m-keith

As I am shopping for a 911, I have begun to notice that some of them seem to have the ride height at the rear of the car set higher than others. Where some appear level, other appear to have the ride height in the rear set higher than the ride height in the front. Does this indicate some sort of problem?

Stephen Masraum

It shouldn't be a problem. For cars still set at US height the rear will be set higher than the front. My car is about 26.25" from the ground to the high point of the front wheel well, and about the same distance in the rear which because the front and rear wheel wells are cut differently actually makes my car angled down in the front more than it should be. Many of the US cars are like that so the rear bumper matches the US bumper height requirements. A cheap easy way to test for the correct "Euro" ride height of a car is that the front measures 25.5" and the rear measures 25". Those measurements should actually make the car angle down towards the front by about 1 deg. When I get a decent job again (IT, this dot com crash, Sept 11, and the Enron crap has really hurt my job prospecting since laid off in April) I am going to take my car to Protechnik in Sugarland to get the car lowered, corner balanced, and aligned. Make sure you check the LSR-PCA website (Houston region of PCA) for cars for sale.

m-keith

Thanks for the info. I was seeing it so often, I began to think it was some kind of suspension wear issue. Is it very expensive to have the ride height changed to Euro specs?

By the way, we're in the same neck of the woods. I'm in southeast Houston very close to Pasadena. It's only about a 5 minute trip down the Gulf Frwy for me to get to Friendswood.

Later!

Stephen Masraum

Of course the cost will vary depending upon who does it, but if you have the ride height done (and the corner balance and alignment) I've heard anywhere from $450-$800. Dropping the front should be pretty easy, but dropping the back is harder but can be done by a DIYer. Of course lowering the car changes the alignment specs and will most likely throw the car out of balance so rather than doing some of it myself and then having to take it someplace for the rest I'll probably just have a pro do it all. Lot's of people actually have done their own alignment as well. I am somewhat interested in tackling that myself, but it's too important to be "thinking" you've got it right.
Yep, it's a small world. If you have any questions or want to look it over or go for a ride let me know. I'm on an odd schedule right now but I'm sure we could work something out.

Bob Chapman

Maybe not fair to provide an informal quote I was given to lower, align and corner balance an '89 Carrera, but Eurocar-werk said $360. Then, it was recommended that I leave it at US-spec until ...

The *design* ride height is at the RoW specification, so that's sort of where it belongs. Some additional recommendations I have seen include removal of bump-stop spacer at upper strut attach (mandatory) and shimming of steering rack to restore the steering geometry (bump-steer effects if not done). This applies especially if car is lowered beyond design height. What I don't know is whether steering rack mounting is unique for US cars. Well, actually there are a lot of things I don't know, but save that for later

Stephen Masraum

Bob, that sounds like a pretty good price and is here in Houston.
Yes when the car is lowered you need to remove the big rubber bushing at the top of the strut to keep the strut from bottoming out on compression and blowing out. And yes if the car is lowered too much then you need to either shim the rack up or add a bump steer kit to the end of the tie rods. The bump steer kit should be really easy to add since I don't think it's any more involved than a couple of bolts, adding a couple of really thick aluminum washers under the rack, and then reinstalling the bolts, but I could be wrong. As you say though I don't think that's necessary unless you lower the car farther than the Euro or design specs.

m-keith

I've spoken to Eric at Eurocar Werk, & he seems quite knowledgeable. Also, he doesn't seem to mind answering my questions even though I've called 3 or 4 times & have yet to spend a penny there.

I'm not looking to "slam" the car. It's just that a car set at US spec ride height looks like it's jacked up in back to go drag racing.

Steve, thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it at some point. I'm interested to see if a Targa has more head room than a coupe. One of my requirements for the car I get will be that I fit in it with my racing helmet on. I test drove a non-sunroof, '74 coupe the other day, & I barely fit. It wasn't a comfortable fit either. I imagine that a coupe with a sunroof would not work. I am more inclined to get a SC than an earlier car, & I have yet to see an SC coupe without a sunroof. I'm hoping that a Targa will be a better fit. Even though conventional wisdom has it that a coupe is best for the track, this won't be exclusively a track car.

If I find the Targa to be a better fit, that will help me to focus my search. I have the time anyway as I have to sell my Alfa before I can get a 911.

Vampire

I had an '86 Targa and fit in it with a helmet. I now have a sunroof '86 coupe. I am 6'4". I could not drive with a helmet in the coupe. Recaro SRD seats helped, but I still had to lower the mounting of the seat. The seat mounting in an SC is a little different than in a Carrera.

m-keith

How is the seat mounting in a Carrera different from an SC? Is it higher or lower?

Vampire

I don't know that the height is any different between the SC and Carrera, but the brackets that the seat slider bolts to is different. The SC has easier access when changing seats. It is not a major issue at all.

I had my brackets cut out and welded back in at a lower position. That, combined with an SRD gave me an additional 2 inches of head room. I also had some leg room added added at the same time.