Mark Kiwior

Anyone painted or stained their garage floor? What did you use and how is it holding up??

Chris Martin

I am looking into floor paints as well. From what I have learned everything you can get from Home Depot and the like is junk. From what I hear paints have worn off in traffic areas and when using a jack and seem to melt when hit by sparks, like when you are heating those stubborn exhaust bolts. Again, this is the opinion of several friends. I have started to look at the expoxy finishes that are available. While just reading the marketing material it seems like the way to go. Although they are considerably more expensive, this is a job I would like to do only once.

I look forward to the groups opinion.

Chris

Paul H

I have had quite a bit of floor work done in my factory. There are no short-cuts, and no cheap solutions. We have the best results with epoxy paint, but only when the floor is ground & polished first. At the very least you would need to etch the floor with acid first. A lot of paints a re suitable for basement floors but not workshops.

Have you considered a clear sealer, they don't last as long but they are easy to re-coat.

Finally, don't forget about how slippery some of these finishes are when wet or oily, if your floor is realy smooth you may need to add anti-slip grit to the paint.

Bryan Moore

I just finished painting my garage floor and, so far, am pleased with the results. I did a lot of research and ended up using a two-part epoxy made by DeVoe (cost about $160). Everyone I talked to said that the normal non-epoxy paint would only be a disappointment. For the all-important preparation, I used a de-greaser (twice), a pressure washer, and then etched the surface. I applied two coats of paint - the first one thinned somewhat as recommended by the supplier. I added non-slip grit to the second coat.

Be forewarned, it's a time-consuming project. There are a lot of steps (degrease, dry, etch, dry, prime, dry, etc.) and when it's done you shouldn't drive a car on it for 5 days or so. In addition, when it's done, your floor will show every bit of dirt, oil, whatever much worse than the old grungy floor did. But - when it's clean (and it's easy to clean) it will look so much better.

Clark Griswald

What about tile? Anyone tried this?

I should think that a tough tile would be a good choice. Sure would clean easily.

Paul H

1) make sure you use a non-slip tile

2) the tile must sit flat on the floor or it will crack in this application

3) use a dark grout, or it will show stains and look terrible

Tom Sharpes

I am just getting ready to put down linoleum black and white tile in my garage. I have had several "test" pices on the floor for a couple of months. No cracking or peeling and when I went to take one of them off it was a real bitch ! The thing was definately stuck on good and tight.

I think another lister PBS911 has finished his garage in the same stuff and really likes it.

I will let you know how it is once I get it down.

Clark Griswald

Paul H , I was thinking of something like linoleum as Tom is trying. I'm sure it would hold up to car tires. My biggest concern would be hard/heavy equipment.

A hydrolic floor jack would put a lot of pressure with it's little metal wheels, for example.

Mark Kiwior

Wouldn’t the linoleum or tile squares pop off in the winter when the concrete gets cold and spring when the humidity goes up??

Tom Sharpes

Mark - What is COLD and that humidity thing you guys keep talking about ?

I guess you're right. I never thought about what would happen when it dips down into the 50's here in the winter.

J richard

The two part epoxy floors are great for equipment and rubber tires, I've specified it for aircraft hangers and anywhere you would expect rubber tired traffic.
The linolium or vinyl composite tile (VCT) has two problems, some of the compositions (not all you may get lucky) will react with the rubber in the tires and cause them to stick if a car sits on them for extended periods, the same problem you will have with standard concrete paint. If you have any moisture around the foundation of the garage you may have water vapor which can cause the tiles to pop or shift. You can get a calcium cloride test kit from a flooring store to see if you will have this problem.

A product that will give you a bulletproof floor is called chemstain which is then covered in another coating chemseal. These are made for factory floors, warehouses etc. for heavy duty traffic. They look good and are easy to clean. A bit more complicated to do but the results are great. You can get it from a construction product distributor such as border products.

Ron

Have you folks with the two part epoxy applications had any problems with cracks in the finish due to the concrete settling? I am wondering if this might be a problem in a new building?

Chris Martin

Thanks for all the great info. I am building a house now and thought I better take care of this now, you know, before all my junk is in the way. Sounda like Griot's might be getting a plug here.

Chris

87slant-nose-cabriolet

chris,
if you are in the process of building, put a
vapor barrier over the sand fill, then put
down your wire reinforcement mesh. this will
prevent water from seeping up through the
concrete and help lessen lifting of whatever
type coating you use.
when i worked at an auto auction, we just used glidden,s floor paint with about a four
year life span.(auctions usually pass about
500 cars per lane aday).
i did the avove to my garage when i built
and mines going on 7 years with no real
maintainance. the only special prep was a
thourough wash with hydrochloric acid and then rinse and dry for two daysmy three car garage took three gallons at $20.00 a gallon

Mrdi

The most important info is making sure you get a good vapor barrier under the slab.You may also want some plunbing. With a new garage I would certainlt want a nice sink and of course a WC.
Mrdi