Best oils for SOCAL 3.2 w/G50
#1
Best oils for SOCAL 3.2 w/G50
Greetings,
I'm getting ready to change all the oils in my Carrera ('89 3.2 w/G50). I live in San Diego and am looking for recommendations for oils, both engine and tranny. I get a little grinding going into 3rd gear and hope this may remedy the problem.
And as far as engine oil - 20W-50? 10W-40? Valvoline? Castrol? Pennzoil? Kendall? Are they all the same?
Thanks, Greg
I'm getting ready to change all the oils in my Carrera ('89 3.2 w/G50). I live in San Diego and am looking for recommendations for oils, both engine and tranny. I get a little grinding going into 3rd gear and hope this may remedy the problem.
And as far as engine oil - 20W-50? 10W-40? Valvoline? Castrol? Pennzoil? Kendall? Are they all the same?
Thanks, Greg
#3
As Ked mentioned, the archives have loads on this. In short, for SD, I'd definitely stick with a 20w/50. I use Kendall GT1 (dino oil) on the recommendation of more than a few of the pro gurus. But mine is a track car. Were it a street car (as the Kendall is a pain to locate), I'd use Castrol GTX as it's inexpensive and good stuff. If the car already has synthetic and you're not leaking, use Mobil 1. But if using dino, I'd continue to use dino. As for tranny, I'd use Mobil 1 (synthetic) in 75w/90. Great stuff ...may not "fix" your grinding, but it is good oil.
Edward
Edward
#4
I'm far from an expert, but I've read all the posts . . .
Castrol GTX for dino & Mobile 1 for synthetic consistently get the nod.
For transmission Mobile 1 or Redline NS (for non LSD) seem to be popular.
Ian
Castrol GTX for dino & Mobile 1 for synthetic consistently get the nod.
For transmission Mobile 1 or Redline NS (for non LSD) seem to be popular.
Ian
#6
I have an '87 w/ 66K. I use Mobile 1 in the transmission w/ LSD and Castrol Syntec Blend 20-50 in the motor.
I don't know what was in the tranny before I changed it but it got better with the Mobile 1.
If you watch the Pep Boys or Checker sales you can pick up the Syntec Blend for $2.00/qt. At $2.00/qt it is cheap enough to change frequently and the blend does run a slight bit cooler than the regular Castrol based on my un-unscientific observations after some track sessions.
Paul
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'87 Targa
I don't know what was in the tranny before I changed it but it got better with the Mobile 1.
If you watch the Pep Boys or Checker sales you can pick up the Syntec Blend for $2.00/qt. At $2.00/qt it is cheap enough to change frequently and the blend does run a slight bit cooler than the regular Castrol based on my un-unscientific observations after some track sessions.
Paul
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'87 Targa
#7
On the reccomendation of a knowledgeable mechanic, I run Kendall dino in my engine.
I run Swepco in the transmission.
If you're grinding in third, try adjusting your coupler. If that doesn't help, replace all of your bushings (end of the shift rod, hanger, and coupler). If that doesn't help, unfortunately your tranny may be telling you it's time for a rebuild.
Good luck.
Scott
I run Swepco in the transmission.
If you're grinding in third, try adjusting your coupler. If that doesn't help, replace all of your bushings (end of the shift rod, hanger, and coupler). If that doesn't help, unfortunately your tranny may be telling you it's time for a rebuild.
Good luck.
Scott
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#8
Hi,
I am new to Porsche, just bought my 1988 64k on the clock. Engine running strong and no leak but I still decide to use 20/50 as always due to the "enhance leak" issue of synthetic. I had bad experience on my previous car, BMW. It had around 100k without leak (sure it was going to leak but not yet). After I switch to M1 synthetic, it leak bad. I switch back right away, doesn't stop the leak but it seem to slow down.
Now my 88 is "new" to me, unknown oil type the previous owner use. He doesn't even know, always bring it to the shop. Who know what the shop use. So I choose to go with 20/50 either Valvoline or Castrol because I always use them with good result and BMW dealer use them too.
Edward and others,
I have a question on tranny fluid. Since you agree to use mineral 20/50 on the engine, not synthetic do to the "enhance leak", why should we use synthetic 75/90, why not also use the non-synthetic 75/90 or 75/140?
Also for clutch fluid, any specific type or any "clutch fluid" at autopart stores is fine?
Thanks.
I am new to Porsche, just bought my 1988 64k on the clock. Engine running strong and no leak but I still decide to use 20/50 as always due to the "enhance leak" issue of synthetic. I had bad experience on my previous car, BMW. It had around 100k without leak (sure it was going to leak but not yet). After I switch to M1 synthetic, it leak bad. I switch back right away, doesn't stop the leak but it seem to slow down.
Now my 88 is "new" to me, unknown oil type the previous owner use. He doesn't even know, always bring it to the shop. Who know what the shop use. So I choose to go with 20/50 either Valvoline or Castrol because I always use them with good result and BMW dealer use them too.
Edward and others,
I have a question on tranny fluid. Since you agree to use mineral 20/50 on the engine, not synthetic do to the "enhance leak", why should we use synthetic 75/90, why not also use the non-synthetic 75/90 or 75/140?
Also for clutch fluid, any specific type or any "clutch fluid" at autopart stores is fine?
Thanks.
#10
Originally Posted by rnln
Also for clutch fluid, any specific type or any "clutch fluid" at autopart stores is fine?
Thanks.
Paul
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'87 Targa
#11
RicoJay, there is a good write-up & chart in your owner's manual that addresses the oil grades appropriate for various ambient temp ranges. I believe that for starting temps regularly below 30F (but above 20F), it's ok to stay w/ a 20W (as in 20W-50), but one can change to a 15W- or 10W-, too. Here in the South, I run 15W-50 synth year 'round in my '87. Cheers!
#13
pgrunwald,
huh? one resevoir for both brake and clutch? That mean it's as simple as refil to the same resovoir and pump and bleed the clutch. Then do the same for 4 brakes. Or is there any special order I have to follow? Such as pump brake once, and pump clutch once, right?
huh? one resevoir for both brake and clutch? That mean it's as simple as refil to the same resovoir and pump and bleed the clutch. Then do the same for 4 brakes. Or is there any special order I have to follow? Such as pump brake once, and pump clutch once, right?
#14
The owner's manual for my '83 SC says 20W-50 is good for temps down to 20 f. Since here in CT it gets bitterly cold before we get actual snow, I put 15W-40 in for the Fall/pre-salt days of winter. I plan on driving it until the salt gets put on the road. Come Spring, I will put in 20W-50.