MDL

Barry, I laid awake half the night wondering where I could find a torque wrench with that capacity. I found the torn boot when I put the car on jack stands in order to bleed my brakes before my tech inspection for an upcoming DE. I can install the shaft and load the car on my trailer and take it to the Porsche dealer where I get it inspected and have them torque the nut while doing the inspection. I'll give them a call this morning!

BTW, I am ordering a new axle, stub nut and washer. Do I need to order anything else? Do the new C/V joints/ axle assembly come already greased? What about gaskets? I read the procedure in my 101 Porsche projects but they only talked about replacing C/V joints not the whole assembly.

Thanks,

Dan.

MDL

UPDATE!

Just got home with the giant 4' handled 1" ratchet (old Snap-On) that I borrowed from my heavy equipment pal and the nut came off like butter Not only that, He has a torque wrench with a 1000 lbs capacity as well.

Thanks to all!

Dan.

theiceman

gotta ask why you did all that to replace a cv boot... why not undo the 6 M8 cv bolts on each boot remove the half axle and refurb ? is there something different about your car ?

MDL

Ice,

I replaced the entire axle. My car is an 1988. Might be different than yours. When I found the torn boot, I spun the tire and I could hear a slight click in the top joint. I have never rebuilt a c/v joint before and I have a DE next weekend and not a lot of time to work on the car. To remove my axle I removed the stub nut, removed the 6 8mm bolts and entire assembly slipped right out. I was confused when I read in 101 Porsche projects about removing the bolts on "each end". I don't have any bolts on the other end, just the stub nut.

Dan.

theiceman

Ah then your car must be different from mine then , as I had thought. Yours reminds me more of the VW GTI, what a pain , i feel for you. On mine it is just 6 bolts on the inner, 6 bolts on the outer , and the entire half axle comes away leaving both inner and outer stub axles in place.
PS do yourself a HUGE favor and recheck the Cv bolt after about 3-5000 miles, 3 of mine backed out. If they are not on their put some schnorr or belleville washers on their to prevent this.

Good work .

MDL

Ice, Yes, I read a thread here quite a while back talking about the bolts backing out. When I removed the bolts, the threads were covered in grease. Very easy to see why they could back out. I don't think the bolts are long enough to use lock washers as only about 1/2" of the bolt threads into the trans. I guess I could get longer bolts. I plan on cleaning out the bolt holes really well with brake cleaner and use the red loctite. and torque to spec. But I will check them...

BTW. I bought a new nut for the stub. Nothing wrong with the old one, but I figured anything that has been torqued to 339 ft pounds must be stretched to some degree. The nut came off fine after I got the proper tool but it did not have any anti seize or anything. I wonder if I should apply some anti seize to the new one when I reassemble?

theiceman

you really think it's gonna help on top of your 300lbs of torque :-)
I think replacing the nut however is a fantastic idea.

Daniel Dudley

200 pound man on an 18 inch bar should do it.

Dave Thomas

Just to clarify a few things:

Earlier cars had CV joints bolted at both ends of the axle. Carreras bolt on at the tranny end, and the stub adle is part of the CV joint at the wheel end.

Porsche calls for the big nut at the hub to be replaced. It's a locking nut, has a deformed ring that facilitates the locking, one use only.

theiceman

phew... thank god for early cars.... I am "only" 170 lbs so I would have had to find a 6 ft breaker bar to loosen it .. :-)