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What is excessive oil leakage?

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Old 05-18-2005, 12:42 AM
  #16  
Steve W
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Sounds like the left and right cam oil lines. The hoses harden, shrink, and need replacement every 5 years or so.
Old 05-18-2005, 11:22 AM
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afinepoint
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[QUOTE=Edward

Can you take a pic of the area where you see the oil leaking from? Now I'm really curious

Edward[/QUOTE]

I'll what I can do.

Steve, the left side of the engine is dry in the same area. Although leaks can be tricky. It could be traveling farther before hitting the ground. If it is the hoses we need to get the word out.

Reg
Old 05-20-2005, 12:48 AM
  #18  
afinepoint
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I agree they don't have to leak but it was my understanding that due to the clearances of an air cooled engine they are more likely to leak. The engines operate over a wider temperture band than water cooled so surface are allowed to move more and to do this they can't be as tight.

Synthetic oil will probe these areas and so the same engine which might not leak without synthetic may leak with it. The leakage may be "normal" for the design of the engine so long as it is not excessive. Thus the title of my topic.

Reg

Edward sorry for the poor english. In response to your request for photos I meant to say, "I'll see what I can do".
Old 05-20-2005, 10:30 AM
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Alan G.
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There are alot of places that can leak. When the oil gets blown around and runs down the case it is hard to know where (for sure) the culprit is. i have had my engine out twice and replaced all the known seals, hoses, gaskets and it still gets some drool.

I track my car pretty hard, and that sure helps it spring leaks.
Old 05-21-2005, 05:34 PM
  #20  
afinepoint
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Originally Posted by Alan Goettel
There are alot of places that can leak.
I track my car pretty hard, and that sure helps it spring leaks.

Mine must be small. Like I said the tech inspectors at the garage mentioned it the ones at the track didn't.

Reg
Old 05-30-2005, 07:58 PM
  #21  
afinepoint
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Edward

Pictures on the way. Too large to attach for now. I have to cut them down then I will post.

Also, the leak has suddenly worsened and I found a loose bolt sitting below the fan. I think the source of leakage is making itself known. More to come.

Reg
Old 05-30-2005, 08:15 PM
  #22  
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I would be suspicious of the from main seal and notorios oil sensor O ring.
regards,
Steve
Old 05-30-2005, 09:51 PM
  #23  
afinepoint
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Edward,

Here are the pictures. In the center of the first a pencil points to the tubing under the right side of the AC compressor. The upper right corner of the second shows the tubing as it appears from under the compressor's left side. This area is where I first saw the leak after cleaning the engine.

A section of rubber hose is fitted in the middle. In the top photo you can just see the flaring in the tube to the left of the pencil where the hose begins.

I will remove the entire AC system starting with the compressor when I get time. I hear it helps with maintenance.

You can see the loose bolt to the bottom of the second picture. Does it look familiar to anyone?

Most of the oil in the photo (and now on the garage floor) was not there before the bolt appeared..

Reg
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Last edited by afinepoint; 05-30-2005 at 10:09 PM.
Old 05-31-2005, 10:22 PM
  #24  
Marv
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Originally Posted by afinepoint
I agree they don't have to leak but it was my understanding that due to the clearances of an air cooled engine they are more likely to leak. The engines operate over a wider temperture band than water cooled so surface are allowed to move more and to do this they can't be as tight.

Synthetic oil will probe these areas and so the same engine which might not leak without synthetic may leak with it. The leakage may be "normal" for the design of the engine so long as it is not excessive. Thus the title of my topic.

Reg

Edward sorry for the poor english. In response to your request for photos I meant to say, "I'll see what I can do".
The car didn't come from the factory leaking.

With age everything dries out, shrinks, or deteriorates.

Leaks eventually build up dirt that forms a sludge and traps heat. You can continuously clean your engine or you can just fix it when it becomes too much effort to keep the engine clean. I have been there and done that and I don't like oil on the outside of the engine. It belongs on the inside.

Marv
Old 06-01-2005, 10:13 PM
  #25  
afinepoint
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Thanks Marv,

I found where the bolt goes. Unfortunately it has nothing to do with the leak.

My concern now is the increase in the leak. It was not gradual. Things were fine after getting back from the track. I have removed the AC compressor and base and cleaned that area of the engine. The oil is fresh.

The tubing actually tees with a small line diving beneath. The compression fitting to the left has been tightened.

The engine will be started and I will watch for oil. It really looks to be in that area. I will keep digging.

Reg
Old 06-01-2005, 10:35 PM
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It would be very helpful to include the year/model of car and/or motor, modifications, etc., and your location so that we can help you.
regards

Last edited by rbcsaver; 06-02-2005 at 08:37 AM.
Old 06-02-2005, 09:33 AM
  #27  
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Reg,
I noted some small dents/damage to the oil line in the picture you posted. I would investigate the back side of this line with a small mechanics mirror. I also don't think that this line should rest on the engine because of metal on metal rub with vibration.

I am much more suspect of your right side tensioner oil feed line. Can't see it in this pic, because it is under the AC bracket. The early 3.2 is notorious for these breaking do to motor vibration. Usually, it's the left side that breaks. I went through 2 left sides over 5 years and unfortunately they involved track days. Porsche did come out with an upgrade kit that involves applying small metal clamps, rubber bushings and brackets. The left side is much easier to install. The right side involves muffler, AC bracket and some other parts to be removed. I also replaced the motor mounts in my 84 and have been problem free since with these two lines.
regards,
Steve
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Old 06-02-2005, 05:39 PM
  #28  
afinepoint
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Originally Posted by rbcsaver
It would be very helpful to include the year/model of car and/or motor, modifications, etc., and your location . . .
1984 Targa 3.2L with 103,000 miles located in Richmond, VA. No modifications I know of.

This should be the source. There is really nothing else in the area to leak. .

This weekend will involve running the engine and leak checks. I can see more now that the AC compressor and base plate are off. The line does not touch the engine.


Reg
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Last edited by afinepoint; 06-02-2005 at 06:21 PM.
Old 06-02-2005, 11:17 PM
  #29  
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Reg,
I highlighted the area where the tensioner oil lines "tend" to start leaking. With the motor running you should see an active leak becasue of the pressure.
As I said before, usually the left goes first. If it is them, I would replace both. Even if they are not the source you should probably replace them with as many miles as you have ***AND ***install the anti-vibration clamp kits. I is not an expensive project , will take you a few hours, most for the right side, and it will save you from a potential massive oil leak if one does crack. Right side of my 84 started to leak at a Watkins Glen DE once of mine started to leak. Took 16 added quarts of oil, one every 15 minutes to get me home from the track. To top it off a woman backed her huge pickup/construction grade trailer hitch over the bonnet and front bumper.
regards,
Steve
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Old 06-03-2005, 06:57 AM
  #30  
afinepoint
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I will keep a close eye on the lines while running the engine. The oil was pooling in the upper left of the picture.


Originally Posted by rbcsaver
Reg,
Took 16 added quarts of oil, one every 15 minutes to get me home from the track.
Steve

Exactly why I am hunting for a trailer and why I am hesitant to push it at the track.
My wife came to my last track event and is fully aboard with me getting one. She is even clipping classified ads.

Reg


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