H2

I'm looking for a car but jumpy about one off eBay. I know there are shysters out there, speedometers being turned back, misrepresentations, etc. Also, you bid, you win...THEN THE FUN BEGINS...you have the car shipped to you (at a substantial fee usually...sometimes damaged in the process), or you go to the seller's site and have an inspection done...find out that the seller was lying or unaware of a serious problem and you're out your airfare, lodging, fee for PPI, and likely fighting to get your deposit back....and so on.

All this scares me off of considering eBay. Those of you who have done this, what's the best approach to buy off of eBay and cover yourself so you're not taken? Would waiting until the car is NOT sold then dicker with the buyer off line or? Or do you just roll the dice and hope you win?

Thanks,

Harvey

911Dave

Well, unless you buy the car locally, you're going to be out airfare, lodging, etc. regardless of whether you buy it on ebay or any other means. I'm a big fan of ebay. Obviously there's a little risk, but the important thing is that you get to see cars coast to coast that you otherwise would never know existed. Make sure the seller has good feedback and there are lots of good pictures and a thorough description. Forget about a PPI - once you've won the auction, you bought it. If you get there and you find that the seller misrepresented the car, then just leave and keep your money. I've sold 3 motorcycles and 2 cars on ebay, and I've bought one car. Every one was a perfect experience.

Dan Cobb

I've never bought a car from eBay, but I have made 4 automobile transactions over the internet during the past 7 years.
I sold a '53 triumph motorcycle to a guy in West Virginia. I sold a '77 Alfa Romeo Spider to a guy in Kansas City, a '73 Camaro to aguy in Las Vegas, & I bought a '66 Chevelle Convertible from a guy just north of Denver.
In every case except the motorcycle, the buyer flew to the destination and drove (or trailered in the case of the Camaro) the car back home. The motorcycle was shipped at the buyers' expense.
I can honestly say that every transaction was 100% legitimate and honest (on both sides).
The key was communication. LOTS of communication. With a network of fellow Porsche enthusiasts such as this, I think it would be difficult not to find someone close enough to take a quick look and make sure the car was even worth pursuing.
I can recall driving to Pacific Palisades (~45 minutes) several years ago to check out a '74 Carrera for a fellow list member. My description and accounts saved him airfare, time off work, and countless other expenses.
I would find out as much as possible about the car BEFORE putting any $$ into the deal. Make sure the VIN is clear with a Carfax report AFTER you have determined it to be worthy.
Confirm VIN, engine ID, and perhaps even trans serial # if the vehicle is high dollar.
Use this information and the resources here to ensure that what the car is representad as is accurate, then find someone to take real-eye look at it. Sometimes pictures can be deceitful.
Proceed with caution and don't get to eager to send $$ to someone in another state for a car you haven't even seen in person.
Make a long weekend trip if possible to check it out. There might be something worth seeing near the car.
Good Luck
+++

djantlive

It's a lot of work after your bid goes through. You'll really want someone you trust to check out the car or do it yourself.

You want to:
1. Check ebay feedback and history before bidding. Feedback must be good and items previously sold has to be on large ticket items. Other buyers leaving feedback should not be repeat buyers.
2. ensure title is clear, no lien, no accident -- car fax is essential. Insurance and dealer can be a good source of info.
3. if title is a company instead of individual, make sure verify the individual selling is an authorized agent of the company (lease company or bank loan officer etc) If title is individual, check seller's driver license to match name with title.
4. inspect car -- can be done by dealer, shop you specify, a friend or yourself.
5. transaction -- can be done by friend or yourself.
6. shipping -- seller's help is really helpful. Most shipper are door-to-door and seller should store car before truck picks up the car. Check shipper reputation and weigh insurance policy, service and price.

You are covered for $20k if you buy on ebay I think. If you are buying more expensive car, consider getting one with remaining warranty to avoid costly hidden repairs.

In the end, if you can buy local, that'll save you much time and worries. If you can't, do your homework and check out all the documentation to avoid a costly lesson.

theclaw

Don't be shy about emailing sellers prior ebay customers. You can get some more detailed feedback about seller this way than you can with the ebay feedback system. Although I bought my car locally the seller had plenty of ebay customers. I contacted them and their response was extremely favorable. I had a good gut feeling about the guy and the response I got from his customers verified it. Made my purchase experience that much better.

jeff

M491

You MUST do all the exact same things as you would if you bought out of the paper.

1) You have to have a PPI done before you buy the car.

2) You must run a carfax.

ebay does make it a bit more difficult because of the timing issues, and because how do you get a ppi done if you don't know if you've "won" the car yet?

Bottom line is this: I'd NEVER buy a 911 that costs any significant $$ without 1) Seeing the car in person, 2) having a PPI done, which includes at a minimum compression and/or leakdown and headstud check, and 3) a clean Carfax.

