rbcsaver

I'm not sure which pic you are referring to regarding the upper left. It could also be somethnig minor like the oil temp sensor. There is thin copper washer on there as I recall. Make sure the sensor is torqued to correct fittings.
regards,
Steve

afinepoint

The last.

Reg

rbcsaver

I would clean the motor with a citric cleaner hot H2O.
Then once it dries, idle in the driveway and watch closely for the leak to show itself.
regards,
Steve

afinepoint

The leak has been found. It comes from the compression fitting on the left side. The rate is about one drop every 1-2 minutes at idle. I tightened the fitting to slow it but since the nut feels at max torque I stopped rather than damage the line.

As best I can tell it is coming from the right side of the nut where the line enters. If the threaded side is leaking it is much smaller than the tube side.

FYI all lines are dry on the left side of the engine.

Replacing the lines will go on the to-do list.

I guess this thread can be put to bed. I will revive it when the job is done.

Thanks to all for the help.

Reg

P.S. I signed up for membership a couple days ago. After all of the help I have gotten here it felt right.

rbcsaver

Reg,
Congrats on finding it and membership. Glad to be of help, as I too have been helped in the past, and I know in the future too. I assume that it is where I put the yellow high light on the cam tensioner oil line pic. I'm sure that it is NOT coming from the threads but a crack where the line enters at the nut. When you get it apart you'll see. Constant engine torgue/vibration is what cracks these. It will get worse so don't drive too far from home and watch your oil levels. As I said previously, you should replace both and get the anti-vibration upgrade kits. You may want to consider replacing your motor tranny mounts too, as this could indicate they are worn. Attached is a pic of one of the brackets for the left side highlighted in yellow.
Post again if you need help on this or if you can't find the part numbers I can pull my old paperwork. I'm recovering at home with a brken humerus so can't do much. Pics were about my limit for now.
regards,
Steve

Edward

Good deal, Reg! Glad you found it!

Edward

Pedro356C

Excessive oil leak:

03/24/1989
The Exxon Valdez hit rocks in Prince William Sound spilling some 240,000 barrels of crude oil onto Alaskan shores.

Acceptable oil leak:

A few drops every morning under the car are part of the vintage Porsche experience...

Take care...

afinepoint

Steve,

Actually it is the nut to the left of your highlighted picture. The one you highlighted is in the "6" o'clock position. The leaking one is at the "9" o'clock position- to the far left of the photo.

In any case I will replace the entire line.

Thanks Edward. Interesting analogy Pedro.

And Steve take it easy this weekend. Let yourself heal up.

Reg

rbcsaver

Remember to use flair nut wrenches and don't overtighten the compression fittings

regards,
Steve

kens911

you know mine has no oil leaks at all but the ac compressor leaks around the clutch. the resulting mess is ac oil all over the enigine compartment and sucked into the fan . you mentioned oil under the compressor that might be part of your problem.

afinepoint

Steve,

Did you replace the hollow bolts for the lines or reuse the old ones with new gaskets?

Reg

rbcsaver

Reg,
The first time on the left side, I re-used the hollow nut and two (2) new washers. The 2nd time the line broke , the hollow nut also snaped while re-tightening. I would absolutely use new washers (2 required per bolt) and re-use the same hollow bolts unless they are damaged. Use care to not over torque on re-install. Lot of good pics of all the components on the Pelican site, including the brackets. Look under chain tensioner oil lines. Don't know if any of the Rennlist sponsors carry the stuff, but always good to support them. Do NOT use any thread adhesives on the bolts.
regards,
Steve

afinepoint

I priced out the parts on Pelican today. <$100 to do everything. I will order tonight. I looked on Rennsport but no luck.

The bolts look good but who knows how stubborn they will be. Put the bolts in dry. Got it.

Out of curiosity for prices I called the "foreign car" garage where I get my tech inspections . - $470 to do the job. $350 of which is labor! And they stay in business and busy.

I need to own a garage!

Reg

rbcsaver

It will take you a little time under the car for the right side, but waaay duable on a saturday with time left for a test drive. That's why I bought a lift this last year. Holler if you need any guidance.
regards,
Steve

afinepoint

Right side is done. Dampener installed. You can tell the lines to the chain tensioners are an afterthought/fix by the installation. What a pain.

Engine top and bottom recleaned. No leaks after a couple of trips around town. I will see what the morning shows. I now believe the original leak was caused by the compression fitting on the line leading down to the chain tensioner. It was not tight enough. I went ahead with the job as preventive maintenance. The left side is for another day.

What are the torque specs for the the hollow bolts?

I did the test drive with the muffler off since I had to cut the bolts. Though loud I like the resonance. Farther down the road is a Monty muffler.

Reg