rnln

Hi guys,
Thanks for comming in.

Does anyone know what size of socket wrench I should buy for the brake light switch? I know the socket need to be the long type.

Open end wrench won't work for me. Don't know why it works for other people. Probably the previous owner mod those little metal brake hoses around the switch.

Thanks.

emac

Use a set of Vice Grips

Ernie 81SC

Peter Zimmermann

24mm, and I respectfully advise you to use a box end wrench. I use a box end that is "stepped" (offset) at its end, which allows clearance.
Pete

rnln

yeah Peter Z, a box end wrench hahaha. Why din't I think of it ahahhaa. Open end didn't work for me. Vice grip didn't work for me. And I don'thave the fited socket so I want to try it but the box end wrench will definitely work for sure. Thanks so muchhhhh

Thanks all much

88911coupe

I used one of those flexible extensions but still had to remove a lot of the HVAC hoses which ended up being a lot easier that I thought it was going to be.

pgrunwald

I used a set of cheap, deep sockets that I got at Harbor Frieght for $9.99 just for this job.

Of course I washed, waxed, and took her to the track to get the shame of being touched by Chinese tools out of her system... It seems Ok as she only developed one small oil return leak after that!


Paul
--------------------
'87 Targa

Porsche Fan

Last Saturday I removed & replaced the Brake Light Switches (hereafter referred to as "BLS"), on my 1987 Coupe.

I installed brand new Genuine Porsche BLSs.

Porsche Part Number: 113.945.515.H

For the "front" BLS, I used a medium depth metric 22 socket and torqued it to 24Nm (I had a deep 22 socket available, but the medium depth 22 socket worked perfectly with my 24Nm spec rachet).

I could not access the rear BLS with a socket (due to a metal brake line and insufficient depth clearance with a med &/or deep socket combined with a rachet - combined depth was blocked by HVAC housing).

Thus, for the rear BLS, I used a long open ended metric 22 wrench. By "flipping" the wrench, I had enough vertical room to loosen/remove the old BLS; and install/tighten the new BLS.

BTW, when installing the new rear BLS, I used a flashlight to "highlight" the gap between the back of the new BLS and the front (or seat) of the Brake Master Cylinder.

I took this precaution as I couldn't fit my torque wrench in the cramped rear quarters and didn't want to risk over tightening the BLS (and thus avaoid "stripping" the soft brass fittings).

I noted that if you do not have metric 22 size tools, standard 7/8" tools are an acceptable alternative (as they are close enough in size that no marring will occur).

my 2 cents,
P Fan

Amber Gramps

Same part # at Save-a-bug is $7.99 just down the street from the dealer.