If you can accomplish all those things in an ebay transaction, fine. If not, I'd not buy the car.

justkickenit

As I mentioned in another thread, I purchased my car on E-bay and had no regrets - but you have to use caution. Definately have a PPI done by a reputable shop of your choice. The seller should have no problem with this. Call a neutral Porsche shop and explain the situation and then have the seller take the car there. Have the shop fax or email the PPi results to you directly. Make sure it has a clean history via carfax - I believe this will catch about 80% of attempted fraudulant activity. Have the seller send Hi res photos as low res can hide imperfections, which can lead to surprises when you finally see the car.

strupgolf

Ive bought 2 cars on e-bay. The first, a jaguar xj6 was just as described. Flew down, looked it over, and drove it back 1000 miles. Still have it and runs like it was new, {94}. The other, a porsche 911 was described as great, but I drove down to florida, with a trailer, looked it over, but not over good enough nor long enough. I still bought it because it was exactly what I was looking for. I had a few surprises when I got looking at it, electrical in nature, and some oil leaks, but they got fixed. I was like the previous person, I felt good about the car, so I bought it. It runs great, and Ive got lots of things I want to do to it over the next season. The carfax showed solid ownership, a repossesion, etc. but Im happy. I sold my BMW 1200 last month on E-bay, with no problems, I would do so again, but then Im not a guy who would screw anyone over for any reason in this kind of transaction. BTW, both cars did not sell during the bidding, so I called the owners afterward, something E-bay does NOT LIKE. Hope this helps and find you a good one.

H2

Here's a twist for you...a guy says that his eBay car has a NON-REFUNDABLE $2,000 DEPOSIT on the winning bid. So you'd be screwed going there and paying for a PPI, etc. and then finding something big wrong, and still being stuck for your travel expenses...plus the $2,000 non-refundable fee. I figure anyone who would require that HAS to be a shyster or perhaps, just, really naive. I'm not biting on that one.

Harvey

theasphaltgambler

I've bought several off of Ebay. I try to buy close enough to home so I can fly out, drive back. If I'm serious about commiting to purchase, I do all the 'leg-work' that a pottential buyer should do. Title search, PPI, additional pictures, a video of it starting, running. I look at the sellers feedback. I ask for a phone contact so we can speak one-on-one. I'll have a short list of questions to ask them, even though they may have already answered the same question in a previous email. You'd be surprised at how revealing actual conversation may be.

Regardless of how much the seller wants upfront and the balance thereafter. I ask the seller that if I'm the winning bidder would they accept 10% at close and the remainder when I pick the car up. I've never been denied. I have had one guy try to back out of the financial agreement, but then I emailed him a copy of his prior OK. All was good after.

911Dave

That brings up a point that I've never understood. Why do ebay listers always require such a big deposit? Don't they realize that it scares potential bidders away? $100 or $200 is plenty to hold the car until they pick it up. I routinely see $1k, $2k or more required. Ridiculous. I think a lot of listers do it just because they see others doing it. Fools.

theasphaltgambler

10% of the final sale price is reasonable. If I'm selling a car for $10k and the buyer only wants to give $200-300 for a deposit, I don't take them as serious buyers. The view changes as to which 'side' of the fence you're on. As a seller (in any market place) I always want the advantage where I receive the most money as quick a time frame as possible and I say as much in my listing. I am somewhat flexible to buyers with good feedback IF they email prior to the close.

As a buyer I want to pay the least possible and the least up front to protect my interest. Just basic business stuff. Until the end of the auction there are no rules. Just what the seller and buyer agree to before hand.

911Dave

I'm not sure I agree that a buyer willing to part with $200 no matter what isn't a serious buyer. Plus, 99% of the time, an ebay buyer has to travel from a long distance to get it anyway, so add the price of airfare, hotel, taxi, etc. to the $200 and I don't think anybody would bid unless they're serious.

Besides, as a seller, if the buyer doesn't come through, then you keep the $200, get a refund of your listing fee from ebay due to non-paying bidder, and list it again. No hassle at all. In fact, I would love it if I could just keep listing it over and over again while banking $200 each time.

If you want to be successful as a seller, you have to make the auction enticing to bidders. Big deposits that are required before the buyer can see the car do not make potential bidders feel trustful.

theasphaltgambler

A seller can always ask, it's up to the buyer what it is they are willing to commit to. As a buyer, other than the asking/reserve price I ignore the sellers 'sell'. I decide if that item is the right one for me and what I think I should pay. I sit back and watch the action until it gets to point where I think it may go my way. I then start email conact.

I always bid via Esnipe so I'm not in competition with myself, other sellers and they cannot 'see' me until the last 6 seconds.

smshirk

I won a bid on ebay. The seller gave three days to put up the deposit. It was about 400 miles so i drove there to check it out. It was a real dog. The seller had represented the car as very good condition. 2001 Boxster, had been repainted without sanding the original paint, leak that had rotted the carpet on right side. Front hood wouldn't close all the way. The interior was worn, several parts cracked or missing. Oil all over the bottom of the engine, tires didn't match and the rear window had a hole covered by duct tape. This was a new car dealership ( Chrevrolet). naturally I walked away and was only out my time and gas money, but this dealer intended to ship the car to an unsuspecting bidder. The description did guarantee a no fault walk away, refundable deposit if you showed up, but not if the car was shipped.

I would never put up a dime for a car on ebay until I had seen the car and checked it out. Unless you had someone locally you could trust/hire to do it for you. I really did not expect a new car dealer to misrepresent a car. I was way off base with that assumption. They didn't really give me much hassle about not completing the deal. They had not told me about the re-paint. Florida law requires all repaints to be identifed on newer cars, not sure of the age restriction.