CIS timing / WUR
09-07-2005, 11:04 PM
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CIS timing / WUR
OK. Well I haven't posted in awhile but I'll let you, hopefully to little butchering, know my situation. I have a '75 ROW engine that I'm still working through and understanding. I have a good understanding of how things are supposed to work but little money to put into actually testing the CIS system 
. I had the engine tuned to my best understanding about timing and air / fuel ratio, etc by myself with rule of thumb rules. And yes, I am a newbie but have good aspirations. As a side note, my engine really has a hard time getting off of first gear...it takes alot of rpm and a good lug in the engine to get it going. I took the WUR off and cleaned, upon re-assembling I noticed that the 'control arm' did not touch the spring upon re-assembling. Therefore, my control pressure initially was set high...I.E WUR acting as if the engine was always warm. The butchering began....I bent the WUR control arm to where it touched the spring upon re-assembling so that I would (atleast at cold) obtain the correct 'control pressure'...yes, it is un-verified but lets say no force is acting on the diaphram of the WUR. I have yet to verify the warm control arm at the warm condition. So, after the modification, obviously the engine ran real rich. I leaned it out by what seamed atleast a full turn or more CCW by the control arm screw. After that it osillated a good bit... say 200-900 rpm. It seemed to get better after a day of sitting? This is not a 'driving car'...simply a projet car in progress. Long story short....is that I feel I'm in a cold osilation zone probably effected by vacuum osillation on the distributor. I talked with a CIS bud on this and he said I'm supposed to do timing with the distributor vacuum disconnted and PLUGGED. I had initially set timing with distributor vacuum disconnected but NOT PLUGGED. I know to get the engine at operating temp. before timing (and fuel) but which is corrected, distributor vacuum plugged or not plugged. Not plugged raises the RPM as more air is induced. Another curious question...after adjust the WUR regulator...is it safe to assume my timing has changed atleast at cold? Please understand that I don't need things perfect right now...only a good running point...my plan is to go with 2.7 or up to 3.0 with Carbs, cams, piston/cylinder, cooling, exhaust, etc. It's a good hobby... but oh so more.
. I had the engine tuned to my best understanding about timing and air / fuel ratio, etc by myself with rule of thumb rules. And yes, I am a newbie but have good aspirations. As a side note, my engine really has a hard time getting off of first gear...it takes alot of rpm and a good lug in the engine to get it going. I took the WUR off and cleaned, upon re-assembling I noticed that the 'control arm' did not touch the spring upon re-assembling. Therefore, my control pressure initially was set high...I.E WUR acting as if the engine was always warm. The butchering began....I bent the WUR control arm to where it touched the spring upon re-assembling so that I would (atleast at cold) obtain the correct 'control pressure'...yes, it is un-verified but lets say no force is acting on the diaphram of the WUR. I have yet to verify the warm control arm at the warm condition. So, after the modification, obviously the engine ran real rich. I leaned it out by what seamed atleast a full turn or more CCW by the control arm screw. After that it osillated a good bit... say 200-900 rpm. It seemed to get better after a day of sitting? This is not a 'driving car'...simply a projet car in progress. Long story short....is that I feel I'm in a cold osilation zone probably effected by vacuum osillation on the distributor. I talked with a CIS bud on this and he said I'm supposed to do timing with the distributor vacuum disconnted and PLUGGED. I had initially set timing with distributor vacuum disconnected but NOT PLUGGED. I know to get the engine at operating temp. before timing (and fuel) but which is corrected, distributor vacuum plugged or not plugged. Not plugged raises the RPM as more air is induced. Another curious question...after adjust the WUR regulator...is it safe to assume my timing has changed atleast at cold? Please understand that I don't need things perfect right now...only a good running point...my plan is to go with 2.7 or up to 3.0 with Carbs, cams, piston/cylinder, cooling, exhaust, etc. It's a good hobby... but oh so more.
09-08-2005, 05:11 AM
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Hmmmmm...
Oscillations usually indicates a fat mixture, on my 79' it take a 1/8 off a turn between fat-mix with oscillation and "perfect"-mix without osc. Try fiddleing with it in 1/8 turns at a time.
You can also remove air filter, and adjust to the point where any movement of the air plate wil drop rpm's.
Don't wory about rpm goes up/down with/out plugged vaccum line, as long as the line is away from the dissy, the timing you set will only be affected by rpm, and you just adjust the idle screw until the RPM is 950 (or what's supposed to be, se haynes). I think it's 5 Degree BTDC at 900 RPM, Vith Vaccum disconnected.
After timing adjustment, you just put the vacuum line back on and adjust idle rpm again.
Oscillations usually indicates a fat mixture, on my 79' it take a 1/8 off a turn between fat-mix with oscillation and "perfect"-mix without osc. Try fiddleing with it in 1/8 turns at a time.
You can also remove air filter, and adjust to the point where any movement of the air plate wil drop rpm's.
Don't wory about rpm goes up/down with/out plugged vaccum line, as long as the line is away from the dissy, the timing you set will only be affected by rpm, and you just adjust the idle screw until the RPM is 950 (or what's supposed to be, se haynes). I think it's 5 Degree BTDC at 900 RPM, Vith Vaccum disconnected.
After timing adjustment, you just put the vacuum line back on and adjust idle rpm again.
