2.0-2.2,2.4 conversion
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Hello to all! I'm new to the forum. I've just finished Wayne and Bruce's books. My head is spinning like a top! I've got a 66' 911. It has only 77K miles, but the trans needs synchros and the motor, even with 150lbs comp. smokes like crazy. The car sat in a garage for 14 years. I've already considered the motor swap idea, but have decided to repair what's in it. I would like to consider a displacement change if my PC's aren't good. Has anyone done the conversion to 2.2 or 2.4? How is it? What did you do for cams? How far did you go with the case work? Would appreciate any suggestions from those who have been there. Especially if there was something you might have done differently.Thank you very much in advance for any help!
Aloha, Jon
Aloha, Jon
#2
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Hi Jon:
Thats a pretty rare car and well worth restoring,...![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I too, would recommend rebuilding the original motor to retain the car's true value. These can be upgraded to 2.2 litres with some headwork to accomodate the 84mm P/C's.
I would retain your stock cams as those are the Solex cams and an excellent choice. The case can be updated to accept the late-style chain boxes which are far more leakproof. Just do a proper rebuild on your engine-tranny and you enjoy that car for many years to come.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If I can assist you in any way, please don't hesitate to e-mail me directly.
Thats a pretty rare car and well worth restoring,...
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I too, would recommend rebuilding the original motor to retain the car's true value. These can be upgraded to 2.2 litres with some headwork to accomodate the 84mm P/C's.
I would retain your stock cams as those are the Solex cams and an excellent choice. The case can be updated to accept the late-style chain boxes which are far more leakproof. Just do a proper rebuild on your engine-tranny and you enjoy that car for many years to come.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If I can assist you in any way, please don't hesitate to e-mail me directly.
#3
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Keep the car totally origional... this will preserve its value, and at least IMHO, make it more fun to drive as it is a window into the past.
If you have the itch to build a hot rod, get a 2.7 with a dud motor and go to town.
However, going to 2.2 P&Cs should not impact the visible origionality of the car, and will give you a little more torque, so that would be a valid choice. Personally I would not go to a 2.4 as that requires a crank swap (at least)... also, i think the short-stroke engine revs quicker and is an all-around nicer configuration.
If you have the itch to build a hot rod, get a 2.7 with a dud motor and go to town.
However, going to 2.2 P&Cs should not impact the visible origionality of the car, and will give you a little more torque, so that would be a valid choice. Personally I would not go to a 2.4 as that requires a crank swap (at least)... also, i think the short-stroke engine revs quicker and is an all-around nicer configuration.
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Thanky you very much for the replys. Steve, when you talk about the 2.2 conv., is it worth keeping the origional heads in place, or go for the larger valve heads? Looks like the 2.2's had 46/40 mm. valves. If I were to make these changes, Does this really knock the value of the car? Don't get me wrong, I'm a purist at heart, and this is a remarkable 40 year old car. It even has a really bizzare heater system. It looks like it's actually gas-fired. I'd hate to try it. Thankfully, where I live, there won't be a need. Again, thank you for the response. Aloha, Jon
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Hi Jon,
I also have a 1966 coupe. It has a five digit chassis number. From what I have learned here, it may be a "replacement chassis".
I am building a 2.7 motor from my 2.0 motor with 2.2 heads. I am working with Peter Dawe in PA. He is a great guy.
Good luck. Tom
I also have a 1966 coupe. It has a five digit chassis number. From what I have learned here, it may be a "replacement chassis".
I am building a 2.7 motor from my 2.0 motor with 2.2 heads. I am working with Peter Dawe in PA. He is a great guy.
Good luck. Tom
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Originally Posted by JH
Thanky you very much for the replys. Steve, when you talk about the 2.2 conv., is it worth keeping the origional heads in place, or go for the larger valve heads? Looks like the 2.2's had 46/40 mm. valves. If I were to make these changes, Does this really knock the value of the car? Don't get me wrong, I'm a purist at heart, and this is a remarkable 40 year old car. It even has a really bizzare heater system. It looks like it's actually gas-fired. I'd hate to try it. Thankfully, where I live, there won't be a need. Again, thank you for the response. Aloha, Jon
You'll really pick some performance using 2.2-2.4-2.7 heads,...
