thevenet

Hello,

I'm a 993 guy and do most of my posting in that section, but my in-laws are interested in a 1969 911T so I'm coming to the experts for an opinion. From what I understand the car has matching numbers for the engine, tranny and body. Body is in good/fair shape interior will have to be replaced. I don't think the car is starting right now, but shouldn't take much to turn it over. The seller is asking $8500. The truth is I don't know a T from an E so if anyone can educate me on the pros and cons of this year and model i would greatly appreciate it.

reed

I suggest you post this question over at early911Sregistry.org. The many experts there will give you as much info as you want. It doesn't matter if the car is not an S as long as it's an early 911 I'm sure you get plenty of help.

early911S Website

thevenet

Will do. Thanks Reed!

Jay Laifman

I can give my 2 cents. I have a 1973.5 911T. It has CIS injection, not mechanical injection or carbs. In general, the T, E and S are different option and performance packages, with the T generally being the stripped down, slower car, the S being the fastest with the most options, and the E being in the middle but with a special front suspension which many people have swapped out for the S type. The difference are from cam, compression, carbs/injection and exhaust. And, even with the T being generally more stripped, each car can be different. My T for example came with all the S options except of course the engine and front brakes. Also, when the T first came out, it was meant to be a less expensive car and had less quality parts. But by the end of the T, E, & S's, in '73, most of the differences had been change to be the same, including the quality of the parts in the engine.

Then there is the question of what is "better". Yes, the S's are the fastest and the difference is most pronounced at the top end. But, the T's tend to be smoother and nicer to drive around town and in daily traffic. Is that a T-owner's way of justifying having a T over an S? Perhaps. But, I can say that I've had my 911T for 17 years and it's been a hugely rewarding car with no end in sight. And, with the CIS, it's been trouble-free with no worn out throttle shafts or injection cams, etc., and no issue of always being in balance - but again, with CIS it doesn't offer the tuning ability that the other cars do.

Did you know more 912s were sold than 911s? Doesn't make them better. Just that it doesn't have to be the top performer to be loved.

thevenet

Thanks Jay. I believe the '69 was probably still dual carbed so that has its benefits and costs, but I appreciate your input. Anybody out there driving a '69 T?

Steve Zitelli

The 69T had a 2.0 liter engine with dual Zenith carbs.Rust is a big problem with this vintage 911.I owned a 71T for about 20yrs that I gave up because of the rust.The engines are very durable if taken care of.They don't really command alot of money so $8500 for a car that is in fair condition is kind of high.You could probaly get a really nice looking and running car for about 9-10k.
I'm on my 3rd 911 and my favorite was my silver 71T,they are great cars.

M491

Rust is the big issue, esp. in your part of the country. Gotta be clear on the rust situation before doing ANYTHING.

LaughaC

Rust is one of my worst enemies, and I hear pre '74 P-cars are prone to it. After spending years trying to keep my '59 Mercedes convertible rust-free while driving it often, I finally had to give up and sent it to an Arizona storage site. It has been there about 5 years now, but I strongly believe that cars should be driven. Someday if I happen to move to a dry climate I will pull it out of the mothballs and drive it as long as insurance will cover its value.

JCP911S

For anybody contemplating a small bumper (pre-74) 911, I would recommend paying the price for a straight, clean, no rust car. Unless it is an "S", a fixer-upper will leave you financially upside down.

Paint on a straight no-rust body is $5-6K
Interior Restoration $2-4K
Motor rebuild is $6-9K
Gearbox rebuild is $2K+

The market for these cars is very erratic right now, but I would guess a nice solid 911T "Driver" (meaning no rust, solid mechanics and decent paint and interior) to be in the low teens.

Generally the later the car the better. The 69 is probably a less desirable model based on only having the 2.0 engine. Also the Zenith Carbs can be finnicky on the cars, although I have not first hand experience... a swap to Webbers is a couple thousand dollars.

I would guess that $8500 for a car that needs anything but minor work is probably too high.