glenncof

Generally I don’t replace anything until necessary. I came across this project prior to replacing struts which may require alignment.

1985 Porsche 911 -155K miles, one tie rod end replaced at 36K, other was factory

Note: Stock tie rods have rubber bushings and these were 19 years old.

P/N: 930 347 031 01
Cost w/shipping: $118

ASSUMING your front end alignment is good, I followed this procedure to avoid re-alignment. First note the position of your steering wheel while driving straight. You will match the length on new rod to old rod one side at a time.

1) Raise vehicle on both sides, I use 4x4 wood blocks as stands
2) Remove one wheel.
3) Remove rod end from steering arm. I used bottle jack and hammer.
4) Remove skidpan (4 bolts) but not anti-sway bar.
5) Remove spring/band around “outer” portion of boot with small screwdriver. This plate locks the rod to the rack/pinion assembly. Mark position of locking plate on threads with white touch-up paint.
6) Slacken this plate. I used small pipe wrench set to 1 ¾”.
7) Unscrew tie rod (by hand).
8) Remove old boot but leave inner spring/band on rack/pinion for reuse.
9) Match new rod to old one (see below)**
10) Install new rod using high strength (Permatex red) Locktite. Tighten with vice grips.
11) Install boot on rack/pinion.
12) Rotate the rod assembly to get alignment between tie rod end and steering arm. Install tie rod end into arm, tighten, and install cotter pin.
13) Tighten a plastic strap (not provided) around outer portion of boot.
14) Replace skidpan bolts without skidpan.
15) Take a short test drive. If the angle of your steering wheel changed there was a error that must be corrected. (( FYI - On one side I made an ¼” error (4 turns) which caused a shift of about 40 degrees on the steering wheel. I did not mark locking plate position but estimated from the rust.))
16) If all is well, replace second side with skidpan.

** Matching new rod length to old one
a) Lay old & new rod (w/o boot) next to each other and angle new rod (including special spacer) to match old.
b) Carefully measure each one and adjust new until matching old. The key will be to get the locking plate to the original position, I used the rust on threads. ((My final driver side was 12 ¼” and other was 12” exact, for reference.))
c) Tighten locking nut by hand, and don’t move it during next operation.
d) Remove tie rod end, slip on new boot, and replace end. ((It is much easier to match length without boot in place.))
e) Tighten locking nut on tie rod end.
f) Lay old/new rods side by side and do a final check on the length of new rod. Don’t forget to include the special spacer/washer on new rod.


Results: Steering wheel straight and no drift at highway speeds. Steering feels more precise at slower speeds and has less vibration issues at higher.

Bill Gregory

Turbo tie rods was a great upgrade for my 911SC. Every time I turned the steering wheel, I appreciated how much more crisp and direct the steering was over stock.

JCP911S

No brainer. the stock tie rods are junk and can bind up when they get old.

pjc

I don't believe there is any benefit using the Turbo rods with standard suspension. Lots of benefits if the suspension is lowered because the stock items do not work well at the increased angle and bump steer starts to become noticeable.

PJC

JCP911S

pjc... I have an 84 Carrara with box stock everything.... believe me it makes a difference.

pjc

Sorry guys, tried both and with sound stock parts could not detect a difference. This subject crops up again and again - lots of threads - most expert opinion from recognised sources say the same thing - no benefit. Guess we are all entitled to have a view, thats what makes the forum so interesting!

PJC

Bill Gregory

Would you please cite the expert opinion names that says that there is no benefit.

g-50cab

Yeah, I will disagree with you here too...

glenncof

Bump steer results from lowering since it changes geometry and is corrected with bump steer kits (links) to get the tie rod level again. (my understanding)

On my 1995 I have BF Goodrich tires, second set. In the final 1/3 of their life BFG's get the shakes when first jumping to highway speed, after 30 seconds of warm-up it stops. The turbo rods almost eliminated this.

A friend of mine races (stock engine but everything else goes class) I looked under his recently purchase race car. Yep, turbo rods.

I'll agree "new" rods of either type will probably be same (clarification - for street, I'm not racing). But one of mine was 19 years old and had 157K on it. Also had cracked rubber grease seal. If you do just tie rod "ends" on original I'll guess it's $50. Replacing the ends does not replace the rubber bushing.

(Also fresh tie rod ends could certianly help vibration issues.)

rbcsaver

I upgraded to the Turbo Tie rods also, about 2 years ago. Huge difference. My 2 cents on a few points.
(1) It is extremely hard to compare the two lengths so that an alignment is avoided. Make a fist and flex it towards your forearm. This is ridgid position of the rubberized OEM tie rod is after years of service, compared with the flexible metal ball-joint design of the turbo tie rod. (2) I don't know that I would use or even any Locktite material. The ring will hold it tight..heck it took a 3 pound mallet and cold chisel with mutch pounding..no WHAILING, to get the first one off. (3) How in the world can a rubberized joint be as responsive as metal on metal, pjc? It can't for the same reasons that rubberized motor/tranny mounts are extremely different from all metal ones.

Jeremy, that looks like a lot of rubber and really cool. What tires/sizes, wheels & offsets, rolled lips, etc.? Again very nice pic and car.
regards,
Steve

glenncof

rbcsvaer, you are right about the flex. This why I indicated adjusting the flex to match the rods and the procedure of matching length without boot in place. Very hard with boot in place. Of course you must measure with same position.

I did not consider <at the time> about straightening the flex prior to measure/adjust. Wanted to keep variables to a minimum.

I've done this process with tie rod ends several times with always good results on a number of vehicles. Usually without any adjustment. Only adjusted here since "I" did not mark initial position of locking plate and mis-judged by the rust. It was apparent when I initially got in the car and knew the extra length on one side. I went back to the rod and re-examined, saw my error.

My guess is you need to be within 1/8". Some mechanical engineer can calculate what this translates to alignment degrees.

r911

Well, I haven't seen any expert opinion posted yet....

I will say that it is not valid to compare new turbo tie rods to old worn regular ones -- that conflates two variables. Anybody interested could put on new regular tie rods, drive the car then swap and see. A double blind test would be even more useful.

Or you can do what I did a few years ago - just put on the turbo ones and happily drive the car.

Alan Herod

Disagree - Not expert opinion; however, subjective evaluation of numerous stock student cars at relatively low speed in all stages of repair. I generally only drive students cars if they are new to track events, they are relatively new to track events and have never driven the track, or they have any level of experience and ask. I believe you can tell the difference in normal street driving.

r911

Alan - the problem is what difference can you feel? The difference between old (worn) and new? Or between new turbo ones and new non-turbo ones? That's why people need to make the right comparision.

rbcsaver

"Feel" is often so subjective. It just makes sense that a steel to steel interface, as in the TT rods has got to be more sensitive with direct inputs than one with a rubber interface. Seems to be a no brainer
guys. Plus, anything that becomes permanently flexed with use (could be 6 mos, a year, 10 or 20 ????)
has got to be counter effective to steering response.

Still waiting for the"expert" references that pjc claims in his post.
regards,
Steve