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I'd simply keep your old stuff around if a future owner ever wanted it, but the 2.2 P/C's and heads will really wake up that car.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#8
Drifting
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Originally Posted by JCP911S
Keep the car totally origional... this will preserve its value, and at least IMHO, make it more fun to drive as it is a window into the past.
DITTO!!!
A well sorted "Short Wheel Base" 911 is as much fun to drive as a 356
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
PS. Post a couple of pics for us...I love the 1966s...thanks in advance...
#9
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Originally Posted by JH
. It even has a really bizzare heater system. It looks like it's actually gas-fired. I'd hate to try it. Thankfully, where I live, there won't be a need. Again, thank you for the response. Aloha, Jon
If you drive a 911 in the cold (like me) you appreciate instant heat as opposed to waiting 20 minutes for the heat exchangers to warm up.
I suspect if that system is totally intact and functuonal, its propbably worth some money, as I'd guess alot of them got broken or tossed.
#10
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Originally Posted by Pedro356C
DITTO!!!
A well sorted "Short Wheel Base" 911 is as much fun to drive as a 356
with a lot more punch...as far as value...never brake a matching numbers car by choice...if you can, keep it as it left Germany!
PS. Post a couple of pics for us...I love the 1966s...thanks in advance...
A well sorted "Short Wheel Base" 911 is as much fun to drive as a 356
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
PS. Post a couple of pics for us...I love the 1966s...thanks in advance...
These SWB cars have been quietly neglected by collectors for some time (67 "S" excluded)... my guess is they will start to appreciate as the frenzy over the LWB cars spills over....
They really are neat cars with alot of unique personality... I'd like ot have one if didn;t mean instant and vengeful divorce... I already have "one car too many"
#11
Burning Brakes
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On a similar note.......... I have recently aquired a 911/07 1970T motor complete with webers. I was interested in making an 'S' out of it. Now if I've done my reasearch, the bore stroke and valves were the same across the range T E & S in 1970. Difference being cams, port size and compression.... did I miss anything? and what can expect this build to set me back?? This car will be used for DE and auto-x exclusively. Any thoughts, opinions and/or advice is welcomed.
Brgds, Peter
Brgds, Peter
#13
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Originally Posted by butzip
On a similar note.......... I have recently aquired a 911/07 1970T motor complete with webers. I was interested in making an 'S' out of it. Now if I've done my reasearch, the bore stroke and valves were the same across the range T E & S in 1970. Difference being cams, port size and compression.... did I miss anything? and what can expect this build to set me back?? This car will be used for DE and auto-x exclusively. Any thoughts, opinions and/or advice is welcomed.
Brgds, Peter
Brgds, Peter
Since you already have the Webbers, converting to MFI does not make economic sense.... althought he MFI is wonderful, it would not probably give more power than the Webbers.
I'd guess a quality P-Car specialist could upgrade your motor to a "S"-like level for about $10K depending on whether you have to crack the case..... probably make sense to do the whole thing while you have it apart.
BTW... the 2.2S crank was a race-quality forged counterbalanced piece... you can use your T crank, but the S crank is a thing of beauty.... that is if crankshafts turn you on.....
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Jon,
Welcome to the Forum. You got a really cool car and you should do what makes you happy. If you want to meet a gang of early 911 "nutcases", try the Early 911S Registry and BBS (http://www.early911sregistry.org/forum/index.php). A tremedous amount of knowledge about the early cars there.
Welcome to the Forum. You got a really cool car and you should do what makes you happy. If you want to meet a gang of early 911 "nutcases", try the Early 911S Registry and BBS (http://www.early911sregistry.org/forum/index.php). A tremedous amount of knowledge about the early cars there.