Taking out engine
#1
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I posted an early question about getting my transmission rebuilt on my 77 911 3.0. I have decided to remove car from road, take the transmission myself and then reevaluate my next step. Currently, my next step is reviewing the steps involved in getting the transmission off my car. After reading the Haynes manual a few times last night about engine and transmission removal I have a few questions.
Do I need to remove the heat exchangers?
Where is the Oil Pressure switch?
Clutch Cable, any anticipated problems? Will it be as easy to reassemble as dissasemble?
Haynes says: "Under Centre Tunnel(The flap in backseat area) pull rubber bellows which are now exposed, towards the front of the car and the cut the lockwire and unscrew the lock bolt". What is this cutting all about?
What is this thing I need to turn and loosen before removing the transmission? I's three allen head bolts I need to remove.
Am I getting in way over my head? Is this a two person job? Is doing it myself not worth the trouble in savings?
Do I need to remove the heat exchangers?
Where is the Oil Pressure switch?
Clutch Cable, any anticipated problems? Will it be as easy to reassemble as dissasemble?
Haynes says: "Under Centre Tunnel(The flap in backseat area) pull rubber bellows which are now exposed, towards the front of the car and the cut the lockwire and unscrew the lock bolt". What is this cutting all about?
What is this thing I need to turn and loosen before removing the transmission? I's three allen head bolts I need to remove.
Am I getting in way over my head? Is this a two person job? Is doing it myself not worth the trouble in savings?
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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There is also some good info here: <a href="http://tech.rennlist.com/911/pdf/EngineDropConsiderationswaltfricke.PDF" target="_blank">http://tech.rennlist.com/911/pdf/EngineDropConsiderationswaltfricke.PDF</a>
#6
Instructor
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David, You might check and see if anyone in your area would be willing to help. You would be suprised on how many people would offer to help you with an engine pull. I have been waiting for someone in my area have an engine drop get together, you can really learn alot. So if your in my area I am ready to help.
Oh, no never pulled a 911 engine before myself. VWs and Chevy so far
Oh, no never pulled a 911 engine before myself. VWs and Chevy so far
#7
Instructor
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Toss the Haynes. Get Waynes "101 projects" and a Bentley. Both have sections on engine removal.
I've never pulled one myself but it would help to have someone to assist when its time to drop it.
I've never pulled one myself but it would help to have someone to assist when its time to drop it.
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#8
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Hello, I recommend you read the following books: Haynes Restoration Manual Porsche 911 by Lindsay Porter and Peter Morgan. They are very detailed on how to remove the engine. Also read the 101 Prjects by Dempsey, it's shows detail pictures.
Let me tell you, I just finished removing and installing the engine on my 1977 911S. I tried both methods: removing the engine with and without transmission, and I found the second one a bit easier.
If you prefer to remove the engine without the transmission, it'll be complicated to try to mount the engine back in the transmission. Here is a summary of what you need to do
Removing Engine and Transmission as a unit:
Drain engine oil, remove filter, raise car with a 4x4 block, place it on stands as high as possible.
If car is equiped with air condition, loose fan pulley bolt, remove belt from A/C, then remove the A/C without disconecting the A/C hoses (Remove complete with the bracke and put it aside. Next
On your right side, there are three hoses you need to disconnect. the S hose that is connected to air box compartment and the oil filler neck, the breather hose located just next to oil filter , and a smaller hose connected to oil filler neck. Next
Moving to the left side, disconnect all hoses that come from the heat exchangers, remove the large black plastic blower hose. By doing this you'll have more room to work on the rear of the engine. disconnect the wire harness and the connections to the CDS unit, all these connections are located on your left side corner. Make a note or take a picture on the location of each wire for reassembly.
Now your are ready to remove the Fuel Filter top connection. Grab the filter with one wrench, and with the other wrenche remove the top connection, carefully. next remove the bottom connection on the fuel accumulator. There are also one or two vacuum hoses you need to remove from the left side of the engine. Now you should have room to remove the fuel line that is located on the rear of the car, you can access this hose from the left, it may be necceary to remove blower motor for more room.
