Peter Zimmermann

You're more than welcome! Good luck with it, I hope it turns out to be a good one...
Pete

SuperSport

Welp, the W2 911 is a little doggy. Needs clutch cable work, electrical work, front brake rebuild, possibly MFI rebuild (leaks), new airbox assembly etc. I called off the PPI even before they did the leak down because of the stuff they were finding. Unless I can get this car for next to nothing, I am going to walk.

What does an MFI rebuild run anyway? I know there is a guy in S.F. that is supposed to be guru.

Doug&Julie

I'll get jumped all over for saying this...but I hate the MFI. When it runs right, it's great, but I've never had a more tempermental injection system than on my '72. I think, in the many years we actually owned that car, the motor ran well for one summer. ..then I pulled it and sold it, with plans to replace it with a 3.0 CIS or 3.2 Motronic EFI.

...of course, that doesn't answer your question. You could replace it with carbs!

Sorry to hear about the PPI. But that was probably money well spent.

JCP911S

Doug, heretic...

Doug&Julie

JCP911S

Pacific Fuel Injection is usually the recommended place for MFI rebuilds.... in Doug's defense, if the MFI is not set up properly, it can be difficult... MFI pump rebuild can run over $800 and that is just the start if the system is really gone, which in a 30-year old car it is likely to be.

Alot of owners just didn;t spend the $$$ it takes to get it right.... so most cars you are likely to buy will need some serious work... but a set of carbs will run you easily twice as much and probably not work as well overall.... just another free opinion

Doug&Julie

And to be fair and balanced, many people LOVE the MFI...and think it's the greatest gift to motordome. (When it's sweet, it IS sweet!)

Just giving you my personal experience...

IanUK

Since the MFI was rebuilt on my 73E it has run faultlessly and I am a massive fan. The only downside is the fuel consumption - you can almost see the needle dropping when driving hard!

Ian.

real550A

SS- Look for rust behind the engine sound pad, in the door latch panels, battery boxes, front suspension mounting points, jack points, etc. These are some of the most vulnerable spots on the early cars, and are easy to get a "feeling" for. -Mike

r911

& pull out the headlights and R taillights and look there too...

door latch panels -- look at the inside of the wheel wells and "up under"...