Shift kits - '85 915 transmission
04-21-2006 | 07:57 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 111
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Shift kits - '85 915 transmission
I'm looking to replace the original shifting mechanism in my '85. My objective is to obtain the smoothest (not necessarialy the fastest, but definitely the most precise) shifting possible. Does anyone have a recommendation? Aftermarket or stock?
04-21-2006 | 09:13 PM
#3
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,978
Likes: 2
From: Los Angeles
bmcallister
1. Replace the shift bushings (slop elimination)
2. Get the Wevo shift coupler (more slop elimination)
3. Flush trans fluid and install Swepco 201 (smoother shifts)
4. If you have some spare cash... take a look at the Wevo shifter (for accuracy)
5. Open transmission and fix (replace) any worn parts that are causing the transmission not to shift smooth (if that's what's happening).
TonyG
1. Replace the shift bushings (slop elimination)
2. Get the Wevo shift coupler (more slop elimination)
3. Flush trans fluid and install Swepco 201 (smoother shifts)
4. If you have some spare cash... take a look at the Wevo shifter (for accuracy)
5. Open transmission and fix (replace) any worn parts that are causing the transmission not to shift smooth (if that's what's happening).
TonyG
04-24-2006 | 05:00 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 20,607
Likes: 15
From: Bakersfield, CA, for now...
Ice: Coupler adjustment is a "feel" thing, but I'll get you going in the right direction.
1. Put trans & shifter in neutral.
2. Kneel outside the car, poke your head into the car, forward of the drivers seat, about in the area where your knees would be if you were preparing to drive.
3. With the shift lever cover lifted away from the shifter's base check to be sure that the bottom of the lever, below the bend, is absolutely vertical. If it isn't loosen the clamp bolt at the coupler and adjust fore/aft as necessary.
4. When the lever is vertical snug the bolt enough to prevent it from moving.
5. Move the shift lever to the left stop and pull back on it. The trans should go straight into 2nd. If it doesn't, loosen the clamp bolt again (being careful to not lose your fore/aft adjustment) and adjust the coupler/shift rod relationship until your 2nd gear shift is good.
6. Snug the bolt sufficiently to shift the car without the clamp slipping.
7. Start the car and make sure that 1st & 2nd are really 1st & 2nd.
8. If they're 3/4 do step 5 again.
9. Drive car and make sure that 1, 2, 3, & 4 all "feel" good.
10. Now do the ultimate test - the 4 to 5, and 5 to 4 shifts. 4 to 5 should require you to push past the lockout and then forward into 5th. For accuracy purposes do the 5 to 4 downshift at MORE THAN 50 mph. When you downshift the lockout should do the work and the lever should almost naturally come back into 4th. If you nick reverse (get a light crunch), or if the lever comes back into 2nd you need to fine tune your adjustment, or you have a bushing/shift tower wear problem. Have fun with it!
Pete
1. Put trans & shifter in neutral.
2. Kneel outside the car, poke your head into the car, forward of the drivers seat, about in the area where your knees would be if you were preparing to drive.
3. With the shift lever cover lifted away from the shifter's base check to be sure that the bottom of the lever, below the bend, is absolutely vertical. If it isn't loosen the clamp bolt at the coupler and adjust fore/aft as necessary.
4. When the lever is vertical snug the bolt enough to prevent it from moving.
5. Move the shift lever to the left stop and pull back on it. The trans should go straight into 2nd. If it doesn't, loosen the clamp bolt again (being careful to not lose your fore/aft adjustment) and adjust the coupler/shift rod relationship until your 2nd gear shift is good.
6. Snug the bolt sufficiently to shift the car without the clamp slipping.
7. Start the car and make sure that 1st & 2nd are really 1st & 2nd.
8. If they're 3/4 do step 5 again.
9. Drive car and make sure that 1, 2, 3, & 4 all "feel" good.
10. Now do the ultimate test - the 4 to 5, and 5 to 4 shifts. 4 to 5 should require you to push past the lockout and then forward into 5th. For accuracy purposes do the 5 to 4 downshift at MORE THAN 50 mph. When you downshift the lockout should do the work and the lever should almost naturally come back into 4th. If you nick reverse (get a light crunch), or if the lever comes back into 2nd you need to fine tune your adjustment, or you have a bushing/shift tower wear problem. Have fun with it!
Pete
04-24-2006 | 08:16 PM
#6
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 27,228
Likes: 1,178
From: Cambridge Ontario Canada
Thanks Pete
I just put all ne busings in it and didn't drive much before doing this project
Judging on what you said here I can't be far off it at all .. I am sorry I just don't have the brass kohonis yet to down shift from 5th to 4th at over 50 , the thought of nicking reverse just makes me crinj. The only problem I have is that occasionally I can not get into first without first moving the shifter all the way to the right in neutral, and I must be very patient in getting it into second. I must have an intentional pause when doing this or it just won't go . The other problem is sometimes it just won't go into 2nd at very slow speeds very occasionally . The rest of the gearbox seams okay and I was not sure if it is an adjustment or I need gearbox work. To be honest it is fine for the the type of driving I do , but it would never work at the track. I think maybe I need to drive another SC to figure out if what I am feeling is normal . But I think I am going to rvisit it after reading your post.
ice
I just put all ne busings in it and didn't drive much before doing this project
Judging on what you said here I can't be far off it at all .. I am sorry I just don't have the brass kohonis yet to down shift from 5th to 4th at over 50 , the thought of nicking reverse just makes me crinj. The only problem I have is that occasionally I can not get into first without first moving the shifter all the way to the right in neutral, and I must be very patient in getting it into second. I must have an intentional pause when doing this or it just won't go . The other problem is sometimes it just won't go into 2nd at very slow speeds very occasionally . The rest of the gearbox seams okay and I was not sure if it is an adjustment or I need gearbox work. To be honest it is fine for the the type of driving I do , but it would never work at the track. I think maybe I need to drive another SC to figure out if what I am feeling is normal . But I think I am going to rvisit it after reading your post.
ice
