Wow.. Part of me says keep it as orignal as possible. Get it running and, if it looks as good as it sounds do nothing. Then again, If you actually plan on driving it, EVERY piece of rubber in the suspension and brakes needs to be replaced. And, since you are "tearing" it apart to get to those pieces, then maybe some thicker torsion and sway bars are in order to enhance your "canyon carving" Decisions.. Decisions..

 

please dont molest it.

all she needs is a nice massage and then a bit more loving.

save the tires & every piece you pull off the car, make copies of all documents, take pictures of any process done, rebuild the carbs, perhaps youll need to do a little restore on the tank [once its drained], all the lines should be replaced, save the plates etc

oh yes, buy a Halon fire suppresant to keep in the car that is at least 6 pds.

if you dont mind, what did you pay for her & where on earth was she found?

congrats

remember to take pictures for us!

 

gringo, be aware; once you do anything beyond get it cleaned up, in tune, & safe to preserve it, it can never be an original low mileage "preservation example" again. if it were me, I'd get it back on the street, address obvious mechanical issues properly, & decide what to do next then. good luck!

 

First time posting pics. Bare with me.
-Gringo

 

Here another one. Lots of snow to boot!-Gringo

 

here my 1971 911T with 23,418miles.

 

Gringo,

I'll type it again, you've got an extremely rare car with good colors. If it's fully original and running well, you're looking at a $25,000 car easily. If she's really in top shape and unmolested with original rubber, documentation in order and all it's other original parts, this car could push to $40k to the right buyer. You just can not find these cars...

Jay

 

Wow, that car's a little jewel. I know people say cars were meant to be driven, and for the most part I agree, but this one......

 

as far as your Marrelli cap & rotor are concerned, they are currently Unobtainium. But yours are like new anyway, take a little emory cloth and clean up the metal in them and run them. somebody is currently putting together a repoduction part for those but not done yet. your cap & rotor will do fine for the time being. The new points are sold on pelican parts.
nabil

 

Wow. What a car and what a find. I think everyone has chimed in on the issue of preserving it as much as possible. If you work on the motor, defintately don't change the specs. Anything you do to make it driveable should be done in such a way as to easily restore it back. But you know this.

As far as the fuel situation.. One thing that is likely is that the fuel tank might be rusty which would be hard to fix without compromising originality.

I think all of us would give a lot for just one drive in an early chassis with so few miles!

Congrats on a great find and a great car. You are indeed fortunate, but not without a serious dilema! A good problem to have, that's for sure!

Vol

 

Hi Gringo...it looks like a pretty original car although the low resolution pictures don't show quite well...I don't mean to be demanding but better resolution pics would be great...

If I were you, I'd order a Certificate of Authenticity from PCNA in order to confirm matching #s for engine case and tranny...if your car is US specs, you must have Zeniths 40 TIN carburators (Webers for ROW cars) and you'll need to look for a professional rebuilder as you don't want tohe wrench across the street to mess with your carbs...another important point is to organize your records to build a mileage history for the car...with 5 digits odometer, the only proof is documented records such as dealer invoices stating mileage...as Volney said, you have a sweet problem to deal with...

Good luck...

 

The tore down the top half of the engine yesterday. All went well. Based on your input I have a pretty clear sense of direction now. Rennsport has also been very helpful. I have cleaned up the original Marrelli, it looks perfect. I filed the carbon off the rotor. I am bagging and labeling all original parts. I am replacing the Beru ignition wires. With the Zenith carbs, they are beyond my ability to properly rebuild. One of the plastic tubes was apparently damaged in a backfire. They look very rebuildable and I am going to save them, should I ever want to show the car. For driveability I have decided to fork out some serious $$$ and go for the PMO kit. I also am going with some SS brake lines and new brake pads. I will set the valve lash and timing, etc. As for the fuel tank, I am going to replace the filter and then inspect it after 500 miles. I was unable to find any "deep six" rims, and am going to roll around on some 16" Fuchs. Not original, I know, but they should be pretty nice on the mountain passes. Thanks for the help and happy motoring!- Gringo

 

If it were me, I'd find a set of 6x15 Fuchs (new style, and easier to aquire) before I'd install the 16's.

This preserves the gearing, VERY important at high altitudes, as well as maintains a more original appearance.

Just MHO, tho.

 

Before spending $2.5k on PMO carbs...very good by the way...consider Motor Meister for a rebuild or exchange...I'd go rebuild for originality purpose and once well set, Zeniths are very reliable...

http://www.motormeister.com/suz/carb...buretors_6.htm

 

Pedro, respectfully, a quick search of Rennlist and Pelican Parts should reveal why a person probably would not want to go to Motor Meister with an original 22,000 mile 911T.