Now move to the inside of the car. Right on the back behind the shift, there is a plate, you need to remove four screws to remove this plate. You'll see the shift coupler, just behind it, you'll see a small hex screw, disconnect this screw to remove the transmission rod.
Now you are ready to move below the car. This are the things you must do in this area:
Disconnect the large S hose from the Oil tank, disconnect the hard Oil line that is attached to the oil cooler, disconnect the two heater exchanger hoses, next disconnect the starter connections, move the the clutch assembly, disconnect the helper spring, the clutch cable, and the U shaped spring. Move to the very back of the transmission, disconnect the reverse light swith, you'll need some pointed tip pliers and a screw driver, you'll find a black rubber boot at the end, put boot aside, and remove these two wires. Now look to the right and look for ground strap that is connected to the transmission, you need to remove this strap too. Now you are ready to disconnect the CV joints from the transmission, you need to remove 6 hex bolts from each side.
Now you are ready to remove the top two bolts that hold the engine, they are located at each corner on the rear of the engine, disconnect the stabilizer bar, and remove the two bolts that hold the transmission. I think this is pretty much what you need to do. I hope this helps.
Before you start, I recommend you buy the highest lifting capacity jack you could afford, a set of jack stands, a set of 4x4, a cart to place the engine ( try finding one that is open from one end and constructed from steel so you could easily remove the jack from the engine and place it on the stand.
This is what I did, I place a cart right below the engine, the cart is open from one end with metal on the edges and open from the middle (Like a U shape) Once the cart is below the car, slide the jack from the open space on the cart. As the engine came down, I rested the engine from the heat exchangers on the cart, then I was able to remove the jack easily. Then I grab a long 4x4 block, place it right in the middle of the car, near the the stabilizer bar. place right on the edge of the subfloor perpendicular to the location of the wheels. You should be able to raise the car very high this way. Once you raise the car, you should be able to slide the engine out with the cart.
Regards
Louis
Let me tell you, I just finished removing and installing the engine on my 1977 911S. I tried both methods: removing the engine with and without transmission, and I found the second one a bit easier.
If you prefer to remove the engine without the transmission, it'll be complicated to try to mount the engine back in the transmission. Here is a summary of what you need to do
Removing Engine and Transmission as a unit:
Drain engine oil, remove filter, raise car with a 4x4 block, place it on stands as high as possible.
If car is equiped with air condition, loose fan pulley bolt, remove belt from A/C, then remove the A/C without disconecting the A/C hoses (Remove complete with the bracke and put it aside. Next
On your right side, there are three hoses you need to disconnect. the S hose that is connected to air box compartment and the oil filler neck, the breather hose located just next to oil filter , and a smaller hose connected to oil filler neck. Next
Moving to the left side, disconnect all hoses that come from the heat exchangers, remove the large black plastic blower hose. By doing this you'll have more room to work on the rear of the engine. disconnect the wire harness and the connections to the CDS unit, all these connections are located on your left side corner. Make a note or take a picture on the location of each wire for reassembly.
Now your are ready to remove the Fuel Filter top connection. Grab the filter with one wrench, and with the other wrenche remove the top connection, carefully. next remove the bottom connection on the fuel accumulator. There are also one or two vacuum hoses you need to remove from the left side of the engine. Now you should have room to remove the fuel line that is located on the rear of the car, you can access this hose from the left, it may be necceary to remove blower motor for more room.
Now move to the inside of the car. Right on the back behind the shift, there is a plate, you need to remove four screws to remove this plate. You'll see the shift coupler, just behind it, you'll see a small hex screw, disconnect this screw to remove the transmission rod.
