should be ready for paint.
The suspension points were upgraded to take a 2.7l running gear, and the car has been tracked a few times with a 2.7l & Bilstein set up. The Bilsteins are still there as is the rest of the suspension from when the 2.7l was installed. Power is a 2.2l E engine claimed to be tight and ready to go teamed with a "heavy duty' 5-sp ( don't yet know if this is a later 901 or 915)
All the interior, glass, seals, trim, etc has been boxed up for a few years - and everything is claimed to be complete and in good condition.
So, that's the picture: the car is too far away to just drop in for a look - if I go the distance, it will be with a truck and a commitment to bring it home.
Other than paint, what am I likely to need to reassemble this classic and allow it to run again? .... and at what cost? I will farm out the final paint, but will turn the wrenches on the rest. The objective is to make a fun driver - not a concours restoration. TIA
Last edited by Garth S; 05-01-2006 at 06:40 PM. Reason: typo
05-01-2006, 06:59 PM
#2
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sounds like fun in a Porsche-puzzle kinda way. there are many assumptions implicit in your example -I would thoroughly expose & clarify every aspect in question. doing so now will save $ & headaches (& heartaches) later. there will still be surprises, usually not happy ones ("gee, it turned out to be a factory RS motor, how 'bout that..."). ALL the sellers claims must be verified.
has the car been independently, completely examined by a trusted expert (meaning he is your paid professional) in long nose 911s? just a few key issues...
- has the 2.7 been rebuilt? when? by who? documentation!
- accident history? chassis measured on a jig & conforms to fact specs?
- is it a coil-over susp mod or bilsteins installed in place of oem Boges?
- what about brakes? elect sys?
- well, is it a 901 or 915 gearbox (it matters)? rebuilt? worn out? LSD?
- are ALL the parts there? really? money-back guarentee?
how much time & $? depends on your standards, schedule & labor approach (your own or shop @ $70 / hr?). I'd guess it will take one year + $9-20K direct "investment"... depending.
best of luck.
has the car been independently, completely examined by a trusted expert (meaning he is your paid professional) in long nose 911s? just a few key issues...
- has the 2.7 been rebuilt? when? by who? documentation!
- accident history? chassis measured on a jig & conforms to fact specs?
- is it a coil-over susp mod or bilsteins installed in place of oem Boges?
- what about brakes? elect sys?
- well, is it a 901 or 915 gearbox (it matters)? rebuilt? worn out? LSD?
- are ALL the parts there? really? money-back guarentee?
how much time & $? depends on your standards, schedule & labor approach (your own or shop @ $70 / hr?). I'd guess it will take one year + $9-20K direct "investment"... depending.
best of luck.
05-02-2006, 02:15 PM
#3
First, check the VIN what did it start out as... a "T" or and "E"? It will make a difference in the value of the car.
Second make sure the engine is in good condition... a good complete period "E" engine is probably worth over $6K by itself... a rebuld will cost $6K if you do it yourself, so there's a ton of value swing right there.
Third, if you forgo a 100% factory OEM rebuild and build more of a fun driver you can save alot of effort and money, and still have a cool, and legitimate car with all Porsche or Porsche appropriate parts.... things like "RS" interior and fiberglass bumpers... etc.
Fourth, only do this if you are REALLY committed... it will still cost $15K+ over the cost of the car and take twice as long as you think... if you are not totally able to do the work yourself, you'll get REAL upside down on the car.
I'd say the car is worth $4-6K max as is.
But it is a really cool project
Second make sure the engine is in good condition... a good complete period "E" engine is probably worth over $6K by itself... a rebuld will cost $6K if you do it yourself, so there's a ton of value swing right there.
Third, if you forgo a 100% factory OEM rebuild and build more of a fun driver you can save alot of effort and money, and still have a cool, and legitimate car with all Porsche or Porsche appropriate parts.... things like "RS" interior and fiberglass bumpers... etc.
Fourth, only do this if you are REALLY committed... it will still cost $15K+ over the cost of the car and take twice as long as you think... if you are not totally able to do the work yourself, you'll get REAL upside down on the car.
I'd say the car is worth $4-6K max as is.
But it is a really cool project
05-02-2006, 04:51 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
I think you guys have called this one correctly .... and see my concern: yes, the car will cost $6K by time I get it to the east coast .... and the owners estimate was ~$5K to assemble it as a stock '70 with the 2.2l/5-sp. Sounds quite optimistic I thought - even if everything is there and works without further eng/trans work.
If the tally grows to $15K after arrival, the project fun starts to exceed the final net worth of the car ... especially when I contrast that against option #2 in my quest for an air cooled ride: there is a C4S 3.6 VarioRam/G50(64?) 6-sp and running gear I have available for far less: all I need there is a suitable rolling chassis
... but that may likely be found for far less than a ~$21k rebuild of a '70.
Fun, affordable classic vs a more contemporary rocket?? A possible $6k rebuild of an unknown 2.2l starts to swing the balance to searching for a complete chassis needing a 3.6l drivetrain. Hummmmm
If the tally grows to $15K after arrival, the project fun starts to exceed the final net worth of the car ... especially when I contrast that against option #2 in my quest for an air cooled ride: there is a C4S 3.6 VarioRam/G50(64?) 6-sp and running gear I have available for far less: all I need there is a suitable rolling chassis
... but that may likely be found for far less than a ~$21k rebuild of a '70.Fun, affordable classic vs a more contemporary rocket?? A possible $6k rebuild of an unknown 2.2l starts to swing the balance to searching for a complete chassis needing a 3.6l drivetrain. Hummmmm
