need help with BROKEN HEAD STUD
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I have a 1981 911SC. I have one broken head stud on the exhaust side of cylinder 6. The engine has 155,000 miles. The engine sometimes makes a pinging sound under load. I'm on a limited budget at this time, and would like to put off a rebuild. What options do I have? If I continue to drive the car, will I do more damage? If I elect to just replace the head studs (all 24), what can I expect to pay?
TODD
1981 911SC
TODD
1981 911SC
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Todd,
If you choose to drive it you possibly run the risk of burning a hole in the head sealing surface and I have seen some cases where the other head studs have broken as well. We see this all the time. In fact I finished an SC recently that broke 3 headstuds on one bank. Not a fun time and I really felt bad for the customer. If you take it down to fix are you planning on freshening up the whole motor? If you are just going to do the studs I would recommend waiting until you are ready to heads and all. In this case the cost is hard to come up with. I recommend steel studs or ARP or Raceware. The steel versions cost about 200.00 and to go down and get them out is about 2K, and that is if the head stud doesn't have to be cut out. Usually you can weld a washer and nut to the stud and remove it. Damn dilvars!
FWIW we are having a 20% sales on engine builds if you are handy and can pull your own motor. <img border="0" alt="[jumper]" title="" src="graemlins/jumper.gif" />
If you choose to drive it you possibly run the risk of burning a hole in the head sealing surface and I have seen some cases where the other head studs have broken as well. We see this all the time. In fact I finished an SC recently that broke 3 headstuds on one bank. Not a fun time and I really felt bad for the customer. If you take it down to fix are you planning on freshening up the whole motor? If you are just going to do the studs I would recommend waiting until you are ready to heads and all. In this case the cost is hard to come up with. I recommend steel studs or ARP or Raceware. The steel versions cost about 200.00 and to go down and get them out is about 2K, and that is if the head stud doesn't have to be cut out. Usually you can weld a washer and nut to the stud and remove it. Damn dilvars!
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Sanchez,
I was also in a very similar situation when I found out a broken cylinder head stud (Dilavar) in my '78SC with only 80K miles. My primary objective was to fix the problem at minimal cost. So it meant that most of the works were done at home except for some unforseen event.
If you are a DIY person, you could save a lot for your cylinder head studs replacement. The lower cylinder head studs are not easy to remove/loosen. You will need a good source of heat and special tool (optional)to remove the 12 Dilavar studs. I end up bringing the case to a machine shop to remove some of the stubborn studs.
At this point, there are so many options to do with your motor. Since you have 155K miles on your engine, I believe it's time to do the top-end over-haul.
Are you planning to do these works yourself? Keep us posted. Good luck.....
I was also in a very similar situation when I found out a broken cylinder head stud (Dilavar) in my '78SC with only 80K miles. My primary objective was to fix the problem at minimal cost. So it meant that most of the works were done at home except for some unforseen event.
If you are a DIY person, you could save a lot for your cylinder head studs replacement. The lower cylinder head studs are not easy to remove/loosen. You will need a good source of heat and special tool (optional)to remove the 12 Dilavar studs. I end up bringing the case to a machine shop to remove some of the stubborn studs.
At this point, there are so many options to do with your motor. Since you have 155K miles on your engine, I believe it's time to do the top-end over-haul.
Are you planning to do these works yourself? Keep us posted. Good luck.....