Now you are ready to move below the car. This are the things you must do in this area:
Disconnect the large S hose from the Oil tank, disconnect the hard Oil line that is attached to the oil cooler, disconnect the two heater exchanger hoses, next disconnect the starter connections, move the the clutch assembly, disconnect the helper spring, the clutch cable, and the U shaped spring. Move to the very back of the transmission, disconnect the reverse light swith, you'll need some pointed tip pliers and a screw driver, you'll find a black rubber boot at the end, put boot aside, and remove these two wires. Now look to the right and look for ground strap that is connected to the transmission, you need to remove this strap too. Now you are ready to disconnect the CV joints from the transmission, you need to remove 6 hex bolts from each side.
Now you are ready to remove the top two bolts that hold the engine, they are located at each corner on the rear of the engine, disconnect the stabilizer bar, and remove the two bolts that hold the transmission. I think this is pretty much what you need to do. I hope this helps.
Before you start, I recommend you buy the highest lifting capacity jack you could afford, a set of jack stands, a set of 4x4, a cart to place the engine ( try finding one that is open from one end and constructed from steel so you could easily remove the jack from the engine and place it on the stand.
This is what I did, I place a cart right below the engine, the cart is open from one end with metal on the edges and open from the middle (Like a U shape) Once the cart is below the car, slide the jack from the open space on the cart. As the engine came down, I rested the engine from the heat exchangers on the cart, then I was able to remove the jack easily. Then I grab a long 4x4 block, place it right in the middle of the car, near the the stabilizer bar. place right on the edge of the subfloor perpendicular to the location of the wheels. You should be able to raise the car very high this way. Once you raise the car, you should be able to slide the engine out with the cart.
Regards
Louis
#9
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Thanks guys, I never even thought about taking the egine out and then raising the car fully to get out. Thanks.
Is it possible to just take the Transmission out without the engine?
Is it possible to just take the Transmission out without the engine?
#10
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David,
My '80SC engine and transmission are currently removed. Bentley and 101 Projects are extremely valuable, both omit bits of vital information that the other one explains. Just some of my own pointers.
1. Don't be afraid of the task. It's really a lot of fun, and quite an accomplishment. (I've done this a number of times)
2. Take your time. Be patient!!!!!
3. Have plenty of red rags, paper towels, and latex gloves, WD-40, liquid wrench, etc.
4. Use the proper tools. You need a good wrench set, socket set, hex set, large adjustable wrench (oil lines can be a #@&^), rubber mallet, jack stands, jack, and a friend to help. If your going to replace the clutch you need a special 12pt 12mm hex head socket to remove the flywheel. In the catalogs there around $30, but Napa has one that fits in a 1.2" socket for $6.99.
5. Plan ahead as to where and how your going to store you engine when its removed from the vehicle.
6. Be prepared to clean your engine - it is probably the most tediouos and dirty part of the task, but the results will make you proud.
7. And above all,be patient and "...have fun..."
My '80SC engine and transmission are currently removed. Bentley and 101 Projects are extremely valuable, both omit bits of vital information that the other one explains. Just some of my own pointers.
1. Don't be afraid of the task. It's really a lot of fun, and quite an accomplishment. (I've done this a number of times)
2. Take your time. Be patient!!!!!
3. Have plenty of red rags, paper towels, and latex gloves, WD-40, liquid wrench, etc.
4. Use the proper tools. You need a good wrench set, socket set, hex set, large adjustable wrench (oil lines can be a #@&^), rubber mallet, jack stands, jack, and a friend to help. If your going to replace the clutch you need a special 12pt 12mm hex head socket to remove the flywheel. In the catalogs there around $30, but Napa has one that fits in a 1.2" socket for $6.99.
5. Plan ahead as to where and how your going to store you engine when its removed from the vehicle.
6. Be prepared to clean your engine - it is probably the most tediouos and dirty part of the task, but the results will make you proud.
7. And above all,be patient and "...have fun..."
#11
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hi, um, sorry to do this here but i'm trying to get my user number to retrieve the contents of a post i made a while back (for which using the search feature by keyword hasn't seemed to work).. so i'm just replying to the topmost post on the 911 board.. plz ignore, i apologize for the interruption. thx.
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